DID 525 ZVX 118 links endless chain install - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
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DID 525 ZVX 118 links endless chain install

bought (by mistake) an endless chain. So I must cut it and install with a master link (if I understand correctly from all the videos I watched so far).

My bike is 2010 (117 links required?), so do I need to cut off 2 links, add a master link? 118-2+1=117?

What master link goes well with our bikes and this chain please?

It will be my first chain change, as it can be seen from the questions

UPDATE: this is the chain I bought:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So I guess the correct link will be something like this?:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DID-525-Z...oAAOSw2xRYmZqx

Last edited by stratus; 08-26-2019 at 04:30 AM. Reason: correct type is DID 525 ZVMX
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 05:01 AM
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Yes 117 links is what you need. Yes cut 2 off then use the rivet link to make it 117. When you cut your old chain. Lay it down on a bench flat. Put your new one along side it. Then you can work it out to be 100% correct and not cut it short. Do you have the tools required to cut the old chain and then also press the rivet link together and then peen the ends?
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 10:43 AM
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Buy the DID chain rivet tool. Best one I have used.

DID chain you got is a good one, get two X-ring master links (one as backup in case you mess up given it's your first time).

Cut your old chain, put along side your new one, remove links from new as needed.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 08:26 PM
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 10:33 PM
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I bought a chinese knockoff of the DID rivet tool from fleabay, cheaper and did the job but I had to modify it a bit.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennymx View Post
Yes 117 links is what you need. Yes cut 2 off then use the rivet link to make it 117. When you cut your old chain. Lay it down on a bench flat. Put your new one along side it. Then you can work it out to be 100% correct and not cut it short. Do you have the tools required to cut the old chain and then also press the rivet link together and then peen the ends?
Quote:
Originally Posted by z00 View Post
Buy the DID chain rivet tool. Best one I have used.

DID chain you got is a good one, get two X-ring master links (one as backup in case you mess up given it's your first time).

Cut your old chain, put along side your new one, remove links from new as needed.
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Originally Posted by A B View Post
I bought a chinese knockoff of the DID rivet tool from fleabay, cheaper and did the job but I had to modify it a bit.
Thank you all for replies!

I bought the genuine (I hope) DID tool - it cost $90, better be genuine

I noticed that ALL the rivets on the new chain are square, like on the old Regina chain I have on the bike now. Couldn't find the master link as all rivets on the NEW chain looks identical. Where do I cut the new chain then?
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 02:39 AM
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Cut the new chain anywhere. It doesn't matter.

You may run into a problem with that DID tool. The DID tool will press the link together and for peening it normally uses a mushroom type arrangement. It pushes a cylinder into the hollow pin and flares it out. The square type links require you to use a different tool. Its like a drift with a cut out. You hit it with a hammer like a punch and it peens top and bottom. Then you rotate it 90 degrees and it does left and right. Giving you that square look. Peen'd over on 4 sides.

BMW Chain tool. You can see the little half moon cut out. This is either a press type arrangement where you wind it in. Or some are like a punch and you just hit it with a hammer.


DID chain tool instructions:
http://www.didchain.com/PDF/DID%20Ch...20Inst_150.pdf

DID Link with hollow pins uses a flare DID tool


Square link uses a punch with a cutout to peen 4 sides
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Last edited by bennymx; 08-27-2019 at 02:45 AM.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 04:18 AM
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Best thing to do is use an angle grinder to get the top bits of the peened part off, then press it thru using the rivet tool. Then once you have it in a single strand you'll be able to work out the best place to cut a whole link out, again by carefully grinding off the peened over part. A Dremel will help here as it's more precise than an angle grinder

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennymx View Post
Cut the new chain anywhere. It doesn't matter.

You may run into a problem with that DID tool. The DID tool will press the link together and for peening it normally uses a mushroom type arrangement. It pushes a cylinder into the hollow pin and flares it out. The square type links require you to use a different tool. Its like a drift with a cut out. You hit it with a hammer like a punch and it peens top and bottom. Then you rotate it 90 degrees and it does left and right. Giving you that square look. Peen'd over on 4 sides.

BMW Chain tool. You can see the little half moon cut out. This is either a press type arrangement where you wind it in. Or some are like a punch and you just hit it with a hammer.


DID chain tool instructions:
http://www.didchain.com/PDF/DID%20Ch...20Inst_150.pdf

DID Link with hollow pins uses a flare DID tool


Square link uses a punch with a cutout to peen 4 sides
I thought that a DID tool will work best on a DID chain...so I should have gotten a Motion Pro tool instead ?

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08...ND9X3A7VBJ37JD

Is there a problem if my chain with square rivet will have a master link with round flare? What are the risks? I thought it didn't matter how you rivet a pin as long as it stays in place...
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A B View Post
Best thing to do is use an angle grinder to get the top bits of the peened part off, then press it thru using the rivet tool. Then once you have it in a single strand you'll be able to work out the best place to cut a whole link out, again by carefully grinding off the peened over part. A Dremel will help here as it's more precise than an angle grinder

Sent by shoephone via Tapatoe
The reviews mentioned (I saw it even on a DID video shot by their race engineer or something) that the pin should go even without grinding, but thank you for the dremel tip, as I was indeed reluctant on using the angle grinder on the bike...dremel tool should be easier to handle.
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