So I thought it might be best to do a thread on this 2D sensor install because this is the unofficial carry over install from the K46. It failed, and it worked. Do I recommend others to try this? No, not really unless you are very handy with drilling and tapping holes in a very nice new front fork.
The upper bracket will work on the fork tube. I tried in the same mounting method as you would have instructions for with 2D Racing sensor install. The lower bracket would not fit the brake caliper mounting point at all. So I had to come up with a mounting the quickest possible way so not to spend alot of time on something that might not even work. So I drilled a hole in my front lower fork stantion. It was only a 4mm hole, so I was not concerned with the hole if it did not work. Sure enough it does not work well. It was impossible to see the turning radius completely without getting the whole thing mounted and in working condition. The turning was greatly reduced because of the just installed EVOTECH radiator guards. 2D racing has some work to do in figuring out how to get around the clearance issues if the K67 has radiator guards in place too.
Install try number 2. I already saw the compression and rebound in the TFT cluster and I was like 'yes' .. success at least on getting the ECU to see the sensor. So I decided that in the front of the fork tube was next. This location is not ideal because alot of bugs, rocks, birds, and whatever else might fly up off the road can hit the sensor really easy now. I decided its got to mount somehow. So I swing the top bracket around, and the lower needs to be drilled again. This time I decide to thread tap the hole M4 and screw the stand off in there and attachment ball. This worked really well. Wish I had threaded the other hole M4 and you would barely see it and just thought it was a factory hole.
As you can see in the pics, both sides of the tube I show you.
Does it make a difference in the ride? Not exactly like it does on the K46. I am not sure why, but in my 140 miles of testing today, the squat off the corner reaction was not the same as the K46. I am sure it is due to the swing arm type and how it is designed to react to start with. Maybe the code is different and an update is coming. The ECU does see the sensor and provide the compression and rebound now at least.
Its like me however, I own the
2020 K67 ///M Programmed XWORKS ECU by me
2018 K46 RCK3 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
2017 K46 RCK3 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
2015 K46 RCK3 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
2014 K46 RCK2 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
all these have their place in use, but I really enjoy the K67 overall on the track. You just got to have a ECU resolution to really enjoy the power.
The upper bracket will work on the fork tube. I tried in the same mounting method as you would have instructions for with 2D Racing sensor install. The lower bracket would not fit the brake caliper mounting point at all. So I had to come up with a mounting the quickest possible way so not to spend alot of time on something that might not even work. So I drilled a hole in my front lower fork stantion. It was only a 4mm hole, so I was not concerned with the hole if it did not work. Sure enough it does not work well. It was impossible to see the turning radius completely without getting the whole thing mounted and in working condition. The turning was greatly reduced because of the just installed EVOTECH radiator guards. 2D racing has some work to do in figuring out how to get around the clearance issues if the K67 has radiator guards in place too.
Install try number 2. I already saw the compression and rebound in the TFT cluster and I was like 'yes' .. success at least on getting the ECU to see the sensor. So I decided that in the front of the fork tube was next. This location is not ideal because alot of bugs, rocks, birds, and whatever else might fly up off the road can hit the sensor really easy now. I decided its got to mount somehow. So I swing the top bracket around, and the lower needs to be drilled again. This time I decide to thread tap the hole M4 and screw the stand off in there and attachment ball. This worked really well. Wish I had threaded the other hole M4 and you would barely see it and just thought it was a factory hole.
As you can see in the pics, both sides of the tube I show you.
Does it make a difference in the ride? Not exactly like it does on the K46. I am not sure why, but in my 140 miles of testing today, the squat off the corner reaction was not the same as the K46. I am sure it is due to the swing arm type and how it is designed to react to start with. Maybe the code is different and an update is coming. The ECU does see the sensor and provide the compression and rebound now at least.
Its like me however, I own the
2020 K67 ///M Programmed XWORKS ECU by me
2018 K46 RCK3 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
2017 K46 RCK3 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
2015 K46 RCK3 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
2014 K46 RCK2 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
all these have their place in use, but I really enjoy the K67 overall on the track. You just got to have a ECU resolution to really enjoy the power.