2020 Suspension Setup with DDC - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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2020 Suspension Setup with DDC

Still breaking in my 2020 M with DDC. I'm a very lightweight rider and would like to adjust the compression (pre-load) to better suit my weight but I'm a little confused how the new system works and would like some help understanding.

As best I can tell, with the DDC, you can still manually set compression for both the front forks and rear shock, is this correct and is it as easy as turning the bolts on the right front fork and rear shock?

In Race Mode Pro, there is a compression setting for the rear, how does this work with the manual adjustment?

I read that DDC basically works in the road modes for the bike, but once you set it in Race or Race Mode Pro, the suspension acts like a traditional suspension. Does this just mean the computer is no longer actively adjusting the dampening?

My 2010 S1000RR had ohlins front shocks set up by a suspension shop and they were simply amazing. I'm hoping to get the same feeling out of the 2020.

PS. If anyone wants to by a track bike, I'll make you a heck of a deal on my 2010 S1000RR.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 06:16 AM
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As best I can tell, with the DDC, you can still manually set compression for both the front forks and rear shock, is this correct and is it as easy as turning the bolts on the right front fork and rear shock?

Compression and Rebound are set electronically through the dash on bikes fitted with DDC. You adjust preload on the front by turning the black knob on the right hand fork and for the rear its a grey knob on the shock to adjust preload.

In Race Mode Pro, there is a compression setting for the rear, how does this work with the manual adjustment?

You can adjust the DDC suspension independently for each race pro mode. Front and Rear are separate. The standard riding modes do not allow any changes. They are preset. You use the scroll wheel to adjust these settings and can increase or decrease compression and rebound. No manual adjustments on the fork or shock. Only preload.

I read that DDC basically works in the road modes for the bike, but once you set it in Race or Race Mode Pro, the suspension acts like a traditional suspension. Does this just mean the computer is no longer actively adjusting the dampening?

DDC in the 4 riding modes Rain, Road, Dynamic and Race is preset. Rain and Road use the same setting. Dynamic has its own setting. Race also has its own setting. The race pro modes can all be adjusted independently. The computer is always constantly adjusting the damping in all modes. The only difference is you can adjust the DDC settings in the race pro modes. Basically you are really adjusting the maximum damping you require. It won't go any harder than what you select. The 4 riding modes have a preset "hardness" "damping" what ever you want to call it.


My 2010 S1000RR had ohlins front shocks set up by a suspension shop and they were simply amazing. I'm hoping to get the same feeling out of the 2020.

The difference you will feel is that the DDC changes. It can soften up and can also harden up in milliseconds. It won't always be the same. This doesn't mean it will give you unpredictable handling. It means it will give you the best damping translating into handling that it can for the road surface you are riding on. A racetrack provides a common surface and small variety of corners and conditions. Hence it makes sense to use a suspension that can be tailored and fine tuned to a certain environment. Think of the DDC as a master of all conditions and surfaces. But for extra fast track riding/racing you may benefit from conventional suspension. But don't be deceived by others who may tell you that DDC is not good for track riding. It all comes down to feel. A stock bike out of the crate on street tyres and DDC suspension with a competent rider will still pull ultra fast lap times. Just comes down to personal preference. The technology is not holding you back. Remember that.

Hope this helps.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 08:18 AM
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Benny, When adjusting the preload for the front, are you just turning the adjustment knob on just the right fork top, or do you remove the cover on the left for the DDC and adjust that as well? Can you clarify that, as the manual is not very clear.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by PNorris View Post
Benny, When adjusting the preload for the front, are you just turning the adjustment knob on just the right fork top, or do you remove the cover on the left for the DDC and adjust that as well? Can you clarify that, as the manual is not very clear.
The preload is only done via the right hand fork. The left hand fork has no preload adjustment. Only damping and rebound through the dash electronically. No mechanical adjustment from the user. Under the plastic cover is just the electronic wire going into the fork.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smallj View Post
Still breaking in my 2020 M with DDC. I'm a very lightweight rider and would like to adjust the compression (pre-load) to better suit my weight but I'm a little confused how the new system works and would like some help understanding.

As best I can tell, with the DDC, you can still manually set compression for both the front forks and rear shock, is this correct and is it as easy as turning the bolts on the right front fork and rear shock?

In Race Mode Pro, there is a compression setting for the rear, how does this work with the manual adjustment?

I read that DDC basically works in the road modes for the bike, but once you set it in Race or Race Mode Pro, the suspension acts like a traditional suspension. Does this just mean the computer is no longer actively adjusting the dampening?

My 2010 S1000RR had ohlins front shocks set up by a suspension shop and they were simply amazing. I'm hoping to get the same feeling out of the 2020.

PS. If anyone wants to by a track bike, I'll make you a heck of a deal on my 2010 S1000RR.
Quote:
Originally Posted by smallj View Post
In Race Mode Pro, there is a compression setting for the rear, how does this work with the manual adjustment?
The manual adjustment you are referring to 'I think'is the PRELOAD adjustment. The preload is based on several things. Some people use it as a band aid. The spring rate at this time I have no clue what it is on the K67. Lets say it is a 10.0 rate like an Ohlins. This rear spring rate would be about what a 200 pound rider might be told to use on your new rear shock. You install the shock with the spring and you proceed to adjust the SAG. Here is where preload starts to come into use. Lets say you ate too many TEXAS BBQ ribs for dinner and your SAG comes in at 50mm. For one you would have the wrong spring in place for this situation is you have to dial in 50% of your preload to get your SAG at 10-20mm . Beyond this preload adjustment on the rear shock, there is no external rebound and compression features. These features are based on the DDC side of the electronic suspension.

You can get the DDC to work for you. It takes more effort on your part because very few suspension tuners have embraced the electronic world of hydraulics. Oil running in orifice is nothing hard, it is controlling those orifice paths consistent and to your feel that is the challenge.

The fork oil is so critical to this process. I looked up the K46 oil weight and I have already forgot what it is was now. It did not work for me anyway. So I use Silkolene 7.5wt fork oil in my DDC front forks. I tried 9wt, and 5wt also. The 7.5 is very popular for track use in Ohlins.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 06:21 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback, the system works as I believed it did. The problem I have now is making the seemingly simple adjustments. My rear shock adjustment bolt spins with some resistance but does not seem to adjust anything or have an upper or lower limit. The front shock adjustment bolt is tight enough that the plastic adapter in the toolkit can't adjust it either way.

I'll have the bike in the shop Tuesday for the initial run in service and see what they can do with it.

With some luck there will be a suspension tuning shop at my next track day and they can help me get it dialed in. Since I'm only 135lbs soaking wet, there's a chance I may need some new springs to get it right for me. As a fast intermediate or slow advanced rider, I'm not fast enough to be limited by the bike.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smallj View Post
Thanks for the feedback, the system works as I believed it did. The problem I have now is making the seemingly simple adjustments. My rear shock adjustment bolt spins with some resistance but does not seem to adjust anything or have an upper or lower limit. The front shock adjustment bolt is tight enough that the plastic adapter in the toolkit can't adjust it either way.

I'll have the bike in the shop Tuesday for the initial run in service and see what they can do with it.

With some luck there will be a suspension tuning shop at my next track day and they can help me get it dialed in. Since I'm only 135lbs soaking wet, there's a chance I may need some new springs to get it right for me. As a fast intermediate or slow advanced rider, I'm not fast enough to be limited by the bike.
The front fork and the rear shock preload adjustments come from the factory at the unloaded position. The front fork hex was very stuck on many of the 15/16 front forks. The direction however you should be going to even see if you can get it to move is turn it right. Same on the rear shock. It is unloaded, so you would turn it right. Only use 6 point sockets on the adjustment hex. Dont use 12 point sockets. I have no clue what is in the tool kit to use because my dealer I brought my K67 from forgot to give it to me, then it is lost in the mail him shipping it to me. The tools usually in the tool kit work as long as things are in good easy working order. So use 6 point sockets first if you feel you must try to work with it.

Based on your weight you indicate, you will leave it in the fully unloaded position. Dont strip edges off the adjustments, let the dealer mess with it and they will see it is messed up from the factory and replace them. I had a rear shock leaking around the gas reservoir and they replaced it under warranty back on my 2015.
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Last edited by BMW_388; 06-14-2019 at 08:14 AM.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 08:29 AM
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Does the owner's manual ask you to have the key on before you adjust preload like the previous gen?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 08:29 AM
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Also, check your manual for the procedure. On the earlier bikes it is necessary to have the ignition on when adjusting rear preload.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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You are correct, the bike is supposed to be running when making adjustments.
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