Slowing down methods??

**nightdevil** · 10-12-2011, 02:16 PM

So Curious how you all are able to slow down so quickly on the straights before the turn. At Summit Point turn 1... I'm usually take the lead but could easily loose it by turn 1 leaving the straight away. Basically I need much more time for slowing than others... I feel like I cannot slow that quickly from say 140 to 55mph in that short span (where they have the 5 cones). When I tried braking more firmly (i.e. turn 5) my front wheel started to vibrate (not so much abs, but maybe). If I would learn to swing my bike over maintain control while braking "abruptly" and "turning" I would be okay.

Thoughts?

MD-Dave · 10-12-2011, 02:35 PM

Turn 5 is a scary place to try and slow down quickly since you are going downhill.
Are you using the slipper clutch to downshift quickly? I tried riding in lower gears and keeping the revs up higher this last time and it helped with the engine braking.

Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app

S1000RR ROB · 10-12-2011, 02:37 PM

suspension setting, tyres, body position is about all your going to have to play with there i reckon mate..

its a question everyone will ask at some point, its all about personal preference and feel ohh and money obviously lol....

kinda a difficult question, go have a meeting at the track with the ohlins bloke.

Stang10189 · 10-12-2011, 10:21 PM

one thing is down shifting at the end of a str8 I'm down shifting keeping the bikes rpm high. down shift around 11,000 allowing the motor to do some of the braking. make shore your not putting all your body weight on the bar when braking. the front end will shake under hard braking but if the back tire is staying on the ground u can brake harder. the good thing about Tc is your front tire will not lock up. a good way to start is start braking at the first cone then start at the second cone and so on. if your TC is in sport mode it wont let the rear tire come off the ground so u can use that as a gauge as to how hard you really are braking. if u see the TC light flash well brake using the front brake only and your front tire did not lock up for a split second most likely your rear tire started to lift meaning you are braking hard for a new track rider, if your rear is not starting to life you can still brake harder but as the post above stated body position, weight on bars, down shifting all are important to how the bike will act under heavy braking.
one thing you should check is your pads and fluid. changing the fluid if needed will make a major improvement in your brakes and the feel of the handle. good luck hope this helps

**JACOX** · 10-12-2011, 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nightdevil

So Curious how you all are able to slow down so quickly on the straights before the turn. At Summit Point turn 1... I'm usually take the lead but could easily loose it by turn 1 leaving the straight away. Basically I need much more time for slowing than others... I feel like I cannot slow that quickly from say 140 to 55mph in that short span (where they have the 5 cones). When I tried braking more firmly (i.e. turn 5) my front wheel started to vibrate (not so much abs, but maybe). If I would learn to swing my bike over maintain control while braking "abruptly" and "turning" I would be okay.

Thoughts?

Summit Point is an interesting track, with the elevation changes. The key to speed is the entrance to the front straight. But given your concern is braking at the end of the front straight, carrying a lot of speed, my first thought, having raced there, is take the inside (right) track line, stay straight up & trust the bike's hard braking with TC/ABS, shift weight slightly rear, stay straight, and late break into the turn, releasing to lean into the turn, but maybe with slight rear trail-brake pressure as your body & bike lean into a tight apex turn, no touch on the front brake, and then accelerate smoothly from the early apex. Really pretty abstract in words, but the simple version is you may be braking too early due to the fast closing rate on the turn.

**Nomad** · 10-13-2011, 12:24 AM

Braking is an area you should approach with some common sense and caution. It's very easy to crash if done wrong.

Keep in mind that the bike is capable of standing on it's front wheel at practically any speed. There's that much power in the braking system and that much traction (on a clean track). We're talking just front brake at this point.

What's important to remember is this. If you lock the front, you can't steer. If you can't steer, you can't balance the bike. If this happens in a straight line you'll have about a second to realize it's happening and release some brake to get the wheel spinning again. if this happens while you're leaned (even slightly) you'll have fractions of a second to do the same.

My point is this, practice getting a feel for what the bike can do on the brakes while straight up and down. If you screw up you can probably save it. Just let go of the brakes and the bike will snap back upright.

Don't depend on ABS. Yeah it works but not always so always be prepared to react on your own.

Brake early. If you have to release the brakes and recover you'll need extra track. Make sure youre in the right group too. Don't ride A group and stab the brakes halfway down the front straight. Somebody will collect you. Make sure you leave room for bikes to get around you. Don't hug the extreme edge of the track because you only leave one direction for bikes to pass you.

Work up to it gradually. This is an art, not a science. Things will change from lap to lap, day to day, etc.

Most important, try to brake in a straight line til you really get it and be firm but smooth in your brake application and steering inputs.

If you have a dirt bike or would consider one, they are a great way to learn many recovery skills without much risk. Speeds are slower but the basics are the same just slowed down.

Hope that helps and be very careful. This could be dangerous. Find someone to help out in person. There are many bad things one might do that a post won't spot and stop you from hurting yourself with.

da2lip · 10-13-2011, 02:24 AM

Thanks guys for all the comments. I was having the same issue at my local track here in sunny Cape Town. Hitting turn 1 flet like my bike was not stopping in time. Afterward cahtted to my instructor and told me not to blip. Rather let the slipper clutch do its job and use the engine braking.. I've been working on that now on the road as I've not been back to the track yet and I can feel the difference. I'm braking later into my normal twisties now and I'm getting he bike to a speed I'm comfortable with.

**1000RR** · 10-13-2011, 09:46 AM

Some good suggestions above... I would also suggest you work on getting your vision up and out. My guess is that it is only in your head that you're going in too fast. The bike will likely handle it. Your mind is telling you "oh shitt". If you get your vision up and out, you'll be impressed with how much things around you slow down and you will naturally find that you're going faster into and around turn 1 (and others)

**Travist1161732** · 10-13-2011, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by da2lip

Thanks guys for all the comments. I was having the same issue at my local track here in sunny Cape Town. Hitting turn 1 flet like my bike was not stopping in time. Afterward cahtted to my instructor and told me not to blip. Rather let the slipper clutch do its job and use the engine braking.. I've been working on that now on the road as I've not been back to the track yet and I can feel the difference. I'm braking later into my normal twisties now and I'm getting he bike to a speed I'm comfortable with.

Heh, I'm trying the opposite now. I watched twist of wrist 2 a bunch and the section where he's talking about blipping (clutch in, gas on and off, clutch out) was unknown to me, it has made downshifting much smoother, but takes some work (I have to think about it still). When at the track though, I wasn't doing this and used engine braking (no blips) after the straights, this got my speed down quite a bit and I never felt uncomfortable with the speed into the turn (adding brake while engine braking was plenty). I know this is basic stuff, but now I'm trying to blip while downshifting more to save the clutch. I know it's a slipper clutch, but it still doesn't feel right engine braking. I can see though that if I do this at the track, I will be going much quicker into the turns. Anyone with a slipper clutch had to replace discs sooner than they thought? Just curious. Brakes are cheap, engines are not, as they say.....