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Discussion Starter #21
At least your recent photos don't have a finger in them.
I don't remember posting any photos with fingers but it is possible. When you get old enough that you are switching glasses between readers and distance 100+ times a day, sometimes you just say F it! It is what it is. :laugh:
 

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MotoXP Fairings experience

Can I please ask a bit more about the MotoXP fairings. They respond to email, but I've hit a language barrier.

You mentioned yours arrived with a chip and scratches. Was that a shipping problem, or did they get sent that way?
I asked them about the tail and was told it is one piece. How do you get to your diagnostic port? Did you cut an access port or does it have one?
Are you using the BMW Hp Datalogger (it is really a necessity to use RCK2 and the RaceECU on track)? If so is under the tail or exposed?

How did the fairings fit at the front? Did you keep the OEM stay at the front for the gauges or use a Tight Tails or other stay?

How do the fairings bolt up to the body? Did you need to fabricate any brackets?

I'm really keen on these fairings, but would love some more info.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Can I please ask a bit more about the MotoXP fairings. They respond to email, but I've hit a language barrier.

You mentioned yours arrived with a chip and scratches. Was that a shipping problem, or did they get sent that way?
I asked them about the tail and was told it is one piece. How do you get to your diagnostic port? Did you cut an access port or does it have one?
Are you using the BMW Hp Datalogger (it is really a necessity to use RCK2 and the RaceECU on track)? If so is under the tail or exposed?

How did the fairings fit at the front? Did you keep the OEM stay at the front for the gauges or use a Tight Tails or other stay?

How do the fairings bolt up to the body? Did you need to fabricate any brackets?

I'm really keen on these fairings, but would love some more info.
It was shipping. The box was pretty banged up.

I haven't had to access the diagnostic port during a track day. I'm using the Aim Solo DL. Others have routed it below the seat for ease of access. Otherwise it would be four screws that can be remove in a minute.

I'm using the stock fairing stay. I actually had the dealer install them. The estimate was 4 hours but it took 7. No instructions with the kit.

@BruceV or @skapan can answer any install questions. Here are some pix and comments on the install process.

http://www.s1000rrforum.com/forum/1952553-post1682.html

http://www.s1000rrforum.com/forum/1957402-post1701.html
 

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oz14, I've installed 3 sets of S1000RR fairings from Motoxpricambi. They always arrive in excellent shape, well wrapped. The tail is one piece, 4 bolts and it slides off to get access to the port. Because the front is not one piece like Armour Bodies it takes a bit more fiddling, but no big deal. Yes, use the stock birdcage if you want. I can install a set in 3 hours now, so don't be afraid. Great price for a great product.
 

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oz14, I've installed 3 sets of S1000RR fairings from Motoxpricambi. They always arrive in excellent shape, well wrapped. The tail is one piece, 4 bolts and it slides off to get access to the port. Because the front is not one piece like Armour Bodies it takes a bit more fiddling, but no big deal. Yes, use the stock birdcage if you want. I can install a set in 3 hours now, so don't be afraid. Great price for a great product.
What do you like about Motoxpricambi over Armorbodies? I was planning on getting front part of armorbodies, keep everything else (just like what CSS does).
 

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I saved myself a lot of guess work because Chris(skapan) had done 3 installs before me.

Chris gave me the heads up about the nose being the trick to the install - the snorkel is the key for alignment.

Get the snorkel right and the rest falls into place.

My kit came well packaged - the shipping box was double walled - all parts were excellent.

The kit does not come with instructions but for the most part where they have the locations for drilling is pretty good.

A tip Chris gave me and worked out well - use a step drill and start out drilling 1/8 inch holes and use some screws to hold everything together and see how everything fits/lines up.

If you like the fit then drill the holes to the correct size.

Here is a pic of my bike - almost done.

 

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z00 it was a simple choice for me. Armour Bodies in primer were about $150 less than Motoxpricambi painted in my choice of colour scheme. That's the main reason. If you want to go bushy and just put the front Armour Bodies on you still have to (should) paint it somehow. I guess it depends how you want your track bike to look. I've had enough of the rattle can and home garage paint jobs, I wanted something nice and motoxpricambi delivered. If making a simple bracket or figuring out how to fasten parts securely is not a skill that you (not you in particular) possess, then installing a set of fairing might be something you leave to others or get assistance to ensure you won't be a danger to others or yourself when you venture out on track. Strange things can happen when you get into that >10K area ! Bruce summed it up pretty well. Go slow, check twice and make sure the parts are secure.
 

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^ I ask because I found some decent deals on Armorbodies. I feel more comfortable using them simply because I inspected them up close when I was at CSS. I'm sure other fairings would work well if not better, but I also heard from my friends about taking hours and hours drilling and fitting fairings. I just wanted something that works without spending too much time installing them. I'm the function over form type, looking good is a nice to have, not a must have for me in a track bike.

Also, I want to keep my race seat (replaced OEM). Many track fairings require covering OEM seat area. So I cannot use my race seat anymore. Armobodies allow me to do that. Not sure what other options that leave me with.
 

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Also, I want to keep my race seat (replaced OEM). Many track fairings require covering OEM seat area. So I cannot use my race seat anymore. Armobodies allow me to do that. Not sure what other options that leave me with.
Isn't that the primary difference between Superbike and Super Sport? Super Sport still has the regular seat.
I have the HP race seat (which I really like) so I'm still not sure which way to go...
 

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Isn't that the primary difference between Superbike and Super Sport? Super Sport still has the regular seat.
I have the HP race seat (which I really like) so I'm still not sure which way to go...
I'm not sure, some vendors don't even put any extra details. Gotta go by the pictures or asking.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Finally wore out the old tires so I mounted the blue wheels with Pirelli slicks, SC1 front SC2 rear for a track day at Sonoma today.. The front has a new set of Brake tech Axis iron rotors 6mm.



It was also my first outing on the FKR 104 cartridges and Ohlins rear. At Sonoma, the track is always slick early. When I arrived it was 46 degrees F. I've seen so many crashes in the first 2 sessions here that I generally don't start going for it till the 3rd session. There was a really good article in this month's Road Racing World by the guy that looks after Nicky Hayden's tires. This article gave me pause as he recommended having the tires on warmers for 2 hours prior to hitting the track to heat soak the rims as well. He also talked about the necessity of using higher temps in certain conditions 195 vs 175. That said: Even going easy, it was obvious the Ohlins were far superior to the HP4 DDC. I found myself wondering if I was really riding Sonoma. Half the bumps that unsettled the bike just weren't there anymore. The base tune (sag/ approximate compression and rebound for my weight) was fine except for the "hard braking zones" of which there are 4. In those, the bike was unstable and the rear was doing the Marquez dance leaving me wondering if it would be on the ground when I needed to tip in. :rolleyes: It was like wrestling an alligator. After 4 laps in the 2nd session, I made a bee line for Dave Moss. I swear he spent 4 minutes max with me. I explained the problem, he took measurements, did his "bounce tests" and dialed in more rear compression, more front preload, compression and rebound dampening. I did have a zip tie on the forks which showed I was bottoming under hard braking. Improved 2 seconds the next time out and my PB by 3 seconds in the 4th session and I'm just scratching the surface. :grin2: Finally, the bike is giving me the feedback I need to tell me what it is doing. I had more fun in the 4th session than all the rest of my track days. Ohlins should have been my first mod. :wink2:

On a side note, the blue wheels actually had people asking if they could take a picture of the bike. That never happened with the black ones.
 

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On a side note, the blue wheels actually had people asking if they could take a picture of the bike. That never happened with the black ones.
Can I ask where you got those painted/coated? I have the HP4 Comp wheels, and recently purchased a set of HP Forged wheels from a 2016 bike with about 60 laps use for a great deal. I'm considering getting them powder coated in the HP4 Comp blue to match....
 

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@wfo439

Sexy bike!

People love colored wheels, I get asked about my red ones all the times.

How did you disable DDC after installing Ohilns? Kept cables plugged? Or did something with ECU?

What exact preload/comp/reb are you at now?

How do you like Sc1/sc2 slicks compared to what you had before?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Can I ask where you got those painted/coated? I have the HP4 Comp wheels, and recently purchased a set of HP Forged wheels from a 2016 bike with about 60 laps use for a great deal. I'm considering getting them powder coated in the HP4 Comp blue to match....
The wheels are BMW OEM blue forged just like the ones the came with the HP4 Comps.

@wfo439

Sexy bike!

People love colored wheels, I get asked about my red ones all the times.

How did you disable DDC after installing Ohilns? Kept cables plugged? Or did something with ECU?

What exact preload/comp/reb are you at now?

How do you like Sc1/sc2 slicks compared to what you had before?
DDC is not disabled. I have the error code and light just like everyone else that makes the switch.

Absolutely no idea what the current settings are. Jim at Catalyst Reaction did the base setup and Dave Moss dialed it in for Sonoma. I'll have to check and make notes before changing anything. T-Hill is next week. :smile2:

It's difficult to compare the tires directly as I was riding the DOTs with the DDC. MY impression was definitely stickier and worth switching. I plan to use the slicks from here on out. Nothing left to tweak on the bike. Now i need to get my ass to the gym so I can ride the full day instead of stopping at lunch. :rolleyes:
 

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DDC is not disabled. I have the error code and light just like everyone else that makes the switch.
You might wanna ask around about DDC error, my dealership techi said they can disable it in ECU.

After seeing Troy lap dudes with slicks and aftermarket suspension on a stock RR (K3s) with DDC, I'm keeping mine for now, spending the $$ on training/track days. My definition of fast has changed drastically since my 3 day training at Aragon. Stock bike is damn fast in the right hands.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
You might wanna ask around about DDC error, my dealership techi said they can disable it in ECU.

After seeing Troy lap dudes with slicks and aftermarket suspension on a stock RR (K3s) with DDC, I'm keeping mine for now, spending the $$ on training/track days. My definition of fast has changed drastically since my 3 day training at Aragon. Stock bike is damn fast in the right hands.
I asked and the answer I got was the error can't be removed via the BMW computer or RCK2.

I'm still happy with the decision. The DDC was talking to me in German. The Ohlins speak to me in English. For the first time it felt like I was riding the bike instead of the bike riding me. :laugh:
 

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I asked and the answer I got was the error can't be removed via the BMW computer or RCK2.
The first screen of the RCK2 specifically gives you the option to say the DDC has been removed.
I haven't done (may never do it), but according to the help in RCK2 by doing this you tell the ECU there is no DDC and I would expect no errors to be reported.
I have RaceECU + RCK2 so perhaps you need both, which would be a $$$ way to remove a code.
 
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