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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
I bought a 2012 RR in late 2019 and after approx 1,000km of riding I installed the following mods in this order over the space of the month of March 2020
1: Exhaust servo removal, installed the Servo Buddy to prevent error codes appearing
2: HM Quickshifter Stand Alone Blipper System
3: IAT relocation kit - DIY job.

Here is the sequence of issues:
  • The bike ran ok for a few weeks but then started having ignition delays when I turned it on in the morning. It would take from 3 - 10 secs for the dash to do its usual cycle and sweep the needle.
  • The next stage was the bike would stall after starting.
  • Then when riding it on the street it would also stall and cycle the dash as if i had cycled the key. On a couple of occasions it displayed the '! VDS' error code but after testing the sensor it seems to work correctly as per this video:
I also checked a couple of items like the kick stand sensor but none of these cycle the dash. I also installed a brand new battery as my old battery didn't pass the load test. I heard of lots of electrical gremlins in the RR's when battery condition is poor but the new battery didn't help

I've seen lots of stalling issues mentioned within the forums but can't see any that relate to the dash doing a full dash cycle.

How should I approach diagnostics from here?
1: Start removing the mods one by one to see how the bike reacts
2: Bring to a shop that can check the diagnostics for stored error codes? (does this model store codes or does it only display current 'active codes'?)

Many Thanks,
Marty
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Discussion Starter #3
It will be the ignition switch. The contacts inside can fail in the on or off position. Or be intermittent. You can open them up and repair but replacing would be easier.
Is there a thread on how I would go about opening them up and fixing them?
Would you have the part number for the item?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Benny,
I guess this doesn't need programming or new keys or anything of the sort to install this? as the antenna ring still remains the same.
It's just a simple swap out?
Martin
 

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you can just swap the bottom part of the switch. #2 on the diagram. I think it is about $50 USD. Very easy to change. Only need to remove the upper triple clamp for the replacement process.


I see now @bennymx has indicated #1.. that is only the locking / key cylinder housing. #2 does the actual work of switching on/off. there is no service parts inside of #2.. just replace it.

VDS comes up due to voltage issues as much as it can trigger from a drop of the bike. You experiencing a voltage lost at the ignition switching part can create a VDS error. Low batteries / bad connections can cause a VDS error as well.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
You guys were bang on the money, I done some further testing and when I tapped on the ignition switch it caused the dash to cycle.
I'll do the same test with the bike running tomorrow but I'm sure it'll just cut it out and cycle the dash.

See attached video.


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Discussion Starter #12
Mine works slightly differently, I'll post a clip later on for you

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@bennymx posted a video of the 15-20 version.. however, it is only 15/16 that had this issue of the nylon button sticking. I posted long ago I took the thing apart and cleaned it like the guy in the video is referring to only to have it fail again 2500 miles later. The real issue is the nylon is molded with a ridge line around it. I even tried to sand that ridge line off. after wasting many hours on it, I decided to order a new switch and call it a day. Then since I order alot of these switches and EWS modules, I noticed there was a redesign on that nylon button in late 2017. Now all the new switches have a goldish tint to them and work extremely well.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here's a quick look at my 2012 model ignition switch, don't mind all the fumbling around with one hand haha
 
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