Good Info - glad I just read this.1. The fairing is just a wind deflector.
2. The brake line bolts to the bottom of the lower triple and blocks the headstem hole.
3. Advice for the tyre machine and carbon wheels. Set the pressure on the machine that locks the jaws to a lower pressure. Mine has a pressure regulator. Just enough to hold the wheel from moving. It doesn't need to be set the same as what you can on metal wheels. Be careful on the bead braker to ensure the valve and tyre pressure sensor is away from the bead braker or you will crush the sensor. Use rim protectors on the rim and make sure the head of the arm has a protector on it. When you remove the second bead (lower one) to remove the tyre completely, make sure you lift it up and over the tyre pressure sensor first, if you don't, then when you rotate the machine and peel the tyre off, it will rip the pressure sensor out of the rim. It easiest to do this part with the valve just past the head as it provides the most amount of room.
4. That is the axle slider form BMW. It is miss a cap on the outside with the M logo. The bolt just unscrews a little bit. The 2 pieces inside work like 2 ramps spreading out and lock it inside. If you loosen it, it should pull out easily.
5. You must remove the calipers because the wheel can't fit past them to pull it out. You will need to slightly twist the calipers on the discs to push the brake pads back. Get some tape and rags to cover the rim and calipers so you don't scratch things.
6. Don't loosen the left fork axle pinch bolts. It holds the spacer for the wheel and handles the wheel speed sensor alignment. No need to touch it.
7. Leave all pinch bolts loose when putting wheel and axle and calipers back in. You'll need to center the wheel prior to tightening these.
8. To make your life easy on the back wheel. Get a block of wood or something the right height to stick under the rear tyre. This will hold the wheel there when you take the axle out so the axle is easy to remove and the wheel doesn't drop down and get damaged on the rear caliper. Also when reassembling the rear wheel, don't forget wheel spacers. Also make sure rear caliper is aligned to the locator on the swingarm. It has a channel that it needs to locate on. If you don't do this correct, the caliper will lurch forward and snap the locator off the swingarm and cause damage or cause a crash.
9. Make sure to pump your brakes up once all said and done.
10. Check tyre pressure sensors don't come loose in the removal and re fit process. I have seen it before and air will leak out over night and you will get a flat. Piece of mind to check and tighten the pressure sensor and valve while tyre is off.
11. Use a spanner or rag to jam up the chain when fitting the rear wheel. This pulls the wheel forward against the axle blocks. Hold it there and tighten the rear axle nut.
Rear axle nut: 100Nm
Front axle: 50Nm
Front caliper bolts: 38Nm
Front axle pinch bolts: 19Nm x 3 times each, alternating