DID 525 ZVX 118 links endless chain install - Page 2 - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 07:35 AM
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Let me be more precise.

Your DID chain will have a DID link which should be the mushroom type. So the tool will work completely fine. Disregard what I said. That is for the square type but you should be fine. The DID tool will flare them out mushroom style. You want to make sure its done correctly because that is all that's holding the chain. The pic I posted above is how it should look when done properly. I also attached the full PDF instructions.

Some chain tools will press out the pins clean whether you grind or not. But its a lot easier and quicker to grind the heads flat on one side then push them out. I always use a angle grinder.

Be careful when you press the master link together. Do not over tighten or you will seize the link and it won't be able to flex.
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Last edited by bennymx; 08-28-2019 at 07:53 PM.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennymx View Post
Let me more precise.

Your DID chain will have a DID link which should be the mushroom type. So the tool will work completely fine. Disregard what I said. That is for the square type but you should be fine. The DID tool will flare them out mushroom style. You want to make sure its done correctly because that is all that's holding the chain. The pic I posted above is how it should look when done properly. I also attached the full PDF instructions.

Some chain tools will press out the pins clean whether you grind or not. But its a lot easier and quicker to grind the heads flat on one side then push them out. I always use a angle grinder.

Be careful when you press the master link together. Do not over tighten or you will seize the link and it won't be able to flex.
thank you for this clarification! And for the .pdf!

not meaning to start another holly_war_thread, but would you choose Regina or DID chain on your bike? I went for DID chain and renthal sprockets front and rear, hope this is optimal.

On the master link, as I said, it will be my first time, but all the videos made clear that one should do a little and then check and again, in order not to over-tighten.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 11:30 AM
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Don't forget to reset your swing arm adjustments with the appropriate chain sag as well, about 1" I believe. The new chain will stretch on the initial ride.

I had some issues this past weekend hammering the master link ends down, ended up doing new sprockets since the bike has 15k on it. Doesn't look great but it should hold, the o rings all appear the same gap.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 10:53 PM
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Some people like to complicate $hit.

With the DID tool, you don't have to hammer or grind anything. Follow the instructions, I have used it on different chain brands, it worked great.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 12:12 AM
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thank you for this clarification! And for the .pdf!

not meaning to start another holly_war_thread, but would you choose Regina or DID chain on your bike? I went for DID chain and renthal sprockets front and rear, hope this is optimal.

On the master link, as I said, it will be my first time, but all the videos made clear that one should do a little and then check and again, in order not to over-tighten.
I went DID because my oem Regina carked it.
I went with JT steel sprockets.
Somewhere in the DID doco is a measurement of how much the pin should flare out (for each DID chain). Just measure with a set of calipers, and mark the master link with some nail polish so you can keep an eye on it after the first few rides.
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Many thanks for all the replies!

I am looking now for a master link (or two) and will attempt the chain change as soon as the weather will be unfavorable.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 01:50 PM
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Many thanks for all the replies!

I am looking now for a master link (or two) and will attempt the chain change as soon as the weather will be unfavorable.
That shouldn't be that hard to find, be careful, measure the pin with a caliper that goes to 1/100 of a mm. Also it is easy to over mushroom the rivet and here is why.

When you measure the rivet do not measure it where it touches the link. It is more narrow closest to the link. The sharp edge of the caliper will want to go under the mushroom and give you a false reading <5.7mm. Use the thicker flat edge of the caliper to measure the rivet at the widest point.

The DID tool is supposed to get the rivet to 5.7mm. Once you get to >5.7 stop!

Watch this video it is by DID and it is in Japanese with English sub titles it is the best video I have found.

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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by puget1000rr View Post
That shouldn't be that hard to find, be careful, measure the pin with a caliper that goes to 1/100 of a mm. Also it is easy to over mushroom the rivet and here is why.



When you measure the rivet do not measure it where it touches the link. It is more narrow closest to the link. The sharp edge of the caliper will want to go under the mushroom and give you a false reading <5.7mm. Use the thicker flat edge of the caliper to measure the rivet at the widest point.



The DID tool is supposed to get the rivet to 5.7mm. Once you get to >5.7 stop!



Watch this video it is by DID and it is in Japanese with English sub titles it is the best video I have found.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkY3Kd8Zgz0
Wow, now I am really concerned if my cheap Topex caliper is up to the job.

Maybe I need to buy a good caliper first. Can you recommend any verified models and sources to buy a really good caliper please?

And many thanks for the previous post!

Sent from my LG-H930 using Tapatalk
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 09:32 PM
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Wow, now I am really concerned if my cheap Topex caliper is up to the job.

Maybe I need to buy a good caliper first. Can you recommend any verified models and sources to buy a really good caliper please?

And many thanks for the previous post!

Sent from my LG-H930 using Tapatalk
any digital calipers that measure to 1/100 will do, they are all made kind of the same, closer to the tip of the caliper it has a knife edge as you get closer to the ruler it transitions to a flat edge. Measure with the flat edge, because the knife edge will give you a false low measurement.
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