Good source for switched 12v power source - Page 3 - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-29-2018, 06:29 PM
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@CYCLE_MONKEY Agreed. I came to the the relay conclusion yesterday, as well.
Thanks for the input, guys!
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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-29-2018, 06:36 PM
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Interesting. By the looks of @smash_adams' photo, that's tapped into fuse 6 - optional accessory connector, number-plate. I'm tapped into 5 - high beam. It may just be the case that the bike cuts 6 off fully, but not 5. Going to test that theory later today....

layout: https://www.s1000r.co.uk/index.php?topic=3314.0
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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-29-2018, 08:13 PM
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Interesting. By the looks of @smash_adams' photo, that's tapped into fuse 6 - optional accessory connector, number-plate. I'm tapped into 5 - high beam. It may just be the case that the bike cuts 6 off fully, but not 5. Going to test that theory later today....

layout: https://www.s1000r.co.uk/index.php?topic=3314.0
Sounds like 6 then would be a great one to tap into to trigger the relay.

I have to actually thank you for starting this, as I bought the BMW wiring harness, but upon reflection here, I think I may now simply use that to trigger a relay (because the harness has TINY wires) to run power straight from the battery. That way I know the weatherproof cigarette lighter socket I plan to run up near the dash will have ample juice to run anything I want to run, GPS, portable compressor, etc.
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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 03:17 PM
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Looks like I made a rookie mistake confusing a switched circuit for a non-switched one. Just verified with a volt meter. The #5 7.5A fuse isn't switched - measured the full 13.55V, but the #6 7.5A fuse is switched (0.02V) with the key off. Rookie mistake. I guess if the max draw from MyTuning is 3A, it should be safe to wire without a relay.
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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-23-2018, 06:44 PM
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Looks like I made a rookie mistake confusing a switched circuit for a non-switched one. Just verified with a volt meter. The #5 7.5A fuse isn't switched - measured the full 13.55V, but the #6 7.5A fuse is switched (0.02V) with the key off. Rookie mistake. I guess if the max draw from MyTuning is 3A, it should be safe to wire without a relay.
I did the same, and my battery is completely dead now. It has the !VDS error code then it was resetting the screen then nothing. This was after riding for 80ish miles. I drove it to work and when work was over the bike was dead.

@smash adams

Anybody have pictures of the relay they did for this setup? In the link: https://www.s1000r.co.uk/index.php?topic=3314.0
I have it wired to the #4 in the picture, which to my understanding is actually the number 6 accessories power.
Should I have it to the #6 in the picture, or the bottom left of the fuse box?

Good Deals with: pimpedc6, MFisher702, k9crew, M GmBH, NavyFlip, rbernard1984,l3aderbike

Last edited by Mayo513; 07-24-2018 at 01:02 PM.
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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 01:21 PM
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I did the same, and my battery is completely dead now. It has the !VDS error code then it was resetting the screen then nothing. This was after riding for 80ish miles. I drove it to work and when work was over the bike was dead.

@smash adams

Anybody have pictures of the relay they did for this setup? In the link: https://www.s1000r.co.uk/index.php?topic=3314.0
I have it wired to the #4 in the picture, which to my understanding is actually the number 6 accessories power.
Should I have it to the #6 in the picture, or the bottom left of the fuse box?
that sounds right to me. did you test with multimeter to ensure that power is switched on / off with key?

i don't remember off the top of my head, but what did you do for power for the RapidBike Evo/Race unit? perhaps the RapidBike Evo/Race unit power is wired to an 'always hot'?
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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 04:07 PM
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that sounds right to me. did you test with multimeter to ensure that power is switched on / off with key?

i don't remember off the top of my head, but what did you do for power for the RapidBike Evo/Race unit? perhaps the RapidBike Evo/Race unit power is wired to an 'always hot'?
I will check again. The bike is stuck at work, till I get the new battery in. I didn't test it unfortunately, I waited to see if it powered after 10/15 seconds and I thought it did but I could be biasing my memory from reading posts.

For the main module, I believe it's just connected to the +/- of the battery harness. I don't recall there being any additional cables for powering. Hopefully that wouldn't need a relay as well.

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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-28-2018, 07:08 PM
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that sounds right to me. did you test with multimeter to ensure that power is switched on / off with key?

i don't remember off the top of my head, but what did you do for power for the RapidBike Evo/Race unit? perhaps the RapidBike Evo/Race unit power is wired to an 'always hot'?


So my bike is a 2013. If you are looking down at the fuse box, with your head facing the ignition. My bottom right fuse is a 4A, and it's switched. I have it wired to this and it seems to be working correctly now. It's turning off after 10ish seconds. The 7.5A in the position you used is not switched for me.
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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 07:43 PM
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I have a 2014 S1000RR. I am looking for a good source for switched power. I have a Rapidbike Evo with MyTune module installed. I also have a lithium ion battery, and a factory alarm, if that helps.

Looking at my owner’s manual, I initially used fuse#6 (Horn)(see pics below) to connect the positive red wire to a switched source. Everything seemed to be running fine, however, a few days later I went to turn on my motorcycle and my battery was completely dead. I thought fuse#6 was a 7.5 A switched source. I took my battery out, recharged it, and reinstalled it after I switched the source to what Mayo513 used below. This was just done minutes ago. Everything seems ok so far.

I have provided a couple of screenshots of my owners manual with the corresponding fuse description. I would appreciate if anybody could help me confirm or correct the source for switch power according to my manual.

(I don’t have a multimeter, but I have checked the red light on the MyTune module when I shut the bike off and after a few seconds it shuts off, so it seems that the 4A fuse is a good source, time will tell. Also wondering if I take the alarm off will that help with less draining on the battery? )





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Quote:
Originally Posted by smash adams View Post
that sounds right to me. did you test with multimeter to ensure that power is switched on / off with key?

i don't remember off the top of my head, but what did you do for power for the RapidBike Evo/Race unit? perhaps the RapidBike Evo/Race unit power is wired to an 'always hot'?


So my bike is a 2013. If you are looking down at the fuse box, with your head facing the ignition. My bottom right fuse is a 4A, and it's switched. I have it wired to this and it seems to be working correctly now. It's turning off after 10ish seconds. The 7.5A in the position you used is not switched for me.
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Last edited by karimak2; 04-21-2019 at 08:33 PM.
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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 06:35 PM
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Yo! Hate to dig up a thread but its very related. Installing my own Rapidbike MyTuning module on a 2016 s1000rr this upcoming weekend. I'm a bit uneducated with electrical systems so bear with me here. I am between choosing the

- red and yellow wire near the battery as discussed previously, as discussed by smashadams

- the licence plate lamp as discussed previously, (switched)

- and was also recommend to try the starter relay (by Yaman).

My biggest question, as was brought up previously - if I remove the license plate light (as in, going to the track) and I choose to use that as my switched power source, will that still work or will that cause a "open" circuit (because the plug for the license plate light would be missing) and thus not allow the mytuning to work.

Secondly, where is the starter relay? Is there an easy way to find a "diagram" or visual for this either in the user or maintenance manuals?

and finally, is it better to insert the positap closer to the origination of the wire, or closer to the object it supplies? (or is it simply based on convenience/making sure it doesnt snag/has plenty of room to move).

I have a multimeter coming in the mail so I can confirm "switched"-ness before the install. Anything else I need to be careful of when choosing which wire to use? (like too high/low amp/volts).

Also if anyone has any updates on what has or hasn't worked for their mytuning module I'd love to hear it.

Cheers
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