Bike wont catch/start 2010 - Page 2 - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, will look into the stator/regulator thingies. Good thing about this is that I'm learning shitloads of things about my bike...
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Hello again,

Not sure if I'm allowed to post links or not but I found what I believe might be causing the issue or has caused the issue.

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I removed the two connectors on the "voltage regulator" and found water or an oil based solution inside one of the connectors (see picture). The other one was dry and more of what I suspected to find since it should be an enclosed environment(?). Cleaned the one with water/oil inside of it, pretty sure it was water even tho it is slightly brownish because it was extremely easy to get rid of. Sprayed some WD40 and will let it sit for a day or two.

Maybe this has caused permanent damage to the voltage regulator and I have to swap it/the connectors. But we will see... What do you guys think?
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 05:32 PM
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yea that's the problem in my opinion


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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 07:47 PM
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Oil in the connector form the stator is normal. That's how they are. The stator is inside the engine case and gets covered in oil. I have replaced my stator on my old bike when it shorted to ground. It's not your issue.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennymx View Post
Oil in the connector form the stator is normal. That's how they are. The stator is inside the engine case and gets covered in oil. I have replaced my stator on my old bike when it shorted to ground. It's not your issue.
did you see the pictures? it's the r/r in the pictures which is exposed to the elements. definitely should NOT be liquid in the connector which would short it out...
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smash adams View Post
did you see the pictures? it's the r/r in the pictures which is exposed to the elements. definitely should NOT be liquid in the connector which would short it out...
The Reg and stator need to be checked as I stated in my first post. If it's shorted it will take 2 seconds to diagnose. The reg's I have removed normally have a small amount of oil in them.
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Last edited by bennymx; 04-18-2017 at 08:30 PM.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 01:41 AM Thread Starter
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Oh... crap

Was so excited to find residue of something inside the connector. Just looked wrong to a novice eyes.

On another note... when I put the bike on "ignition" yesterday it didnt make the usual clicking sound from the relays which seemed weird. Tried to start it - nothing. Turned it off and then back to "ignition" and I could hear the clicking sounds again. Still didnt start ofcourse.

Anyway, I will measure as we have said earlier I just didnt have the right tools to get the bracket with the r/r of the bike. Will let you know how that goes ofcourse. Thanks for your replys!
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 02:48 AM
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Have you checked all fuses and relays? Replace the relays anyway just to make sure.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 03:27 AM Thread Starter
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Checked all the fuses they looked fine. Been thinking about replacing the fuses and relays just for good measure. Looks like I have some things to check/do now. Will let you know how it goes.
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-13-2017, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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Hello friends,

Just an update: After a few hours of troubleshooting at a good bike shop they concluded that the ECU was bad. They tried changing a few different parts with another S1000RR 2010 until eventually swapping the entire ECU.

Bike started 10 out of 10 times with the other ECU but as soon as they switched back to my old ECU it didnt start.

They are not sure what broke it, perhaps me boosting the bike/battery several times burnt it. They did find cables from an old PCV still "half connected" which could also be the bad guy here. Only error codes they could see from the old ECU were "low voltage" and "high voltage".

Anyway, they will swap ECU and hopefully the issue wont come back.

Been thinking of swapping the cable harness just for good measure...

Thanks everyone for the feedback/tips!
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