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My 2012 is set-up different than the service manual and the online instructions here. There is a rubber piece in between the two castle nuts and then a tab washer that goes over those (tab is long enough to go through both nuts). There is no way to put the 2010 service manual specified torque on the top one without messing up the rubber grommet thing.

Since that top nut didn't come off with much torque anyway, I ended up just tightening it down until it felt right and the rubber wasn't being messed up or popping out, then sliding the washer through the aligned grooves.

Anyone else have this set up when they did theirs?
This is one of the reasons I ditched my 2010/2011 digital service manual
and bought the official BMW 2012 CD. Well worth the $100.
 

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Just show me the way!
Been trying to find out how to transfer this copy righted DVD to my computers
:confused:
What have you tried so far? DVD Shrink worked well for me awhile back. I'm sure there are some more skilled forum members than I that could help out. PM me if you don't want to air everything out to the public.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
You wouldn't happen to have the p/n for it would you? If you order it online can you share where you purchased it?

TIA

88 313721

Ordered from Sierra BMW (Tom Lynn - [email protected]). Tom's a great guy, their parts manager. Tell him Donny sentcha
 

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Great thread , sometime back I had a minor ticking sound coming from the steering, took it to the dealer and they tightened the steering nut and the problem disappeared.
It seems it gets loose after time, I had a very very bumpy ride on a very bad road and I believe that must have caused it.
 

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Old fashioned spanner wrenchs work well also, they are cheap and one size fits most sport bikes (Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki, Buell anyway) since about 1984.
That should tell you how long I've had this one tool and used the same tool on more bike steering head stem lock nuts thAn just my own bikes.

Just another outlet for a easy tool to use. The only "problem", is you must remove the plastic tank cover. But then again, you don't have to worry about scratching it if the tool slips..!

Mike
 

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Has anyone had to replace a steering head bearing yet? I had mine torqued at 6000 miles and I just did it again at 16000, it was somewhat lose and I tightened it to 15Nm but I can still feel a clicking when I rock the forks up and down, I havent been able to ride it yet is we got snow on the ground but is there an issue that I am missing if I am still getting a clicking and the bearing is at the proper torque?
 

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... it is best if you use a 6 point socket so that it fits good on the nut and does not mar it...
Nice job on the instructions.

As an aside, the idea that six-point sockets are easier on fasteners is mostly a myth. Assuming the fastener is not badly rounded off, the fastener can't tell if it is being torqued by a six-point or a 12-pt socket - the socket contact points are exactly the same.

If the fastener is badly enough worn, then yes, a six-point will loosen something that a 12-pt might slip on, but this is an extreme situation.

For this application, it doesn't matter one whit.

- Mark
 

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My 2012 is set-up different than the service manual and the online instructions here. There is a rubber piece in between the two castle nuts and then a tab washer that goes over those (tab is long enough to go through both nuts). There is no way to put the 2010 service manual specified torque on the top one without messing up the rubber grommet thing.

Since that top nut didn't come off with much torque anyway, I ended up just tightening it down until it felt right and the rubber wasn't being messed up or popping out, then sliding the washer through the aligned grooves.

Anyone else have this set up when they did theirs?
Other than this being different, is the torque values same?

I only ask because i torqued the 1st nut on the triple to 15nm, but felt like i tightened down a bit? maybe it might've been loose? i do have 13k miles, track my bike, etc. then after, i placed the rubber grommet and literally only hand tightend it before placing the grooved spacer as the rubber spacer will get pushed out if you tighten down too much.
 
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