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2020 BMW S1000-RR Motorsport
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have some pit Bull stands on order but need to change my tires and they have not arrived yet at the shop. So I borrowed my mates Trackside stand for the rear and front triple tree. Looks like there is a plastic fairing I need to remove each time I use that? What is the purpose of that fairing?

I read that the older HP4 bikes had brake lines that get in the way there. Is that still the case for the 2020 and later models? Mine is a 2020.

Gonna try in the next day or so to remove the wheels and then change the tires. Should be fun as it will be my first time :). Got the tools and need to learn how to use them. I have found some OK videos on wheel removal and install, but any links to good content for this is appreciated.

Also anything to worry about with the carbon wheels I got on this bike? I have the No-Mar Classic HD tire changer and just got it built tonight so should be easy enough to avoid marring up the rims. Anyone have any experience with that and the Carbon wheels?

My bike also has some kind of front wheel sliders the previous owner installed so need to work out how those come out so I can get it the normal 24mm hex spindle. Have not tried yet but looks like I just unscrew that and it reveals the normal spindle? Pic attached.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle brake
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The other question I have is why we always need to remove the brake calipers? Just learning to wrench on my motorcycle but been building my own bicycles for years but the wheels always come off without removing any calipers. Just curious why that is the case for motorcycles? Is that just a street bike thing or do they do that every time they remove a front wheel on a MotoGP bike?

My primary use for this bike is to run it on the track :)
 

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2021 S1000RR M Sport
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1. The fairing is just a wind deflector.

2. The brake line bolts to the bottom of the lower triple and blocks the headstem hole.

3. Advice for the tyre machine and carbon wheels. Set the pressure on the machine that locks the jaws to a lower pressure. Mine has a pressure regulator. Just enough to hold the wheel from moving. It doesn't need to be set the same as what you can on metal wheels. Be careful on the bead braker to ensure the valve and tyre pressure sensor is away from the bead braker or you will crush the sensor. Use rim protectors on the rim and make sure the head of the arm has a protector on it. When you remove the second bead (lower one) to remove the tyre completely, make sure you lift it up and over the tyre pressure sensor first, if you don't, then when you rotate the machine and peel the tyre off, it will rip the pressure sensor out of the rim. It easiest to do this part with the valve just past the head as it provides the most amount of room.

4. That is the axle slider form BMW. It is miss a cap on the outside with the M logo. The bolt just unscrews a little bit. The 2 pieces inside work like 2 ramps spreading out and lock it inside. If you loosen it, it should pull out easily.

5. You must remove the calipers because the wheel can't fit past them to pull it out. You will need to slightly twist the calipers on the discs to push the brake pads back. Get some tape and rags to cover the rim and calipers so you don't scratch things.

6. Don't loosen the left fork axle pinch bolts. It holds the spacer for the wheel and handles the wheel speed sensor alignment. No need to touch it.

7. Leave all pinch bolts loose when putting wheel and axle and calipers back in. You'll need to center the wheel prior to tightening these.

8. To make your life easy on the back wheel. Get a block of wood or something the right height to stick under the rear tyre. This will hold the wheel there when you take the axle out so the axle is easy to remove and the wheel doesn't drop down and get damaged on the rear caliper. Also when reassembling the rear wheel, don't forget wheel spacers. Also make sure rear caliper is aligned to the locator on the swingarm. It has a channel that it needs to locate on. If you don't do this correct, the caliper will lurch forward and snap the locator off the swingarm and cause damage or cause a crash.

9. Make sure to pump your brakes up once all said and done.

10. Check tyre pressure sensors don't come loose in the removal and re fit process. I have seen it before and air will leak out over night and you will get a flat. Piece of mind to check and tighten the pressure sensor and valve while tyre is off.

11. Use a spanner or rag to jam up the chain when fitting the rear wheel. This pulls the wheel forward against the axle blocks. Hold it there and tighten the rear axle nut.

Torques:
Rear axle nut: 100Nm
Front axle: 50Nm
Front caliper bolts: 38Nm
Front axle pinch bolts: 19Nm x 3 times each, alternating
 

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When I pull rear wheels off I usually sit on the ground behind the bike, and put one foot under the tire to lift it a little while getting the axle out. Just wiggle up and down.

Use rope or bungee cords to hang your calipers from your bars while you get the front off and on so they're not banging into everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When I pull rear wheels off I usually sit on the ground behind the bike, and put one foot under the tire to lift it a little while getting the axle out. Just wiggle up and down.

Use rope or bungee cords to hang your calipers from your bars while you get the front off and on so they're not banging into everything.
Good to know, thanks! Once I get it done the first time it should be a whole lot easier the next time around.
 

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Good info and advice here all the way around. Mine is an original model (2010), so this info may be dated, but all my BMWs say to remove the speed sensors before removing the wheels as well. The speed sensors sit just a few angstroms away from the speed rings on the wheels and if you twist the wheels while removing or inserting the wheels on the axles (which is easy to do) you may break or damage them. It's a simple T-25 bolt that holds them in place, so just hang them and their wires up with the calipers. Takes but a few seconds. With out them (or even one), all your traction control and speed calibrations are toast until replaced.

@bennymx,... his "NoMar" is a manual tire machine, not a power operated one - but great advise. (y)
 
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1. The fairing is just a wind deflector.

2. The brake line bolts to the bottom of the lower triple and blocks the headstem hole.

3. Advice for the tyre machine and carbon wheels. Set the pressure on the machine that locks the jaws to a lower pressure. Mine has a pressure regulator. Just enough to hold the wheel from moving. It doesn't need to be set the same as what you can on metal wheels. Be careful on the bead braker to ensure the valve and tyre pressure sensor is away from the bead braker or you will crush the sensor. Use rim protectors on the rim and make sure the head of the arm has a protector on it. When you remove the second bead (lower one) to remove the tyre completely, make sure you lift it up and over the tyre pressure sensor first, if you don't, then when you rotate the machine and peel the tyre off, it will rip the pressure sensor out of the rim. It easiest to do this part with the valve just past the head as it provides the most amount of room.

4. That is the axle slider form BMW. It is miss a cap on the outside with the M logo. The bolt just unscrews a little bit. The 2 pieces inside work like 2 ramps spreading out and lock it inside. If you loosen it, it should pull out easily.

5. You must remove the calipers because the wheel can't fit past them to pull it out. You will need to slightly twist the calipers on the discs to push the brake pads back. Get some tape and rags to cover the rim and calipers so you don't scratch things.

6. Don't loosen the left fork axle pinch bolts. It holds the spacer for the wheel and handles the wheel speed sensor alignment. No need to touch it.

7. Leave all pinch bolts loose when putting wheel and axle and calipers back in. You'll need to center the wheel prior to tightening these.

8. To make your life easy on the back wheel. Get a block of wood or something the right height to stick under the rear tyre. This will hold the wheel there when you take the axle out so the axle is easy to remove and the wheel doesn't drop down and get damaged on the rear caliper. Also when reassembling the rear wheel, don't forget wheel spacers. Also make sure rear caliper is aligned to the locator on the swingarm. It has a channel that it needs to locate on. If you don't do this correct, the caliper will lurch forward and snap the locator off the swingarm and cause damage or cause a crash.

9. Make sure to pump your brakes up once all said and done.

10. Check tyre pressure sensors don't come loose in the removal and re fit process. I have seen it before and air will leak out over night and you will get a flat. Piece of mind to check and tighten the pressure sensor and valve while tyre is off.

11. Use a spanner or rag to jam up the chain when fitting the rear wheel. This pulls the wheel forward against the axle blocks. Hold it there and tighten the rear axle nut.

Torques:
Rear axle nut: 100Nm
Front axle: 50Nm
Front caliper bolts: 38Nm
Front axle pinch bolts: 19Nm x 3 times each, alternating
Good Info - glad I just read this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Successfully got them changed (major hassle on the rear tire - newbie mistakes but got it done). Good to know on the speed sensor. I did see it there and hopefully it's all still working now that it is back in place. I have not taken a test ride on it yet and won't get to do that till later next week.
 
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