UPDATE 10/9/17: The embedded photos below are no longer valid. I'm unable to embed the photos within the text, so here's a link to the album showing all photos I took during the procedure: https://photos.app.goo.gl/YKYms1CJFu3sUxXW2
Pump the damper several times to remove all the oil inside of it. See how dark the old oil is in the cup?
Here are all the internals:
Now it’s time to reinstall the parts, starting with the damper. Make sure the end of the damper lines up correctly inside the fork leg so it’s properly seated.
Reinstall the bolt in the bottom of the fork to secure the damper (30Nm). Again, make sure the damper was lined up correctly to properly seat in the bottom of the fork leg. Now it’s time to fill with fork oil. I went with Silkolene Racing SAE 10. OEM is SAE 7.5 and Dave Moss recommends SAE 15. If I feel #10 is still too light, I’ll go with #15 when I change the fluid again. The quantity to fill is 602ml. Since I don’t have precise measuring cups, I filled an empty fork oil bottle to about 600 ml and slowly poured it into the fork tube.
You now have to pump the damping rod several times to get the fluid inside the rod. Again, not having the proper tool to thread on top of the rod, I simply used needle nose pliers and gently gripped the top of the damper rod and pulled it up and down several times. I then let the oil settle for about 15 minutes before I took my first measurement. Using my high tech tape measure, I took a few measurements and found the oil level just a few mm low from recommended air space (90mm). I poured a little more oil in to get it set right at 90mm from the surface of the oil to the top of the lower fork leg (not the top of the upper fork leg!). I forgot to take a photo showing the correct level. Sorry!
Now it’s time to put the rest of the internals back in. Start with the metal washer that goes below the spring, then the spring itself, then the washer on top of the spring, then the plastic spacer. Put the fork back in the spring compression tool and crank down on the spring until the damping rod and lock nut will extend out of the plastic spacer. I used needle nose pliers to gently pull up the damper rod to thread the top nut on the rod. Be careful not to mess up the threads on the damper rod!
Screw the top nut down until it tightens slightly from “bottom” out on the damper (not on the lock nut!). You may need to use a flat head screw driver (or some other flat tool like the wire cutters you see in the photos) wedged under the lock nut to keep it above the plastic spacer.
Now you need to check the number of clicks for the rebound. If you count 10 total clicks, you’re good to go. I found by tightening the top cap until it was snug (or bottomed out) on the damper rod, that was the correct position to get 10 clicks on rebound settings. However, if you have 9 or less clicks, you need to raise the top nut on the threaded damper rod. Check the number of clicks. If you have 11 or more clicks, you need to lower the top nut on the threaded damper rod. Check the number of clicks each time you raise, or lower the top cap on the damper rod to get it set at 10 clicks. No more, no less. Once it’s correct, tighten the lock nut to 20Nm and set the rebound to the number you noted at the beginning of the project.
Release the spring compression tool and the internals should be tight against each other.
Continued in the next reply: