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The KTM is a "Tinker Bike." Parts are pretty cheep (KTM Parts up to 15% off) and major modifications are easy to do (Super Duke 1290 ). Mine has been decated, ceramic coated headers/midpipe, Rottweiler Stage V conversion, PCV, custom map's, Akro slip on, etc. Very easy to work on/ modify. The KTM GT is a track bike that has been converted by the manufacture for street riding. The best way I can describe a KTM GT is like having a muscle car on two wheels. Hope KTM comes out with a 4 cylinder...

When we ride in the mountains the group uses Sena's to communicate. The Sena's have realy made a big difference. There has been a dramatic reduction in accidents, tickets, etc.

Sorry to be highjacking this tread...

Best,

Doc (y) (y)

 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
For instance, for the KTM, I'd pre-loaded some .gpx tracks to ride dirt around Durango, and while they showed up, if I picked it and tried to navigate to it, it flat refused to route me to the start using paved roads, and instead of that simply tried to route me in a straight line as the crow flies! WTF??? So, some of the routes I couldn't do simply because I couldn't GET to the start. And don't get me started on how useless Garmin BaseCamp is... (...one time, in BaseCamp... - LOL).
I'm a Basecamp hater too (it's unnecessarily hard to use), but most of the problem you describe above is mixing up the utility of tracks and routes. On road, you use routes because turn-by-turn instructions are suitable and very helpful. Off road, you display tracks on your devise and just roughly follow the track line based on where the terrain forces you to ride; under these conditions, turn-by-turn instructions are not suitable or helpful. Converting a track to a route only works when the track is on roads; if the track is off road or has off road segments, the resulting route for the off road segments will be on road segments that bypass the off road segments. By road, I mean anything defined as a road in the underlying data set, but the data sets are a whole other discussion. In the Durango case you describe above, I would create an 'avoid unpaved roads" route from where I am to the start point of the dirt gpx track; then I would kill that route and start navigating along the displayed dirt gpx track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
P.S. Navigators are Garmin products for BMW, but they're not just rebranded Zumo's. BMW adds/requires additional software that allows controlling it via the wiz wheel and buttons on the left handlebar. There are other minor differences, but being able to control the GPS, especially zooming, from the handlebar is very very helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The rear side monut fender comes from GIVI:

There are two parts to purchase: GIVI RM5138KIT specific install kit to mount Rear Wheel Side Mount Fender RM02 or RM01 on BMW S 1000 XR (K69); I used GIVI Rear Wheel Side Mount Fender RM01 (RM5138KIT REAR HUGGER FIT KIT ).

Yes, it works. Do not install if you do allot of wheelies...

Best,

Doc (y) (y)

Does it reduce/eliminate road spray on the back of the bike?
 

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BMW S1000XR 2022, Ducati Desert Sled 2018, Ducati MTS 950 2017(sold), Honda VFR 2007(sold)
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150 Posts
@JerryG how do you like the MRA X Creen. I'm about the same size as you (5'8", 30 inseam). I have a MRA vario on my Multistrada and love it, but sometimes I wish it provided MORE wind blocking off my arms, and less noise on my AGV Modular. I was wondering How the larger foiler was working for you.
 

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In a post about BMW's Carbon Fiber Engine Guards (S1000XR 2020 (K69) BMW original (carbon) crashbars...), I mentioned that I had decided against BMW's non-repairable oval shaped carbon fiber engine bars in favor of H&B's because I wanted to be able to sand and repair minor tip over damage and I wanted round bars so I could remount the OEM lights (via non-OEM mounts) and add highway pegs. This post describes and shows the result.

Protection bar installation was straight forward per H&B's instructions except one hole didn't quite line up perfectly (which the instructions warned might happen). When I backed out the other two bolts, I was able to start all three bolts and then tighten each one a little bit at a time until they were all properly tightened up. I did not have to cut away any of the fairing trim pieces; the H&B upper mounting tabs fit perfectly under the fairing trim pieces and thru the existing belly pan cut-outs. Like all engine bars I've seen for the Gen 2 XR, these bars required removal of the OEM fog lights. To remount them on the H&B bars, I used just the mounts from a cheap light set I found at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072L2SQMV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1. These mounts are plastic, which I'm fine with as I want the mounts to fail before significant damage to the lights. For high pegs, I used expensive, but infinitely adjustable, Ilium Highway Pegs 27-11BL from 27-100BL, VERSATILE HIGHWAY PEG, BLACK ANODIZE.

Pics follow:
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Jerry,
I’m getting ready to install the Hepco & Becker engine guards. I noticed the PDF instructions are vague and don’t list any torque settings. You wouldn’t happens to remember would you?
 
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