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hey, recently picked up a 2011 s1000rr with 45,000kms on it. Bike seems to be running hot reaching a max temp of 118°C (244.4°F) in stop and go traffic. Fan is working, water pump appears to be doing its job and i've just replaced the thermostat which seems to have helped. However it's still getting up to 112°C (233.6°F). Outside temp is hot (25°C) but i dont believe this to be nomral opertating temp. Any ideas as to what else i should look into?
 

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hey guys, recently picked up a 2011 s1000rr with 45,000kms on it. Bike seems to be running hot reaching a max temp of 118°C (244.4°F) in stop and go traffic. Fan is working, water pump appears to be doing its job and i've just replaced the thermostat which seems to have helped. However it's still getting up to 112°C (233.6°F). Outside temp is hot (25°C) but i dont believe this to be nomral opertating temp. Any ideas as to what else i should look into?
 

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thanks @bennymx, nothing leaking from the rad cap, will give it a bleed tommorow and see how that goes. Noticing upon cold start and just sitting it only goes up to 102/103, but upon riding it starts to get hotter. Not sure if this info helps at all.
 

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the temp sensor is at a place in the engine where air bubbles go to. If there is any air in there the air temp will rise quickly, but the water temp isn't actually so high. And yes, testing/replacing the radiator cap is not an expensive option.
 
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hey guys, recently picked up a 2011 s1000rr with 45,000kms on it. Bike seems to be running hot reaching a max temp of 118°C (244.4°F) in stop and go traffic. Fan is working, water pump appears to be doing its job and i've just replaced the thermostat which seems to have helped. However it's still getting up to 112°C (233.6°F). Outside temp is hot (25°C) but i dont believe this to be nomral opertating temp. Any ideas as to what else i should look into?
The cooling system on the S1000RR is not designed for stop and go traffic. There is only one fan and it cannot create enough air flow across the radiator at stop and go and especially if the go is only 10-20MPH for too long a time. Needs air across the radiator.
 

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Thanks so much everyone for all the advice, greatly appreciated!!! So this point of bled the system and it’s still running hot. Wondering if I’m missing something during the bleeding process however. Followed the various YouTube guides on how to do so (open bleeder on water pump, squeeze hoses from water pump/thermostat, and run with rad cap open), but it seems regardless of how many times I repeat this step I still have bubbles upon squeezing the hoses. Will go ahead with a pressure test once I can get access to a kit but whilst I’m waiting is there anything I’m missing in the bleeding process?
 

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The cooling system on the S1000RR is not designed for stop and go traffic. There is only one fan and it cannot create enough air flow across the radiator at stop and go and especially if the go is only 10-20MPH for too long a time. Needs air across the radiator.
Jumping all the way up to
118 degrees Celsius in vary mild stop and go traffic(50-70km/h), don’t believe this to be a safe operating temp.
 

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Mine hovers at 212-214 Fahrenheit (100C) MAX, even in hot weather in traffic. 118 is definitely hot
I would check the thermostat just to be sure. You can submerge it in hot water and see if it opens.
 

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Mine hovers at 212-214 Fahrenheit (100C) MAX, even in hot weather in traffic. 118 is definitely hot
I would check the thermostat. You can submerge it in hot water and see if it opens.
Thanks for the advice! At this point I’ve already replaced the rad and it doesn’t seem to have helped. Water pump is functioning as well, kinda puzzled at this point as to what else it could be
 

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Thanks for the advice! At this point I’ve already replaced the rad and it doesn’t seem to have helped. Water pump is functioning as well, kinda puzzled at this point as to what else it could be
*sorry meant to say thermostat not rad
 

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they are a hot running bike that hates traffic of course, but that does seem higher than it should. the temp on dash is reading, your replaced the thermostat, you've bled out the air, fluids right level, fan is coming on correctly, and all the easy items. does it basically behave like an air cooled bike? i.e. it just seems dependent on airflow almost? if so, my guess is the waterpump. my aprilia was doing that, acting like an air cooled bike, they checked everything, including the water pump, but upon second look, turned out it was the water pump. if everything else is working, that may be the culprit. not sure what else it could be.
 

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they are a hot running bike that hates traffic of course, but that does seem higher than it should. the temp on dash is reading, your replaced the thermostat, you've bled out the air, fluids right level, fan is coming on correctly, and all the easy items. does it basically behave like an air cooled bike? i.e. it just seems dependent on airflow almost? if so, my guess is the waterpump. my aprilia was doing that, acting like an air cooled bike, they checked everything, including the water pump, but upon second look, turned out it was the water pump. if everything else is working, that may be the culprit. not sure what else it could be.
Yeah everything you’ve mentioned has been done, thinking it may be possible that it’s not bled correctly? Water pump looks to be doing it’s job as there’s plenty of movement while running the bike with the rad cap off. At this point I’m also possibly suspecting that it could be something to do with the water pump. It’s definitely acting like an air cooled bike. For my bleeding process I opened the bleeder screw, squeezed the hoses, and ran the bike with the rad cap off. However after doing that I noticed there still to be a decent amount of bubbles upon squeezing the hoses.
 

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Yeah everything you’ve mentioned has been done, thinking it may be possible that it’s not bled correctly? Water pump looks to be doing it’s job as there’s plenty of movement while running the bike with the rad cap off. At this point I’m also possibly suspecting that it could be something to do with the water pump. It’s definitely acting like an air cooled bike. For my bleeding process I opened the bleeder screw, squeezed the hoses, and ran the bike with the rad cap off. However after doing that I noticed there still to be a decent amount of bubbles upon squeezing the hoses.
originally, AF1 thought my water pump was fine too, but when nothing else fixed it combined with how it was behaving, they went back and tore into it deeper and it did turn out to be the water pump. this was on a brand new bike too. You definitely need to ensure air is out of the system, but beyond that, just cuz water is moving in the system doesn't mean the pump is actually moving fluid how it needs. On my new aprilia, we also wondered about blocked passages as a possibility, but with yours, i doubt it, or it would've shown up before.
 

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possible there's a blockage somewhere as the previous owner was having overheating issues aswell. Will give a water pump a try as its a fairly easy/cheap part. thanks for the tips!
 
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