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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, It's been a week since my gorgeous lady has been experiencing gearbox problems. :(((((
For some reason shifting from 2nd to 3rd or vice versa is very difficult, by that I mean I depress clutch and push gear selector trying to downgear and it feels like it's the last gear however gear selector has more travel, exactly the same happens from 3rd to 2nd.

Other gears work perfectly fine using QS.

Took it to a local mechanic, he looked from outside and quoted 1200 to strip the box and estimated 2000 in repairs.

Considering my bike is used for recreational purposes I find it hard to fork out that much so I decided I could disassemble the gearbox and see if I could find issue myself.

Anyone had similar issues or knows about gearboxes and what could be wrong, highly appreciated.

To remove gearbox, do I actually need to remove the whole engine or can I access it after removing clutch plate cover?
 

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You do need to remove the engine for access to the transmission. Pulling the clutch cover and clutch will give you access to the selector shaft and shift star.

Also, be aware that a lot of the fasteners will need replaced because they are one time use only. Some, like the main case bolts, are kind of expensive.

If it is only the 2-3 and 3-2 shift, I would look at the shift forks. You would see wear and burnishing on the tips of the fork if it is bent.

There is a slim chance that the shift star/engagement pins could be the culprit. This could be checked by pulling the clutch. It would be worth checking this before pulling the engine.

There has been talk on whether you can remove the lower main case while leaving the engine in the frame. I never heard the final determination on whether this is possible though. Proper and best plan would be to remove the engine in my opinion. These bikes are too expensive to be cutting corners when doing maintenance and repairs.
 

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Heck of a lot easier to pull the engine and flip it upside down for gearbox extraction. Trying to do that in the bike would be NO fun. But I'd try some other things first. How many km on the motor, what oil do you use and how often is it changed? Have you ever found any large bits of metal on the drain plug magnet?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Heck of a lot easier to pull the engine and flip it upside down for gearbox extraction. Trying to do that in the bike would be NO fun. But I'd try some other things first. How many km on the motor, what oil do you use and how often is it changed? Have you ever found any large bits of metal on the drain plug magnet?
16k/km on the clock, last service was done 2 month ago at bmw dealer, I believe they used castrol oil 5w40, I also changed oil and filter like 5 month ago and I couldn't find any big particles on the drain bolt. I stripped the clutch side a week ago to see if it was an easy fix but couldn't find much and took it for a quote. This time when I drained oil it was also clean, hair thin shave of steel but again only a very small amount. no broken pieces.

Where can I find which bolts and nuts I need to purchase after I remove them?
 

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You would need the service DVD to find which bolts are single use. Perhaps someone on this forum could look this up for you.
I would definitely look at the selector shaft as others have suggested before taking it further apart.
 

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16k/km on the clock, last service was done 2 month ago at bmw dealer, I believe they used castrol oil 5w40, I also changed oil and filter like 5 month ago and I couldn't find any big particles on the drain bolt. I stripped the clutch side a week ago to see if it was an easy fix but couldn't find much and took it for a quote. This time when I drained oil it was also clean, hair thin shave of steel but again only a very small amount. no broken pieces.

Where can I find which bolts and nuts I need to purchase after I remove them?
Part # Qty Price Each Note

11147724485 9 $2.33 One time use bolts--clutch cover
11148527544 1 $23.06 Gasket--may be able to use original over again.
21217715324 1 $47.32 Collar Nut-Clutch--One time use.
23008528164 1 $263.11 Selector Shaft--This is new part #. BMW changed design.

You will also need a tool like this:

 

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This post got me to thinking, since the OP mentioned using a QS on the bike.

Does the frequent use of the QS on the newer RR's impose additional stresses on the transmission that are not present when using the clutch?
 

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This post got me to thinking, since the OP mentioned using a QS on the bike.

Does the frequent use of the QS on the newer RR's impose additional stresses on the transmission that are not present when using the clutch?
+1
I've heard a few words on this matter. Lately I've been using the clutch more from 1-3 in low rpm situations 5-6k and below. Past 7-8k I use qs. I would hope qs in general would not be detrimental to bike. Especially Bmw qs designed for bmw bike.

/TJ
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Part # Qty Price Each Note

11147724485 9 $2.33 One time use bolts--clutch cover
11148527544 1 $23.06 Gasket--may be able to use original over again.
21217715324 1 $47.32 Collar Nut-Clutch--One time use.
23008528164 1 $263.11 Selector Shaft--This is new part #. BMW changed design.

You will also need a tool like this:



Do you know why clutch cover bolts are single use only?
I used them when I put clutch cover back and seems to be holding oil inside. :)))
I wish there was a video how to strip engine and gearbox. I'd actually pay for it.
Still in 2 minds whether I should do it myself or take it to a mechanic.
All this bolts have specific torque requirements, are they actually crucial or hand tightening will do the job? :nerd:

When you say they changed design of the part, will that actually work on my bike?
 

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Do you know why clutch cover bolts are single use only?
I used them when I put clutch cover back and seems to be holding oil inside. :)))
I wish there was a video how to strip engine and gearbox. I'd actually pay for it.
Still in 2 minds whether I should do it myself or take it to a mechanic.
All this bolts have specific torque requirements, are they actually crucial or hand tightening will do the job? :nerd:

When you say they changed design of the part, will that actually work on my bike?

Single use. Did you torque them properly when you put them back in? These bolts stretch on initial torque.
 

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They are aluminum, and single use as has been said.

As far as I know (not claiming to be an authority) threaded fasteners stretch when torqued properly, which maintains tension to keep things together and the fastener from becoming loose.

The problem is when you overtighten them they snap because they've stretched passed their design limitations.
Soft metal screws like we're talking here, were spec'd in part to save some weight, but most likely to add to the dealer network's bottom line during routine service.

So in summary, you will most likely lose your cover, oil, or both if you've chosen to reuse those screws.
 

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To be fair, I don't think you even need to "over tighten" them on subsequent use for them to snap.
I've never heard of aluminium bolts being used on bikes but I guess it makes sense why they're used but if I ever take the clutch cover off, I certainly won't be reusing the bolts - if they were steel, then clearly it would be a different story . . .
 

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To be fair, I don't think you even need to "over tighten" them on subsequent use for them to snap
Exactly.

Back when the S1000RR was being unveiled ~ 2009, just about every scribe would remark about the weight saving measures BMW went to... Magnesium engine covers and aluminum bolts were often mentioned as examples. I think it was more to do with marketing, and to help dealers. In America it's warranted 3 years, other countries 2 years, for the most part bulletproof.

I call BS on weight being the true motivation. At introduction and even today, it carries a huge warranty, makes significantly more power than identical sized inline 4's, but they were fine with slapping almost 30 lbs of exhaust on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well hopefully I didn't over-tighten the bolts.

I was booked in for a service today at bmw service center but mechanics took sickies so they re booked me for Wed.

I rode my bike yesterday and I actually managed to master gear changing. Basically if I'm in the 2nd it wont change to 3rd, however if its 1st gear and I kick the shifter hard gear jumps to 3rd and than it's all fine. Same scenario with 3rd to 2nd, however if I'm in 4th pushing shifter down hard enough wil skip third and its sorted.
Fingers crossed it's only a minor problem.
 

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Well hopefully I didn't over-tighten the bolts..
Using the correct torque can and likely will snap the bolts when reused.

I was booked in for a service today at bmw service center but mechanics took sickies so they re booked me for Wed.

I rode my bike yesterday and I actually managed to master gear changing. Basically if I'm in the 2nd it wont change to 3rd, however if its 1st gear and I kick the shifter hard gear jumps to 3rd and than it's all fine. Same scenario with 3rd to 2nd, however if I'm in 4th pushing shifter down hard enough wil skip third and its sorted.
Fingers crossed it's only a minor problem.
This is a very specific and rather weird symptom but it strikes me, may well be specific enough to provide a pointer for the boys who know these gearboxes well. I'm rather intrigued to hear the response you get to this one but you rather imply that a single action of the shift lever is causing the shift star to rotate through 2 gears - I'm not quite sure how this is possible but clearly it is
:confused:
 

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16k/km on the clock, last service was done 2 month ago at bmw dealer, I believe they used castrol oil 5w40, I also changed oil and filter like 5 month ago and I couldn't find any big particles on the drain bolt. I stripped the clutch side a week ago to see if it was an easy fix but couldn't find much and took it for a quote. This time when I drained oil it was also clean, hair thin shave of steel but again only a very small amount. no broken pieces.



Where can I find which bolts and nuts I need to purchase after I remove them?

? no warranty ? should be able
to get some goodwill from BMW
 
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