Fork Oil change: DIY! - Page 3 - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
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post #21 of 159 (permalink) Old 04-11-2013, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dammursostupid View Post
Great write up. I'm planning on doing this soon. My question is how can you tell if the forks are bent/ bad. I was involved in a minor accident. Rear ended a car at 20mph (distracted by phone ringing) I visually checked the forks and both appear straight, no kinks neither. I was wondering if internal damage is possible?
Good question. If they appear straight, it's probably OK. If you do change the fluid and things "drag" or don't pull apart correctly, or even if the damping rod appears bent, then you have bad forks. For what it's worth, I had a buddy with 2000 GSXR600 on the track for 5+ years with slightly bent forks and never bothered him.
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post #22 of 159 (permalink) Old 04-11-2013, 10:49 PM
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a tip: you might want to loosen the bottom bolt and lightly tighten before removing from bike.
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post #23 of 159 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by shell015 View Post
Good question. If they appear straight, it's probably OK. If you do change the fluid and things "drag" or don't pull apart correctly, or even if the damping rod appears bent, then you have bad forks. For what it's worth, I had a buddy with 2000 GSXR600 on the track for 5+ years with slightly bent forks and never bothered him.
Thanks for the advice. when I change the fluids I will update you on how the internal pulls apart. Hopefully everything goes smoothly.
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post #24 of 159 (permalink) Old 07-18-2013, 01:22 PM
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post #25 of 159 (permalink) Old 07-18-2013, 10:11 PM
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Damn!
Bike feels lighter and sharper,

The oil wasn't as dirty as I thought it would be after 26K. I'll probably wait until another 30K for the next oil change.

Per Mr. Moss I used Motul 15W and left the level 105mm from the top. Rebound on 5, stock preload. 6 on the bottom of the fork. I bumped the rebound on the rear to 8 to match the front.

I think I still need to play around with settings a little, but it easily feels much better.

Thanks for the write up, everything was just as listed. :thumbup:
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post #26 of 159 (permalink) Old 07-18-2013, 10:14 PM
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post #27 of 159 (permalink) Old 07-19-2013, 12:54 AM
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No wonder the wives hate us. Having our bike in the living room and kitchens. Lol!

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post #28 of 159 (permalink) Old 02-13-2014, 09:43 PM
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I'm looking for fork level and oil weights for hp4 DDC electronic suspension.

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post #29 of 159 (permalink) Old 05-06-2016, 04:31 AM
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Thanks for the great info. I followed your advice and even bought the same Race Tech tool to do the job myself. Somehow,
I could not see the top nut while the Race Tech tool was cranked all the way. Is 2014 fork different to yours or am I doing something
wrong?
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post #30 of 159 (permalink) Old 05-06-2016, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mazinga View Post
Thanks for the great info. I followed your advice and even bought the same Race Tech tool to do the job myself. Somehow,
I could not see the top nut while the Race Tech tool was cranked all the way. Is 2014 fork different to yours or am I doing something
wrong?
Not sure if the '14 forks are much different than the '10-'11 models. Mine was close to not being able to get to the nut with the tool fully compressing the tube just prior to touching the tube. I had to pull up just a little on the internals with my hand to get to the nut to loosen it. Not sure if this will help you get yours done, but figure you have to be close with the tool being just about the only way to get the internals pulled apart. Maybe loosen/remove the bolt on the very bottom of the fork to release the internals from the inside of the tube? You'd have to remove the compression tool to get to the bolt on the bottom of the fork first.
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