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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I thought it might be best to do a thread on this 2D sensor install because this is the unofficial carry over install from the K46. It failed, and it worked. Do I recommend others to try this? No, not really unless you are very handy with drilling and tapping holes in a very nice new front fork.

The upper bracket will work on the fork tube. I tried in the same mounting method as you would have instructions for with 2D Racing sensor install. The lower bracket would not fit the brake caliper mounting point at all. So I had to come up with a mounting the quickest possible way so not to spend alot of time on something that might not even work. So I drilled a hole in my front lower fork stantion. It was only a 4mm hole, so I was not concerned with the hole if it did not work. Sure enough it does not work well. It was impossible to see the turning radius completely without getting the whole thing mounted and in working condition. The turning was greatly reduced because of the just installed EVOTECH radiator guards. 2D racing has some work to do in figuring out how to get around the clearance issues if the K67 has radiator guards in place too.

Install try number 2. I already saw the compression and rebound in the TFT cluster and I was like 'yes' .. success at least on getting the ECU to see the sensor. So I decided that in the front of the fork tube was next. This location is not ideal because alot of bugs, rocks, birds, and whatever else might fly up off the road can hit the sensor really easy now. I decided its got to mount somehow. So I swing the top bracket around, and the lower needs to be drilled again. This time I decide to thread tap the hole M4 and screw the stand off in there and attachment ball. This worked really well. Wish I had threaded the other hole M4 and you would barely see it and just thought it was a factory hole.

As you can see in the pics, both sides of the tube I show you.

Does it make a difference in the ride? Not exactly like it does on the K46. I am not sure why, but in my 140 miles of testing today, the squat off the corner reaction was not the same as the K46. I am sure it is due to the swing arm type and how it is designed to react to start with. Maybe the code is different and an update is coming. The ECU does see the sensor and provide the compression and rebound now at least.















Its like me however, I own the

2020 K67 ///M Programmed XWORKS ECU by me
2018 K46 RCK3 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
2017 K46 RCK3 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
2015 K46 RCK3 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me
2014 K46 RCK2 / HP Power Kit'ed ECU by me

all these have their place in use, but I really enjoy the K67 overall on the track. You just got to have a ECU resolution to really enjoy the power.
 

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Have you tested how much free play there is when the front is completely extended? I did this a couple of months ago and found that the 150mm stroke was not long enough for the standard K67 front fork.

I have fitted a 175mm in the rear and 100mm in the rear. The front is standard fork with ohlins cartridge, rear is ohlins shock.

I have no DDC and this was purely for the 2D system.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Have you tested how much free play there is when the front is completely extended? I did this a couple of months ago and found that the 150mm stroke was not long enough for the standard K67 front fork.

I have fitted a 175mm in the rear and 100mm in the rear. The front is standard fork with ohlins cartridge, rear is ohlins shock.

I have no DDC and this was purely for the 2D system.

Its all in the mounting to make what you got work.

The upper bracket as you can see in the 2nd phase of mounting is BELOW the triple clamp. There is alot of sensor travel with the clamp below rather than above like it mounts on the K46. The location of where I drilled and tapped the M4 is just about even with where it would have mounted if the bracket had worked on the caliper boss. I could have made the bracket work for the caliper boss, but that would have made the sensor right back in the location behind the fork tube and hitting the radiator EVOTECH guard.

I like the mounting and the clearance I have achieved. I just need to hope I dont have a large bug, rock, bird strike right on the sensor. So far in 150 miles no issues.

I have installed the 2D Datalogger now yesterday so I will see what data comes across on that device.
 

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Apparently Alpha racing is due to release a bracket for 2D sensor.

Could have waited a lil bit longer instead of drilling holes in forks.
 

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So looking at the 2D website, they have multiple types of potentiometer measurement instruments. Now, I know the lasers would be a simple installation but expensive purchase I saw a quote for 2500 euro. They also have wire potentiometers which could also work in the tight spaces we have available. Would it feasible to use a different type of measuring device? contactless or wire verses a linear potentiometer?

Displacement - 2D Debus & Diebold Meßsysteme GmbH
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So looking at the 2D website, they have multiple types of potentiometer measurement instruments. Now, I know the lasers would be a simple installation but expensive purchase I saw a quote for 2500 euro. They also have wire potentiometers which could also work in the tight spaces we have available. Would it feasible to use a different type of measuring device? contactless or wire verses a linear potentiometer?

Displacement - 2D Debus & Diebold Meßsysteme GmbH
the S1000RR ECU is setup for a 6k ohm double rail potentiometer. Someone tried a 10k single rail and it did not work
 

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I like the mounting and the clearance I have achieved. I just need to hope I dont have a large bug, rock, bird strike right on the sensor. So far in 150 miles no issues.
If only someone could fabricate a CF shield...
 

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the S1000RR ECU is setup for a 6k ohm double rail potentiometer. Someone tried a 10k single rail and it did not work
Okay... will make a note of that. Thanks.
 

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So I thought it might be best to do a thread on this 2D sensor install because this is the unofficial carry over install from the K46. It failed, and it worked. Do I recommend others to try this? No, not really unless you are very handy with drilling and tapping holes in a very nice new front fork.

The upper bracket will work on the fork tube. I tried in the same mounting method as you would have instructions for with 2D Racing sensor install. The lower bracket would not fit the brake caliper mounting point at all. So I had to come up with a mounting the quickest possible way so not to spend alot of time on something that might not even work. So I drilled a hole in my front lower fork stantion. It was only a 4mm hole, so I was not concerned with the hole if it did not work. Sure enough it does not work well. It was impossible to see the turning radius completely without getting the whole thing mounted and in working condition. The turning was greatly reduced because of the just installed EVOTECH radiator guards. 2D racing has some work to do in figuring out how to get around the clearance issues if the K67 has radiator guards in place too.

Install try number 2. I already saw the compression and rebound in the TFT cluster and I was like 'yes' .. success at least on getting the ECU to see the sensor. So I decided that in the front of the fork tube was next. This location is not ideal because alot of bugs, rocks, birds, and whatever else might fly up off the road can hit the sensor really easy now. I decided its got to mount somehow. So I swing the top bracket around, and the lower needs to be drilled again. This time I decide to thread tap the hole M4 and screw the stand off in there and attachment ball. This worked really well. Wish I had threaded the other hole M4 and you would barely see it and just thought it was a factory hole.

As you can see in the pics, both sides of the tube I show you.

Does it make a difference in the ride? Not exactly like it does on the K46. I am not sure why, but in my 140 miles of testing today, the squat off the corner reaction was not the same as the K46. I am sure it is due to the swing arm type and how it is designed to react to start with. Maybe the code is different and an update is coming. The ECU does see the sensor and provide the compression and rebound now at least.
How can you mount the sensor bracket under the triple?
Can you calibrate the DDC front sensor now?

From 2014-2018 you only could calibrate the rear sensor for the correct DDC settings, never the front!
Therefore you have to have 412mm measurement fully extended from end to end for the front sensor - but I guess you know all of this :nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
How can you mount the sensor bracket under the triple?
Can you calibrate the DDC front sensor now?

From 2014-2018 you only could calibrate the rear sensor for the correct DDC settings, never the front!
Therefore you have to have 412mm measurement fully extended from end to end for the front sensor - but I guess you know all of this :nerd:

The dealer software ISTA+ has a calibration process for the 2D sensors. You put the bike at static sag and run the suspension calibration process. It is supposed to be a little better than the K46 running the CALIB via the cluster calibration process.
 
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No it would not, it's not compatible with Gen4 OEM forks.

Alpha racing is beta testing a new bracket now that fits on top of speed sensor on left side. I believe they are close to a prod release soon.
any idea if existing 150mm would work on this new bracket ? or still need 175mm sensor ?
 

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My solution for the bugs, mud, brake dust ;).


209462



I did clean this year my potentiometers and it was not bad after almost 4 years of use. Now they are like new again.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
any idea if existing 150mm would work on this new bracket ? or still need 175mm sensor ?
It is almost impossible to explain this operation of the sensor to you guys without pictures.

There are 4 states of the sensor.

At rest ( SAG )
At fully extended ( on a wheelie is a good example )
At fully compressed ( on a stoppie front wheel is a good example )
Some where in between all that in motion like going on the race track

Lets say the fully extended range of the forks on the wheelie. The sensor better be mounted in such a way that at least 5mm is still inside the cylinder range at fully extended.
Lets say the fully compressed range of the forks on the stoppie. The sensor better be mounted in such a way that at least 5mm is still inside the cylinder range from fully compressed.
Its does not matter if that is using a 150mm or a 175mm range potentimeter. As long as you are within the range of motion to stay away from fully compressed or fully extended.

Now at rest (SAG) then the calibration of the suspension takes over that point in the travel. That becomes your ZERO, but when you datalog the front sensor it is not ZERO at SAG. it is what the sensor is reading. Mine happens to be 45.0mm

Lets go back to on a Wheelie now. My reading on the front sensor is 114.2 fully extended
Lets go back to the stoppie now. My reading on the front sensor is 10.8mm fully compressed WITHOUT bottoming out the forks of course.

It does not matter what the length of the potentimeter is as long as it is mounted in the way that it covers your range of motion up and down, and it mounts on your forks the way you want it to mount and work overall.

Alot of you think my way is crazy, but it functions 100% the way intended. I have full lock to lock steering left and right. I dont have to have any bump stops on my steering to limit my travel at all. My sensor works in it 150mm travel 100% and has not been damaged in 7400 miles so far.
 
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