Fork Oil change: DIY! - Page 5 - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
 109Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #41 of 159 (permalink) Old 06-27-2016, 10:32 PM
Senior Member
 
5150 Pops's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: North Chesterfield, VA
Posts: 3,437
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lane View Post
I am familiar with the $1300 Ohlins cartridge kits and we have the tools to work on them. Thanks for the suggestion, but not super relevant to the discussion.

Sorry, you must have missed my first comment......I can tell you when I was changing to Ohlins cartridges I did it without any special tools.

Which was relevant, I was trying to tell you it can be done without fabbing anything, but I guess you missed that. I followed up with a suggestion to not bother, because it seems like you were after simplicity, and I am of the opinion you'll never be able to enjoy that with the OEM Sachs internals.

No spring compressor needed with the Ohlins, 19mm wrench, 14mm wrench, 3mm a few other common tools, and since you already have the specific Ohlins stuff, I don't understand why you'd want to keep the OEM stuff, unless you're racing in a restricted class.

BTW.....you can get those cartridges a lot cheaper (new) if you look around.
AND @blachow has a near new set with 3 spring rates for sale now in the forum classifieds, who knows maybe he's negotiable on price, even though it's a decent price he's priced it.

blachow likes this.

2015 KTM SDC 1290R
2015 S1000RR - DDC
5150 Pops is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #42 of 159 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 03:56 PM
Senior Member
 
oz14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Diego
Posts: 331
Garage
I'm changing my fork springs and oil on a 2014 HP4 at the moment.

For the left leg, I've made up a tool similar to what BMW use. I bought a 1-1/4" PVC pipe joiner from Home Depot, as well as a reducer that fits inside the joiner. I cut the reducer at an angle with a hacksaw, so that it effectively makes a "thread" so you can treat the joiner as a nut that will screw down on the spring as if it is a bolt. I had to do redo this as the first one I cut in the wrong direction. Make sure you cut at the same angle and direction as the way the spring spirals.

Put a pair of holes at the top of the union for your spring compressor.

Then cut the union in half and use PVC pipe primer and glue to glue the "threads" into the pipe joiner halves. Clamp the plastic together - PVC glue is designed to work where this is a friction fit. Leave it a full 24hrs to cure.

Put the two halves around the spring, I used a zip-tie to hold it on, then the race-tech compressor to crank down on the spring. The union will slide inside the tube so you get plenty of room.

If you don't want to drill another set of holes in the right leg spacer, you can make a right leg tool as well. Same concept, you just glue two round pieces inside the union that fit in the spacer holes. That will give you an extra 1-1/2" compression which is all you need. PVC is plenty strong enough and it won't scratch anything.

I'll post some pictures to make it clearer.
5150 Pops likes this.

2017 Yamaha FZ-09
2014 HP4 Comp #4547
oz14 is offline  
post #43 of 159 (permalink) Old 01-20-2017, 08:48 PM
Senior Member
 
oz14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Diego
Posts: 331
Garage
Well my cunning and devious plan did not work out so good - BMW why did you make this so hard....

I have a Racetech spring compressor. The "jaws" that go either side of the spring/spacer are not wide enough to allow a PVC fitting (or anything strong enough really) between them and the spring or spacer. Other compressors might have more room - I don't know.

Reluctantly I had to give in and take the removed forks and my Wilbur springs to the local dealership for them to complete the removal, clean, add fresh oil, new springs and seal them up. It wasn't a lot of money ($200) but a bit annoying. The real BMW compressor and inserts is currently Euro 475 (about USD$490 + $30 shipping). I guess that is only 3 fork services - if you are going to be riding DDC bikes for the next 3yrs or more it might be worth it. If you are handy with a welder and a mill you could make equivalents.

Also, the spec for the fork oil has been updated. The original was 7.5wt but now all DDC forks are using 11.5wt (odd ball I know).
Dealer tech showed me this on their system. I went with the 11.5wt instead of the 10wt I was going to use.
Piper likes this.

2017 Yamaha FZ-09
2014 HP4 Comp #4547
oz14 is offline  
 
post #44 of 159 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 09:27 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 103
Thank you to the OP and the follow-up posters.

Using this thread, I just finished changing the fork oil on my 2010. The bike has just under 20k miles and the previous owner did not give me any service records.

Without this thread I never would have known about the "10-clicks and only 10" business, and my damping adjusters would have been mis-adjusted.

Fork oil looked new, was clear and was not at all stinky (smelled just like the stuff that came out of the Maxima bottle), so it had probably been changed recently.

But hey, now I know for sure it is done, and I know who did it.

Valve adjust one weekend soon...
orionengnr is offline  
post #45 of 159 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 09:48 PM
Senior Member
 
D.Clocktower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Santa Catarina, Brasil
Posts: 269
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rush66crp View Post
Damn, thanks for the write-up. I'll just continue to pay though...
Damn nice write up, but........ Im in the continue to pay crowd. I could PROBABLY do it, but nah!
wfo439 likes this.

Giddy up!
2015 Premium w/ SC Project CR-T
D.Clocktower is offline  
post #46 of 159 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 02:38 PM
Senior Member
 
PeterRS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 106
Preparing for this at the moment.

Bought the RaceTech compressor. Now just gathering information.

Mailed Dave Moss, he recommends a deviation from BMW advise regarding air chamber and oil weight:


For 2012 BMW S1000RR
10w Motul oil, air gap 90mm

Shock oil service was due at 10-12,000kms for a track bike, preferably 8,000kms for fast riding. Please get the rear shock serviced.


My bike has 17.000km's.
PeterRS is offline  
post #47 of 159 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 09:57 PM
Senior Member
 
5150 Pops's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: North Chesterfield, VA
Posts: 3,437
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by oz14 View Post
I'm changing my fork springs and oil on a 2014 HP4 at the moment.

For the left leg, I've made up a tool similar to what BMW use. I bought a 1-1/4" PVC pipe joiner from Home Depot, as well as a reducer that fits inside the joiner. I cut the reducer at an angle with a hacksaw, so that it effectively makes a "thread" so you can treat the joiner as a nut that will screw down on the spring as if it is a bolt. I had to do redo this as the first one I cut in the wrong direction. Make sure you cut at the same angle and direction as the way the spring spirals.

Put a pair of holes at the top of the union for your spring compressor.

Then cut the union in half and use PVC pipe primer and glue to glue the "threads" into the pipe joiner halves. Clamp the plastic together - PVC glue is designed to work where this is a friction fit. Leave it a full 24hrs to cure.

Put the two halves around the spring, I used a zip-tie to hold it on, then the race-tech compressor to crank down on the spring. The union will slide inside the tube so you get plenty of room.

If you don't want to drill another set of holes in the right leg spacer, you can make a right leg tool as well. Same concept, you just glue two round pieces inside the union that fit in the spacer holes. That will give you an extra 1-1/2" compression which is all you need. PVC is plenty strong enough and it won't scratch anything.

I'll post some pictures to make it clearer.

From the grave...Where dah pics at - Bruh???
A B likes this.

2015 KTM SDC 1290R
2015 S1000RR - DDC
5150 Pops is offline  
post #48 of 159 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 10:51 PM
Senior Member
 
oz14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Diego
Posts: 331
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5150 Pops View Post
From the grave...Where dah pics at - Bruh???
I was just thinking about this thread yesterday. I'll take some this week and put them up!
A B likes this.

2017 Yamaha FZ-09
2014 HP4 Comp #4547
oz14 is offline  
post #49 of 159 (permalink) Old 09-15-2017, 10:51 AM
Moderator
 
bennymx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Australia
Posts: 6,106
I had a mate fab up a copy of the racetech one. Work's a treat.
bennymx is offline  
post #50 of 159 (permalink) Old 10-09-2017, 12:37 PM
Senior Member
 
stratus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 143
Quote:
Originally Posted by shell015 View Post
Continued:
Raise the upper fork tube and start threading it on the top cap.


Be careful not to pinch or kink the rubber O-ring when tightening the top cap down on the fork tube.


Now that the fork is all buttoned up, check it for smooth compression and rebound by holding the fork firmly on the floor and push down on the top tube as the bike would do under braking. If it feels good and does not bottom out on the brake caliper mounts, itís time to reinstall the fork on your bike. The torque setting for the triple tree bolts is 19Nm. Once the fork is installed in the triple tree, be sure to torque the top cap to 20Nm too!

Now itís time to repeat this procedure for the other fork!

Time wise for each fork, it took me about 45 minutes from removing the fork from the bike, draining the oil, disassembly, refilling, measuring, reassembly of internals, checking rebound settings and tightening the top cap back on the upper tube. Keep in mind, this was my first time, so experience will certainly reduce the time it takes to change the fluid next time.

Good luck!
thank you! any chance to load the pictures again please?

Also, anyone know where to buy the compression tool in Europe? And the fork seal driver tool for 2010 S1000rr - what diameter we need? Is this suitable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...UCUVYVLX&psc=1 (I also have a Triumph Street Triple and ideally would buy the set that fits as many as posible bikes, but to a minimum these 2 I have now)
stratus is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome