Can anyone let me know a good switched 12v 3amp power source on a 2016 RR. I installed the rapid bike but the my tuning requires a switched 12v 3amp power source. And the instructions say tail and brake light are not a good source
When I installed my "My Tuning" module, I was told the plate light wire was not enough current and couldn't find a switched 12v I was comfortable using. So I wired up a Relay using power straight from the battery and the plate light wire as my switch. Been that wasy for a year now and works great.
TL;DR: my impression was that switched power sources should switch fully off (0 V). This wiring appears not to be doing so.
I just connected to the high beam (#5) fuse and the little red light on MyTuning took me off guard. I thought that when the ignition is OFF, there shouldn't be any power running through MyTuning???
Looks like there's a measurable current running through the red wire. I got a steady 0.15A DC via closed loop current probe, which makes me worried that the bike has to be on a tender OR ELSE. With a small battery like ours it can already be an issue, but with a LiFe battery - even more so because they despise drain currents.
That said, has anyone tried one of the bike's native can-bus 3 prong connectors on either side of the engine block? I run my 2.0A USB charger off of one of them and it is, in fact, switched. Now whether it is switched fully off I cannot say.
edit: ~1.2mV DC measured at the CAN bus terminals which normally lead to the USB 12v->5v converter. I guess that's a hard no to fully turning off to 0V.
Interesting. My LiFeP04 charger is reported a downgraded state for the battery after only a couple of hours of MyTuning being plugged in to the high beam fuse and key off. I think it might not be as much of a big deal for lead acid battery bikes, but there's definitely power consumption with the key in OFF.
Does yours keep blinking the red LED with the key off?
If you need more current than the switched +12VDC is capable of, get a good quality weatherproof relay, and wire the trigger to the +12VDC (or however that relay tells you) and the power leads straight to the battery terminals. Then you're only limited in current by the relay and/or the gage of your wire. I used to do this for car audio installations all the time, it's easy, that's what relay's are for.
Interesting. By the looks of @smash_adams' photo, that's tapped into fuse 6 - optional accessory connector, number-plate. I'm tapped into 5 - high beam. It may just be the case that the bike cuts 6 off fully, but not 5. Going to test that theory later today....
Sounds like 6 then would be a great one to tap into to trigger the relay.
I have to actually thank you for starting this, as I bought the BMW wiring harness, but upon reflection here, I think I may now simply use that to trigger a relay (because the harness has TINY wires) to run power straight from the battery. That way I know the weatherproof cigarette lighter socket I plan to run up near the dash will have ample juice to run anything I want to run, GPS, portable compressor, etc.
Looks like I made a rookie mistake confusing a switched circuit for a non-switched one. Just verified with a volt meter. The #5 7.5A fuse isn't switched - measured the full 13.55V, but the #6 7.5A fuse is switched (0.02V) with the key off. Rookie mistake. I guess if the max draw from MyTuning is 3A, it should be safe to wire without a relay.
I did the same, and my battery is completely dead now. It has the !VDS error code then it was resetting the screen then nothing. This was after riding for 80ish miles. I drove it to work and when work was over the bike was dead.
Anybody have pictures of the relay they did for this setup? In the link: https://www.s1000r.co.uk/index.php?topic=3314.0
I have it wired to the #4 in the picture, which to my understanding is actually the number 6 accessories power.
Should I have it to the #6 in the picture, or the bottom left of the fuse box?
Yo! Hate to dig up a thread but its very related. Installing my own Rapidbike MyTuning module on a 2016 s1000rr this upcoming weekend. I'm a bit uneducated with electrical systems so bear with me here. I am between choosing the
- red and yellow wire near the battery as discussed previously, as discussed by smashadams
- the licence plate lamp as discussed previously, (switched)
- and was also recommend to try the starter relay (by Yaman).
My biggest question, as was brought up previously - if I remove the license plate light (as in, going to the track) and I choose to use that as my switched power source, will that still work or will that cause a "open" circuit (because the plug for the license plate light would be missing) and thus not allow the mytuning to work.
Secondly, where is the starter relay? Is there an easy way to find a "diagram" or visual for this either in the user or maintenance manuals?
and finally, is it better to insert the positap closer to the origination of the wire, or closer to the object it supplies? (or is it simply based on convenience/making sure it doesnt snag/has plenty of room to move).
I have a multimeter coming in the mail so I can confirm "switched"-ness before the install. Anything else I need to be careful of when choosing which wire to use? (like too high/low amp/volts).
Also if anyone has any updates on what has or hasn't worked for their mytuning module I'd love to hear it.
Keep in mind, mine is a 14. I used the fuse #8 on my bike (sensor group, 4A, switched source). I also disconnected the fuse box under the back seat and put the positap right under it where it connects to fuse #8). Its been good since. No issues.
Thanks for the help. Its currently tapped into the hot wire directly to the license plate light. No issues yet. I'll post up if there are. I have a positap coming in the mail and will probably switch to the #6 fuse as seen here https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/U1UAAOSwwbdWNjoZ/s-l300.jpg.
Hi, I must have missed something in this thread.... Why not use the switched outlet that BMW provide, it's in your owners manual.
All Canbus BMW's have a Power outlet as std on the loom. On a 2016 S1000RR it's behind the left fairing. 5 Amp, timed switched power i.e like your lights, takes a period to show 0V. Edit: I forgot about the one near the headstock on the right. Meant for GPS Laptimer but the same. Might be more convenient for someone.
Why not use that? On S1000RR connect as following
1 Red 2 Black 3 Not used Works great and turns on and off with ignition.
Search for BMW canbus sat nav cable? Cheapest from a dealer
The lead you are looking for is "BMW Repair connector" part number 83300413585. Half the price than the one below.
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