The list is going to be long on the differences. Some are good, some not so good. Since I have the 2015, and 2018 with a total of 40000 miles between them, this brings me to knowing some extensive differences to share as I put more miles on my new 2020 K67. ( currently at 500 miles 06/10/19 )
I am about to leave now for a ride, but I wanted to put some food for thought and upon my return today, I have lots of pics to share, and post ride info of my soon to be 600 miles under the break in limiter. The limiter on this K67 is 9k RPM and 124 MPH. The K46 was 9K @ 129 MPH. I will look at the final drive ratios and see if there is a slight difference there or maybe its just the algro they are using in this cluster vs the K46 cluster.
Lots of pics to come! Stay tuned and feel free to post your experience if you have the K46 and the new K67 also. This thread should bring you to the conclusion of should you buy the K46 and stay with the proven platform, or go big on the new K67 and wait it out for the next shipment to come.
Lets start with the sound of the engine. I use to think my 2015 was rattling too much starting at about 3k miles. Turned out most of that was the header exhaust flapper valve. BMW engineers decided that was no longer needed on the K67, the front flapper is gone. The cross over tubes are now 1 to 4, and the usual 2 to 3. Later on at about 13000 miles on my 15, the engine started ticking like it was a shim issue. It was light enough of a tick I decided to just check it at about 18k. That however went on into 24k miles before I checked. The shims were still spot on. Turned out it was the timing chain. It had stretched enough it was damaged. I replaced the chain, ran the shim spacing numbers, and blocked off the PAIR tube structure. The K67 is a noisy engine. I cannot believe at only 300 miles the engine is already ticking like a shim is out of spec. I changed the oil and filter. It is still ticking. On the positive side, the metal content on the magnet of the drain plug is near nothing. My 15 had metal chunks. My 18 had metal shavings. It was 6k miles before my 15 stopped showing metal on the drain plug, the 18 stopped already and it is at 6500 miles. So that is positive for the build of the K67 engine, it appears to be very clean and well sorted with its parts. It however makes alot of ticking. I called another forum member this morning and asked him his opinion. He indicated his is ticking. We agreed to just call it normal for now.
The all important BRAKES ! If you are going to go fast, you have to stop sometime. Brembo was on the 09-19 and the caliper was gold in color. The HP4 12-14 got the better M4 caliper which was the OEM version of a monoblock. The gold caliper is the one being replaced on the 2020 with a Hayes Caliper. Hayes as company you can look it up. How this new caliper stops the 2020 is the important part here. The caliper actually works well on the street. I can only rate it right now for street riding, but, my street riding is a bit above pace for most people. So if you are going fast, you have to stop sometime. So far the bit point of the caliper is consistent. I would say that when you let the bike cool completely off, and then you take off riding, there is a 3 stop rule that the calipers need to warm a bit. Once the calipers are in the least above ambient temps, they start to work consistent. I have only got 500 miles on them to this point. If something serious comes up, I will come back and add to this area of interest.
The QuickShifter. The evolution of this super great device from the 15/16 on the BMSX to the 17/18/19 on the BMSMP ECU's. The code controls the QS and BMW continues to refine that code. If you notice the QS is completely redesigned on the K67. This thing shifts like a seamless MotoGP transmission. The transmission gears have been upgraded as you would expect with a newly redesigned engine platform. There is a distinct straight cut gear whine in this transmission compared to the K46. I upgraded my QS on my 18 to the HP4 RACE unit and it worked very well also.
Put it on a rear stand? No problem. The spools fit from the previous models of swingarm. So you can order spools from 09-19 and they will work. The pitbull rear stand then works exactly to size from the previous models as well.
The steering damper is flipped around on the K67. The adjustment knob is on the left side instead of the right side of the bike. Typical clicks for soft to really firm on left to right steering.
The rider seat now is secured with one bolt right in the center. The ///M logo is a suede material that moves easy enough to get the torex bit down in there to remove screw. IMO – The seat is hard as a brick. I really don’t like it at all. I plan to order the lower seat height version in hopes it is more comfortable, but if it is not, then I have a seat to send somewhere and they can repack this stock unit. I love the previous K46 seat. It was just right in firmness and soft comfort.
Why does the Power Commander not work on the K67? I see this question and I can tell you now why. The injectors on the throttle bodies are completely different connector design. See picture. The upper injectors on the air box are the same connection design as the K46, but the lower ones on the throttle bodies are a newer design. It is possible this new injector is different in PWM and new drivers are needed on the PCV to run these injectors.
The fuel cap is the same unit from the K46. What does this mean? Well, the K46 fuel caps from companies like Driven, Lightech, Vortex, and many others will fit 100%. See my pics of my Driven Halo with blue cap insert.
How big is the K46 ABS unit compared to the K67? Wow, what a change switching from Bosch to the Continental ABS unit. I will get around to weighting them, but the size is easy to see huge weight savings.
Save some more weight? The battery in the ///M. It is unreal the size of the black box they call a battery compared to the weight of it. That is not a battery. I am not sure what is inside that black box, but it only weights 2lbs 8oz. The smallest battery for the K46 I have is AGM at 4lbs 10oz. The alternator and the voltage regulator must be some new tech going on to run everything as well as it appears to.
The removal of the fairings on the K67 is alot better in some places, and the re-fitment back together is especially nice. There is dual lock velcro that holds the fuel tank cowl. Remove the screws and you will put up on two sides. At first you will think it will break, but it helps to know the location of the velcro strips. See pics below.
The air filter is completely different on the K67. Its larger. Its alot easier to get in and out of the air box. See pics.
The clutch release is completely different on the K67 compared to the K46. If you have released the clutch on the K46 you will note its engagement point was not too far from full pull in, to just starting engagement at release. The K67 is forever out away from the bar contact point. It is even almost at the end of the travel release point it finally starts to engage the clutch pack.
Mode selection on the K67. Your choices are Rain Road Dynamic Race on the standard model. On the ///M model you jump from Race to Race Pro 1 / 2 / 3 modes. The ‘Red’ bike can be ordered with Ride Mode Pro options which then gives it Race Pro 1 / 2 / 3 modes.
The cluster differences between the K46 and the K67 are so different, you could write a book on this alone. Missing is the engine temp on the main tach/speedo screens. Missing is the ability to adjust the target air pressure so you leave the alarm on for the tire pressure monitoring.
The function wheel on the right side takes some getting used to as it is in the way of getting to the turn signal indictors. Its very easy to use while riding however. Since I do get curious about the temp of the engine, I flip to the information screen while riding along.
Gears count 6
Primary ratio 1.652
Final drive 2.647
1. gear 2.647 ( 92 mph)
2. gear 2.091 (117 mph)
3. gear 1.727 (141 mph)
4. gear 1.5 (162 mph)
5. gear 1.36 (179 mph)
6. gear 1.261 (193 mph)
Gearbox Constant mesh 6-speed gearbox
Primary ratio (1.652)
Secondary (final ratio) (2.647)
Brake Rotors – K46 with 5.5mm 320mm 30mm offset made by Brembo. K67 comes with 5.0mm 320mm 30mm offset made by Brembo. It is my opinion BMW engineers convinced someone that thinner is needed to knock off weight. I hope it does not sacrifice in performance on the track due to heat warping.
The K67 transmission actuation is reversed. It comes in the position of what was the old K46 GP Shift position. See picture below.
The heated grips are a softer feeling rubber. I measured the diameter between the K46 and K67.. both are within .010
The brake lines are no longer the JL Juan that were on the K46. The new supplier is GoodRidge Brake Lines.
The HP Lever will work on the brake master. The brake master is the same Nissin as on the K46.
The clutch side on the K67 however is completely different. Come on ASV, get some levers.
The oil filter so really easy to change now. I did my first oil change at 250 miles. The oil plug had very little metal shavings on it. I will send the oil to BlackStone Labs in IL for analysis.
This has got to be a coding mistake. You can upshift with the cruise control on and set. IE….. set cruise speed at 70MPH and decide you need to upshift, no problem, just upshift and the cruise control does not disable and the RPM’s just move down. The 15-19 K46 releases the cruise control and you must reset.
The cruise control does not ‘hunt’ the speed near as bad when you enter a corner that is sharp enough you move to 20-30 degrees lean angle. The 15-19 K46 will roll back the speed and go back up, go back down, go back up.. depending on how long the corner is anyway. IE… go find a nice long corner, set cruise speed at whatever you feel is safe. Dive into the corner and get some lean angle and note the speed is pretty consistent. If you have not rode a K46 doing this, you will not appreciate this change.
The aero dynamics of this new body is amazing. I went 186MPH several times today and the bike never felt like it wanted to lift and move around. My K46 seemed to feel like it wanted to lift the front end at anything over 160. STI laptimer on the bike 179 GPS top speed. It appears that the cluster is locked to 186 MPH. That is the most I saw and I was about 14k RPM…
Front tire was already at the wear markers on the edges at 750 miles. So I changed the front to Pirelli SuperCorsa SC1 DOT racing tire. The RaceTec was out of balance. The new Pirelli resolved some of the vibrations in the front end. The rear tire was almost at the wear markers, but I could have got another run at Ida road which would have been 900 miles on it. I changed it to a BridgeStone RS10R-G .. I really like this tire on the street. It will grain very well and provides excellent grip down to near bald slick.
The 15-19 K46 Lightech chain / axle sliders will fit and work on the K67. However it is not 100% and I cannot recommend other people to do it. Just wait on the official 2020 K67 versions. I provided pics, as they do look good on the black swingarm.
VEERING of the K46 and does the K67 have it? Mine does not, and two more ///M I ride with do not VEER. They track as straight as an arrow. We set the cruise, hands off waving at people just relaxing a mile or so down the road with no issues.
I have now completed my 600 miles June 10, 2019.. that took 3 days. Should have only been 2, but the rain on one day was really bad and I was limited to half day ride.
I have my 9K limiter removed now. Still have the vibrations in the bars at 8k up to about 10k.