Hey guys, It's been a week since my gorgeous lady has been experiencing gearbox problems. ((((
For some reason shifting from 2nd to 3rd or vice versa is very difficult, by that I mean I depress clutch and push gear selector trying to downgear and it feels like it's the last gear however gear selector has more travel, exactly the same happens from 3rd to 2nd.

Other gears work perfectly fine using QS.

Took it to a local mechanic, he looked from outside and quoted 1200 to strip the box and estimated 2000 in repairs.

Considering my bike is used for recreational purposes I find it hard to fork out that much so I decided I could disassemble the gearbox and see if I could find issue myself.

Anyone had similar issues or knows about gearboxes and what could be wrong, highly appreciated.

To remove gearbox, do I actually need to remove the whole engine or can I access it after removing clutch plate cover?

Lots of talk on this topic. Use the search function and have a read. @regulusracing can help you out.

Could be a number of things. In my case it was the selector shaft on my 2012.

You do need to remove the engine for access to the transmission. Pulling the clutch cover and clutch will give you access to the selector shaft and shift star.

Also, be aware that a lot of the fasteners will need replaced because they are one time use only. Some, like the main case bolts, are kind of expensive.

If it is only the 2-3 and 3-2 shift, I would look at the shift forks. You would see wear and burnishing on the tips of the fork if it is bent.

There is a slim chance that the shift star/engagement pins could be the culprit. This could be checked by pulling the clutch. It would be worth checking this before pulling the engine.

There has been talk on whether you can remove the lower main case while leaving the engine in the frame. I never heard the final determination on whether this is possible though. Proper and best plan would be to remove the engine in my opinion. These bikes are too expensive to be cutting corners when doing maintenance and repairs.

Heck of a lot easier to pull the engine and flip it upside down for gearbox extraction. Trying to do that in the bike would be NO fun. But I'd try some other things first. How many km on the motor, what oil do you use and how often is it changed? Have you ever found any large bits of metal on the drain plug magnet?

16k/km on the clock, last service was done 2 month ago at bmw dealer, I believe they used castrol oil 5w40, I also changed oil and filter like 5 month ago and I couldn't find any big particles on the drain bolt. I stripped the clutch side a week ago to see if it was an easy fix but couldn't find much and took it for a quote. This time when I drained oil it was also clean, hair thin shave of steel but again only a very small amount. no broken pieces.

Where can I find which bolts and nuts I need to purchase after I remove them?

You would need the service DVD to find which bolts are single use. Perhaps someone on this forum could look this up for you.
I would definitely look at the selector shaft as others have suggested before taking it further apart.

Part # Qty Price Each Note

11147724485 9 $2.33 One time use bolts--clutch cover
11148527544 1 $23.06 Gasket--may be able to use original over again.
21217715324 1 $47.32 Collar Nut-Clutch--One time use.
23008528164 1 $263.11 Selector Shaft--This is new part #. BMW changed design.

You will also need a tool like this:

This post got me to thinking, since the OP mentioned using a QS on the bike.

Does the frequent use of the QS on the newer RR's impose additional stresses on the transmission that are not present when using the clutch?

+1
I've heard a few words on this matter. Lately I've been using the clutch more from 1-3 in low rpm situations 5-6k and below. Past 7-8k I use qs. I would hope qs in general would not be detrimental to bike. Especially Bmw qs designed for bmw bike.

/TJ