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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Some bikes it is hard to find neutral below 1000kms. Also the clutch seems inconsistent or sticky prior to 1000kms.

Lubrication of a clutch pack that is not run in can have a increased drag torque which results in neutral being hard to find.

Replacing the clutch is not the fix. The clutch will be worn in in the first 1000kms which will make it easier to find neutral.

EDIT October 2019
Since August production a oil control valve has been fitted into the end of the input shaft to help with clutch separation. This can be retrofitted onto previous bikes prior to August production. A modified clutch pack has been introduced since September production which will replace the old parts. The friction plates have been optimised.
 

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I asked my dealer about this couple of days ago and got this answer: BMW issued a "service bulletin" and stated the clutch will get better the more it is used, there is no other fix for this.

Annoys the hell out of me but just use the lever instead of the quick shifter.
 

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On my first ride on the 2020, when came to the first stop light, I couldn't get neutral to save my life. Based on experiences with the HP4 and my '15 I quickly adjusted some play out of the clutch lever. It was fine till about 330 miles and another small adjustment made everything right again. I had forgotten to re-tighten the locking wheel. :rolleyes: I don't think this is a real issue. Probably only for those that think they don't have to do anything between services. :laugh:

Is it true clutch free play is now supposed to be measured at the end of the lever?
 

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Why the interest in relative difficulty of finding neutral? Serious question. My '17...sometimes I miss neutral when I want it, but it's easy to get there anyway. Just curious...
 

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If you guys like to find neutral, I recommend the new Honda blade. It has 5 neutrals! Guy Martin can tell you all about it.

 

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Maybe it's a good idea to use the clutch quite a bit during the break-in period instead of relying nearly always on the quickshifter. That way it will bed in a bit better I would think.
 

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Adjust the cable and the problem goes away.
Definitely had to adjust the cable made it a lot better on the clutch side. Doesn't fix the neutral problem. You basically can never get neutral on first try. If I do, 1 out of 10 times, lucky..... I can't fathom doing much town riding with this thing....not that it is made for that in the first place but still. Or get this, iron wrist ?
 

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The neutral hunt problem seems idiosyncratic to the individual bike. I just got my new RR today and was surprised at how easy/reliable finding neutral was, up and down.

In contrast, the 2018 S1000XR I rented last summer in Europe had a neutral almost impossible to find.
 

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The neutral hunt problem seems idiosyncratic to the individual bike.
Agree 100% and will add "conditions." I've owned 18+ bikes over the years and on occasion they would all fight getting into neutral. Best test: put the bike in gear with no front brake. If it lurches forward, plates aren't disengaged completely. Adjust the clutch and the problem should be less prevalent. My 2020 has been perfect and stubborn in neutral selection. No better or worse than my '15 or HP4. Pretty much the same as all the other bikes I've owned which include Bultaco, Suzuki, Yamaha and KTM. It's just a normal motorcycle trait to me. If it bothers you that much, pay someone to pull the engine, split the cases and undercut the gears in the transmission. :laugh:
 

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Mine was great until the required 1000km service. Leaving the shop, neutral was all but impossible to find... getting better now that it has more miles on it and I added some slack to the clutch adjustment.

Overall, the first service experience wasn’t great... the neutral issue, oil sprayed over the bike (likely some cleaning agent used to clean the chain), engine oil overfilled (level glass completely filled when standing the bike up).

Unfortunately, BMW forces us to do the first service in their shop to remove the limitations. Now that it’s done, all regular maintenance will be done by owner.

Dealer told me to keep driving with overfilled oil and drop by some day to get a bit siphoned off. Good thing this machine has warranty, should it blow a gasket and retire the engine in the next couple of weeks...

My guess is that the engineer simply added the oil per the manual, without checking the level before rolling the bike out.

Any thoughts on whether the bike will burn it, push it through crank house ventilation, or blow a gasket? I’m taking bets
 

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Discussion Starter #15
There was a error in the manual regarding 4.5 liters being the quantity. It has now been changed to 4. Regardless of this a dealer should know how to set oil levels regardless of amounts given. Personally I never use an amount. I set it manually. 500ml extra is said to have no effect on the engine.
 

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There was a error in the manual regarding 4.5 liters being the quantity. It has now been changed to 4. Regardless of this a dealer should know how to set oil levels regardless of amounts given. Personally I never use an amount. I set it manually. 500ml extra is said to have no effect on the engine.


Agree 100%. This is also how I do it
 

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"Defective drill hole may restrict the oil supply to the gearbox.
This could cause damage to the gears and blocking of the back wheel, increasing the risk of an accident."

Yike!
 

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"Defective drill hole may restrict the oil supply to the gearbox.
This could cause damage to the gears and blocking of the back wheel, increasing the risk of an accident."

Yike!
Wouldn't be too worried. This is the main reason for all production delays. They are slowly getting it sorted.
Thought we covered this 2 months ago. Less than 300 units affected. All released in Europe. None made it to the U.S. That's how I remember it. Too lazy to search. :smile2:
 
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