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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys... 2013, just installed full titanium akrapovic system with PCV running the show, no other mods.

Can any of you guys with track/racing experience give me your recommendations on the sprocket sizes front/rear and brands you chose and what improvements you got in low gear throttle response , and effect on top end? Longevity of your sprocket/chain setup? I'm in the advanced group of my local trackday org, and looking to add some punch on the low ends this year for the shorter, more technical tracks I ride.
 

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Sizes is something that depends on the track and rider combination. You can go -1/+1 and have almost the same wheelbase. You can use Gearing Commander to see what happens if you change your sprockets. I used Renthal sprockets and 520 DID ERVIII chain with more than 15000km and no problems. The weight reduction was 1kgr. You can search the forum for more opinions.
 

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'Sup Racer X!

If you're not racing, I wouldn't bother. For the very, very slight gain you will get, you will lose more in the longevity of the system.

Wanna save rotating and unsprung weight? Get lighter wheels
 

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Sizes is something that depends on the track and rider combination. You can go -1/-1 and have almost the same wheelbase. You can use Gearing Commander to see what happens if you change your sprockets. I used Renthal sprockets and 520 DID ERVIII chain with more than 15000km and no problems. The weight reduction was 1kgr. You can search the forum for more opinions.
Whoa, that Gearing Commander is a huge help. Are you using -1/-1? thanks!
 

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'Sup Racer X!

If you're not racing, I wouldn't bother. For the very, very slight gain you will get, you will lose more in the longevity of the system.

Wanna save rotating and unsprung weight? Get lighter wheels
Iam not really all that concerned about the weight savings, but I'll take it. Really wanted to see if its worth it for the gearing change. thanks!
 

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Iam not really all that concerned about the weight savings, but I'll take it. Really wanted to see if its worth it for the gearing change. thanks!
You can change gearing and keep the stock size for longevity.
 

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I run 17/45 with the 520 conversion. I personally love it for all around. The RPMs don't sing too high when cruising on the freeway, but gives it the pep it needs when accelerating!
Russ had done the 16/45 and that was too excessive for the freeway riding.
 

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Whoa, that Gearing Commander is a huge help. Are you using -1/+1? thanks!
I meant -1/+1. Yes I am using this gearing to my 2010 S1000RR. We have relatively small tracks and 300+km/h top speed is too much. Gearing commander is a huge help indeed. It is also very accurate if you input the correct numbers.
 

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I'd agree that it's not worth it with this bike. Tried a few combinations and ended up back at the stock ratios. Maybe with a 600 it helps, but the power band is wide enough with this bike that it has little overall effect.
You're exactly right.

To expand a little more, gearing advantages will not help the S1000RR until well over 120mph, and by then, the torque advantage from different gears is too close to make a difference. Unless you are coming off of corners below 7,000rpm in 1st gear, then gearing changes will not help you at all. The bike simply has too much power to effectively put down as it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the input so far fellas. A racer friend of mine just chimed in that he likes - 1 in the front and rear stock for a little bit more grunt of corners on some of the shorter tracks we ride. I might try it when it's time to replace chain and sprockets. I need to see how I like the new exhaust at the track first.
 

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Thanks for all the input so far fellas. A racer friend of mine just chimed in that he likes - 1 in the front and rear stock for a little bit more grunt of corners on some of the shorter tracks we ride. I might try it when it's time to replace chain and sprockets. I need to see how I like the new exhaust at the track first.
It's much better to go + in the back even though it's not as much change because the smaller radius in the front sprocket increases wear more.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's much better to go + in the back even though it's not as much change because the smaller radius in the front sprocket increases wear more.
I see what you mean. It's much easier and faster to change the rear sprocket too.
 

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I see what you mean. It's much easier and faster to change the rear sprocket too.
Right...BUT, unless you have very little miles on the set (maybe 1k miles or less), chain and sprockets should always be changed as a set as the chain pitch and sprocket pit wear together.
 

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Getting some OZ wheels and considering the 520 conversion to save weight. My 2016 is track only so not concerned with longevity and I don't race (yet).

Curious what the latest thinking is on the 520 conversion with stock gearing for our bikes and what brands are you using? Vortex has a new chain (EK) they are selling with their 520 kits now. Also hearing good things about the Renthal/DID combination. Insight appreciated.
 

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16/45. Kit was bought through motomummy. I buy the sprockets directly from England as that is the cheapest route. Search eBay for them


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 
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I run 17/45 with the 520 conversion. I personally love it for all around. The RPMs don't sing too high when cruising on the freeway, but gives it the pep it needs when accelerating!
Russ had done the 16/45 and that was too excessive for the freeway riding.
Curious how you did this? I just removed the 520 conversion for my '13 RR. Previous owner had the bike as a track only bike. I got the bike to commute. The bike had a 520 conversion with 16/46, stock is 17/45.
 

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Just put a 17 on the front and continue with the 520 chain unless it's worn out. That's assuming you have enough room to move the back wheel forward for the larger (slightly) front sprocket.
 
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