BMW S1000RR Forum banner

2020 2D Racing Front Sensor Install - Working / Not Working K67 S1000RR

37K views 105 replies 23 participants last post by  S&Kmotorrad 
#1 · (Edited)
So I thought it might be best to do a thread on this 2D sensor install because this is the unofficial carry over install from the K46. It failed, and it worked. Do I recommend others to try this? No, not really unless you are very handy with drilling and tapping holes in a very nice new front fork.

The upper bracket will work on the fork tube. I tried in the same mounting method as you would have instructions for with 2D Racing sensor install. The lower bracket would not fit the brake caliper mounting point at all. So I had to come up with a mounting the quickest possible way so not to spend alot of time on something that might not even work. So I drilled a hole in my front lower fork stantion. It was only a 4mm hole, so I was not concerned with the hole if it did not work. Sure enough it does not work well. It was impossible to see the turning radius completely without getting the whole thing mounted and in working condition. The turning was greatly reduced because of the just installed EVOTECH radiator guards. 2D racing has some work to do in figuring out how to get around the clearance issues if the K67 has radiator guards in place too.

Install try number 2. I already saw the compression and rebound in the TFT cluster and I was like 'yes' .. success at least on getting the ECU to see the sensor. So I decided that in the front of the fork tube was next. This location is not ideal because alot of bugs, rocks, birds, and whatever else might fly up off the road can hit the sensor really easy now. I decided its got to mount somehow. So I swing the top bracket around, and the lower needs to be drilled again. This time I decide to thread tap the hole M4 and screw the stand off in there and attachment ball. This worked really well. Wish I had threaded the other hole M4 and you would barely see it and just thought it was a factory hole.

As you can see in the pics, both sides of the tube I show you.

Does it make a difference in the ride? Not exactly like it does on the K46. I am not sure why, but in my 140 miles of testing today, the squat off the corner reaction was not the same as the K46. I am sure it is due to the swing arm type and how it is designed to react to start with. Maybe the code is different and an update is coming. The ECU does see the sensor and provide the compression and rebound now at least.















Its like me however, I own the

2020 K67 ///M Programmed XWORKS ECU by me
2018 K46 RCK3 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
2017 K46 RCK3 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
2015 K46 RCK3 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
2014 K46 RCK2 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me

all these have their place in use, but I really enjoy the K67 overall on the track. You just got to have a ECU resolution to really enjoy the power.
 
See less See more
6
#5 ·
Have you tested how much free play there is when the front is completely extended? I did this a couple of months ago and found that the 150mm stroke was not long enough for the standard K67 front fork.

I have fitted a 175mm in the rear and 100mm in the rear. The front is standard fork with ohlins cartridge, rear is ohlins shock.

I have no DDC and this was purely for the 2D system.
 
#6 ·
Its all in the mounting to make what you got work.

The upper bracket as you can see in the 2nd phase of mounting is BELOW the triple clamp. There is alot of sensor travel with the clamp below rather than above like it mounts on the K46. The location of where I drilled and tapped the M4 is just about even with where it would have mounted if the bracket had worked on the caliper boss. I could have made the bracket work for the caliper boss, but that would have made the sensor right back in the location behind the fork tube and hitting the radiator EVOTECH guard.

I like the mounting and the clearance I have achieved. I just need to hope I dont have a large bug, rock, bird strike right on the sensor. So far in 150 miles no issues.

I have installed the 2D Datalogger now yesterday so I will see what data comes across on that device.
 
#9 · (Edited)
So looking at the 2D website, they have multiple types of potentiometer measurement instruments. Now, I know the lasers would be a simple installation but expensive purchase I saw a quote for 2500 euro. They also have wire potentiometers which could also work in the tight spaces we have available. Would it feasible to use a different type of measuring device? contactless or wire verses a linear potentiometer?

Displacement - 2D Debus & Diebold Meßsysteme GmbH
 
#10 ·
the S1000RR ECU is setup for a 6k ohm double rail potentiometer. Someone tried a 10k single rail and it did not work
 
#13 ·
So I thought it might be best to do a thread on this 2D sensor install because this is the unofficial carry over install from the K46. It failed, and it worked. Do I recommend others to try this? No, not really unless you are very handy with drilling and tapping holes in a very nice new front fork.

The upper bracket will work on the fork tube. I tried in the same mounting method as you would have instructions for with 2D Racing sensor install. The lower bracket would not fit the brake caliper mounting point at all. So I had to come up with a mounting the quickest possible way so not to spend alot of time on something that might not even work. So I drilled a hole in my front lower fork stantion. It was only a 4mm hole, so I was not concerned with the hole if it did not work. Sure enough it does not work well. It was impossible to see the turning radius completely without getting the whole thing mounted and in working condition. The turning was greatly reduced because of the just installed EVOTECH radiator guards. 2D racing has some work to do in figuring out how to get around the clearance issues if the K67 has radiator guards in place too.

Install try number 2. I already saw the compression and rebound in the TFT cluster and I was like 'yes' .. success at least on getting the ECU to see the sensor. So I decided that in the front of the fork tube was next. This location is not ideal because alot of bugs, rocks, birds, and whatever else might fly up off the road can hit the sensor really easy now. I decided its got to mount somehow. So I swing the top bracket around, and the lower needs to be drilled again. This time I decide to thread tap the hole M4 and screw the stand off in there and attachment ball. This worked really well. Wish I had threaded the other hole M4 and you would barely see it and just thought it was a factory hole.

As you can see in the pics, both sides of the tube I show you.

Does it make a difference in the ride? Not exactly like it does on the K46. I am not sure why, but in my 140 miles of testing today, the squat off the corner reaction was not the same as the K46. I am sure it is due to the swing arm type and how it is designed to react to start with. Maybe the code is different and an update is coming. The ECU does see the sensor and provide the compression and rebound now at least.
How can you mount the sensor bracket under the triple?
Can you calibrate the DDC front sensor now?

From 2014-2018 you only could calibrate the rear sensor for the correct DDC settings, never the front!
Therefore you have to have 412mm measurement fully extended from end to end for the front sensor - but I guess you know all of this :nerd:
 
#14 ·
The dealer software ISTA+ has a calibration process for the 2D sensors. You put the bike at static sag and run the suspension calibration process. It is supposed to be a little better than the K46 running the CALIB via the cluster calibration process.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AndyHP4
#23 ·
This is still PASSIVE suspension system moving into SEMI-ACTIVE. We are not at Full ACTIVE suspension on the 2020 yet. There is no zero point needed where you read +75 or -75 in a 150mm length of travel. Active suspension is a type of automotive suspension that controls the vertical movement of the wheels relative to the chassis or vehicle body with an onboard system, rather than in passive suspension where the movement is being determined entirely by the road surface > https://www.iosrjournals.org/iosr-jmce/papers/vol13-issue4/Version-1/A1304010106.pdf

What happens from what I am told by a BMW engineer is that when a front sensor is on the S1000RR, the ESA does some calculations between front sensor and rear sensor ( factory sensor on the swingarm ) and does interpret attitude of squat and anti squat. So the rear shock purpose in life is to keep the rear tire on the ground at all times. The front telling the ESA what is coming can help in the rear doing its job better.

Can you calibrate? yes, but, you are calibrating to a voltage at a steady point. This is purely example here > If your SAG is 30mm, and the voltage at calibration is 3.35 volts, then the ESA and ECU use 3.35 volts as a known zero point of calibration. Now if the voltage is going to 4 volts it is traveling one way, if it is 2 volts it is traveling the other way. Hence compression and rebound.

The ISTA software can calibrate the suspension better than the cluster can using CALIB on the K46. The K67 does not even have CALIB but, you can calibrate the suspension in the dealer software ISTA.

I use the K46 DataLogger on my K67 with AnnaLiza. I have been told that others have tried this and it does not work for them.
 
#27 ·
Anyone tried this bracket, listed for 150mm ?
Hey mate, you need 175mm sensor and different bracket

 
#32 ·
So I thought it might be best to do a thread on this 2D sensor install because this is the unofficial carry over install from the K46. It failed, and it worked. Do I recommend others to try this? No, not really unless you are very handy with drilling and tapping holes in a very nice new front fork.

The upper bracket will work on the fork tube. I tried in the same mounting method as you would have instructions for with 2D Racing sensor install. The lower bracket would not fit the brake caliper mounting point at all. So I had to come up with a mounting the quickest possible way so not to spend alot of time on something that might not even work. So I drilled a hole in my front lower fork stantion. It was only a 4mm hole, so I was not concerned with the hole if it did not work. Sure enough it does not work well. It was impossible to see the turning radius completely without getting the whole thing mounted and in working condition. The turning was greatly reduced because of the just installed EVOTECH radiator guards. 2D racing has some work to do in figuring out how to get around the clearance issues if the K67 has radiator guards in place too.

Install try number 2. I already saw the compression and rebound in the TFT cluster and I was like 'yes' .. success at least on getting the ECU to see the sensor. So I decided that in the front of the fork tube was next. This location is not ideal because alot of bugs, rocks, birds, and whatever else might fly up off the road can hit the sensor really easy now. I decided its got to mount somehow. So I swing the top bracket around, and the lower needs to be drilled again. This time I decide to thread tap the hole M4 and screw the stand off in there and attachment ball. This worked really well. Wish I had threaded the other hole M4 and you would barely see it and just thought it was a factory hole.

As you can see in the pics, both sides of the tube I show you.

Does it make a difference in the ride? Not exactly like it does on the K46. I am not sure why, but in my 140 miles of testing today, the squat off the corner reaction was not the same as the K46. I am sure it is due to the swing arm type and how it is designed to react to start with. Maybe the code is different and an update is coming. The ECU does see the sensor and provide the compression and rebound now at least.















Its like me however, I own the

2020 K67 ///M Programmed XWORKS ECU by me
2018 K46 RCK3 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
2017 K46 RCK3 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
2015 K46 RCK3 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
2014 K46 RCK2 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me

all these have their place in use, but I really enjoy the K67 overall on the track. You just got to have a ECU resolution to really enjoy the power.
So I'm facing the same challenge and alpha racing sending me this
 

Attachments

#40 ·
Mine has been working 8500 miles now. I do plan to buy a new MY21 so on it I will design something better. I will not give up steering left or right when there is a way to fix it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bennymx
#42 ·
The front 2D sensor has always been an add on device since the 2015 and the connector is OEM with a cap on it. It is located on the left side of the frame rail just above the radiator area. DDC and DTC both benefit from the addition of the 2D sensor.
 
#43 ·
DDC and DTC both benefit from the addition of the 2D sensor.
DTC benefits because the DTC coding uses data about what the front suspension is doing to adjust TC at the rear?

Does adding the 2D sensor allow rear DDC take into account what the front suspension is doing?

I'm waiting for my 150mm mount but wonder what changes in performance to expect. Also hoping I can cut down the steering dampers a bit with the 150mm kit (relative to the 175mm kit).
 
#47 ·
if you mount it like Alpha designed it you need stop on the left side of the frame in the least. Those rubber stops come with the kit usually.
 
#51 ·
sensor will hit the radiator and bend the sensor shaft. If you decide to follow my method and put the sensor on the front side, it does not hit that way. And if you are thinking to put it on the right side it hits the radiator on that side too.
 
#59 ·
The top mount is the K46 flipped over and just turned around to be on the front side.

all the pics on page 1 show what I did. I first I drilled and tapped a hole in the fork stantion on the caliper side and the sensor would not clear the radiator still. So I flipped the upper bracket, and drilled and tapped another hole on the front side of the fork stantion so it secures the bottom. Complete total left and right steering. 9600 miles and zero issues. You do have to trim the upper inside plastic to clear the sensor swing area. Its only about .750 of clearance needed in about 4-5 inches of swing area.

 
#61 ·
with sensor you are splitting the work of the front fork as intended in design. compression and rebound adjustment as separate functions.
 
Top