Clutch Cable Adjust or Replace - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch Cable Adjust or Replace

Greetings - I'm at 9.5K on my 2010 & adjusted the dial-out at the lever progressively to keep it nice & tight. Unfortunately, at this point the lever must be let "all" the way out to engage.

I've been looking at my DVD repair manual & inspecting the clutch cable adjustment on the bracket located on left side of the engine. If I understand correctly, the cable slack can be adjusted here? (I read with interest that an adjustment can also be made under the clutch cover.

So, the outside nut appears relatively easy to access - if you have an angle open ended 13mm - which I am presently looking to purchase. However, the inside nut is a blessed PITA. Following some advice I will decide whether to remove the gas tank for access as per repair manual, which I would also have to do this to replace with a new Bowden cable (OR) consider removing the clutch cover & have to deal with the oil...

1. If successful at removing the outside nut - I'm guessing I might be able to push the cable toward the inside of bike & hopefully hand-loosen the inside nut.
2. Any advice on accessing inside nut w/o tank removal?
3. I am also guessing the first step may be to dial-in the lever adjustment some to maximize slack.
4. Loosen the inside & outside nuts on the clutch cable attached to engine bracket.
5. Now the real fun begins; Am I trying to tighten the cable threads via the outside nut to pull the cable in to tighten? I am guessing the direction will become obvious once I get there.
6. $42.00 for a new Bowden clutch cable.

Any advice out there to confirm assumptions & mitigate copious amounts of foul language along with the loss of some blood?
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colobeamer View Post
Greetings - I'm at 9.5K on my 2010 & adjusted the dial-out at the lever progressively to keep it nice & tight. Unfortunately, at this point the lever must be let "all" the way out to engage.

I've been looking at my DVD repair manual & inspecting the clutch cable adjustment on the bracket located on left side of the engine. If I understand correctly, the cable slack can be adjusted here? (I read with interest that an adjustment can also be made under the clutch cover.

So, the outside nut appears relatively easy to access - if you have an angle open ended 13mm - which I am presently looking to purchase. However, the inside nut is a blessed PITA. Following some advice I will decide whether to remove the gas tank for access as per repair manual, which I would also have to do this to replace with a new Bowden cable (OR) consider removing the clutch cover & have to deal with the oil...

1. If successful at removing the outside nut - I'm guessing I might be able to push the cable toward the inside of bike & hopefully hand-loosen the inside nut.
2. Any advice on accessing inside nut w/o tank removal?
3. I am also guessing the first step may be to dial-in the lever adjustment some to maximize slack.
4. Loosen the inside & outside nuts on the clutch cable attached to engine bracket.
5. Now the real fun begins; Am I trying to tighten the cable threads via the outside nut to pull the cable in to tighten? I am guessing the direction will become obvious once I get there.
6. $42.00 for a new Bowden clutch cable.

Any advice out there to confirm assumptions & mitigate copious amounts of foul language along with the loss of some blood?
Start with the cable slack, remove the clutch cover ( loosen bolts and tap the cover with a rubber hammer to free the cover first) don`t worry about oil coming out, it sits below that level..remove the cover and check/adjust the clutch push rod, it should spin freely by hand but take up the slack as the manual states , then work back up to the bars again as the manual states, if you can`t get your adjustment in line that way then yes change your cable..

P.S have you changed your stock levers ?? and to what ??
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 06:24 PM
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What????
Just adjust the cable at the bracket where it has two lock nuts (by the rear of the cylinders- at opposite end of clutch perch and lever). No need to take the clutch cover off !
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 09:32 AM
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I will help you all out.

As the clutch cable heats up from the crazy hot engine you need to adjust the spinner on the clutch lever to keep it within 1-2mm of freeplay as stated in the manual from cold, but it doesn't say to do what i am saying, only through experience can i say this. The picture of the 1-2mm gap helps but I can't be bothered to find it, look yourself if you don't know what i mean. It's a little annoying I guess, But it will save your transmission in the long run. I always make little adjustments on the fly now and have perfect gear shifts with and without the clutch. Before, as the bike would heat up to running temp the clutch cable would become stretched from heat and so this is where you run into trouble with your QS and when using the clutch.

It's just one of those things you have to do, other wise as the cable heats up the 1-2mm gap grows to much and this is bad for your tranny as your clutch throw is shortened when hot and it stuffs up everything, keep it within spec, 1-2mm. adjust on the go as needed.

Be great if we could just leave the clutch adjuster(spinner) alone but these are race engines and run mega hot. Those extra ponies the germans squeezed out come at a cost when compared to the less powerful equivalent's.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 11:11 AM
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I will help you all out,

The crazy hot engine I am saying through experience. It's a little annoying I guess I stretch from heat and I shorten when hot.

I run mega hot and squeeze out less powerful equivalent's.
Hmmmmm......
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 05:53 PM
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wtf.

what are you trying to say.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 06:09 PM
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Clutch or Drivetrain Problems

You may see increased engine heat if your clutch slips or if your drivetrain causes your engine to work harder. These issues put extra load on your engine, making it work harder than what it was designed for. You may not see the effects on the engine when you are riding in cooler temps, but they will rear their ugly heads once they are compounded with the excessive heat from the weather. Make sure you resolve these issues before you take a ride on a really hot day.

keep your clutch cable adjusted to spec, that means adjust accordingly even on the fly.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 06:12 PM
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It is meant to be set cold. But once it heats up it expands and the freeplay is too much. So you tighten it up. It's good. Then the bike cools down and it shrinks again. This heating and cooling causes them to snap over time because when it shrinks it is then too tight. I have seen it. That is why it is set cold. I don't like the idea of having to set it hot and wind it back when cold. So I just set it hot and forget. If it snaps I'll get a new one.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 06:16 PM
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Goodluck benny mate.
I understad what your saying, I should of been more clear about how much I adjust the spinner, I'm making a few clicks only.

You make a great point.

Adjust it a little not a lot.

common sense I guess but not for all.

Last edited by Colers; 01-22-2017 at 06:18 PM.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bennymx View Post
So I just set it hot and forget. If it snaps I'll get a new one.
100% True..
It hasnt snapped on me in past 5 years though... lol
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