Our 220+ hp S1000RR burns slipper clutches Stuter... - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-15-2017, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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Question Our 220+ hp S1000RR burns slipper clutches Stuter...

Clutch1 picture https://imagebin.ca/v/3dr5scV881bl
Clutch2 picture https://imagebin.ca/v/3dr6LekaElyr

It is really losing power on the clutch! And after 3 Quali's and 1 race they are gone! Someone a tip here?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-15-2017, 10:32 AM
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Slipping? Can you try a heavyer springs?
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-15-2017, 10:49 AM
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Man, 220hp, that thing would be a grenade
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-15-2017, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWMPower View Post
Clutch1 picture https://imagebin.ca/v/3dr5scV881bl
Clutch2 picture https://imagebin.ca/v/3dr6LekaElyr

It is really losing power on the clutch! And after 3 Quali's and 1 race they are gone! Someone a tip here?
Submerge these in the same oil that will be in the pan, for 24 hours.
They are much much better than OEM.
https://store.schnitzracing.com/ape-...s1000rr-10-15/

Add these at the same time, both of these components will fit all years RR, Schnitz should update their site.
https://store.schnitzracing.com/broc...s1000rr-10-13/

I strongly doubt you will have any more issues. How's the basket?

EDIT: Pull the pan and clean the interior out completely before putting the new components in, or you will be back here again. If you have already changed the clutchpack once before now, without pulling the oil pan, it is most likely why the newest clutchpack failed. New oil filter too.
I don't think the BMW service manual recommends this, but I also think that is because it is dealing with simple replacement of worn parts. These are not worn parts, they're obliterated. The crap that came off the frictions are still in the pan. I know this from experience, it will NOT simply drain out with the oil.
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Last edited by 5150 Pops; 10-15-2017 at 11:25 AM.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-15-2017, 11:47 AM
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@BMWMPower are you using a Suter clutch setup?

If yes, you may want to consider going back to OEM.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-15-2017, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corkgsxr View Post
Slipping? Can you try a heavyer springs?
Stuter does not have "springs" but sort off...but they have indeed some discs with Nmters

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-15-2017, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5150 Pops View Post
Submerge these in the same oil that will be in the pan, for 24 hours.
They are much much better than OEM.
https://store.schnitzracing.com/ape-...s1000rr-10-15/

Add these at the same time, both of these components will fit all years RR, Schnitz should update their site.
https://store.schnitzracing.com/broc...s1000rr-10-13/

I strongly doubt you will have any more issues. How's the basket?

EDIT: Pull the pan and clean the interior out completely before putting the new components in, or you will be back here again. If you have already changed the clutchpack once before now, without pulling the oil pan, it is most likely why the newest clutchpack failed. New oil filter too.
I don't think the BMW service manual recommends this, but I also think that is because it is dealing with simple replacement of worn parts. These are not worn parts, they're obliterated. The crap that came off the frictions are still in the pan. I know this from experience, it will NOT simply drain out with the oil.
Thanks! We will look into this

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-15-2017, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5150 Pops View Post
@BMWMPower are you using a Suter clutch setup?

If yes, you may want to consider going back to OEM.
Yes we do. They have some options. OEM is not preferred cause the slipper clutch is giving a great feeling for our driver.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 08:50 AM
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Question You have to buy both?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5150 Pops View Post
Submerge these in the same oil that will be in the pan, for 24 hours.
They are much much better than OEM.
https://store.schnitzracing.com/ape-...s1000rr-10-15/

Add these at the same time, both of these components will fit all years RR, Schnitz should update their site.
https://store.schnitzracing.com/broc...s1000rr-10-13/

I strongly doubt you will have any more issues. How's the basket?

EDIT: Pull the pan and clean the interior out completely before putting the new components in, or you will be back here again. If you have already changed the clutchpack once before now, without pulling the oil pan, it is most likely why the newest clutchpack failed. New oil filter too.
I don't think the BMW service manual recommends this, but I also think that is because it is dealing with simple replacement of worn parts. These are not worn parts, they're obliterated. The crap that came off the frictions are still in the pan. I know this from experience, it will NOT simply drain out with the oil.
Why do you have to buy both products?
Also what is the difference between these two:
1) https://store.schnitzracing.com/broc...-17-hp4-13-14/
2) https://brocksperformance.com/heavy-...-18-hp4-13-14/

(See at the bottom in the page it will say the other product is required to use it)
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-31-2018, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmoniVisuals View Post
Why do you have to buy both products?
Also what is the difference between these two:
1) https://store.schnitzracing.com/broc...-17-hp4-13-14/
2) https://brocksperformance.com/heavy-...-18-hp4-13-14/

(See at the bottom in the page it will say the other product is required to use it)
Those are the same product AFAIK, one sold from a great distributor, and one sold directly from the source, also a vendor here.

As far as buying both being required...if you go straight to the entity who designed the kit, (Brock Davidson of Brock's performance) you will get the answer you seek.

To further confuse you...I did NOT install the back torque limiter collar in my 2014, BUT I did buy the other kit for convenience. The convenience of having stainless steel clutch cover screws/bolts already sourced, so I could easily/quickly change shims in the pressure plate if I felt froggie. Those aluminum screws that hold most of the covers to this engine, are all one time use, NOT meant to be reused, after initial installation at the factory.

Bottom line, if you're going to modify your bike, and not implicitly follow professional advice (Brock's, not mine) then be prepared for undesirable results.
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