Track day on a stock bike

[ElDiablo]

I'm about to do Laguna Seca on March 10th. Here are some questions:

- what tire pressure do you run on stock tires for a track day?
- should I remove the mirrors...do I need to buy anything to hold the fairings in place?
- how do I disconnect the lights the easy way?
- is it easy just to remove the rear fender or leave it
- should I leave rear pegs to help me strap the bike?
- what suspension setup do you recommend that I start with I'm 200LBS
- should I ride in sport or race mode?

[1000RR]

Originally Posted by ElDiablo

I'm about to do Laguna Seca on March 10th. Here are some questions:

- what tire pressure do you run on stock tires for a track day? I ran 28/30 with good results on the K3's
- should I remove the mirrors...do I need to buy anything to hold the fairings in place? If you don't have block off plates, just put a zip tie through the hole and around the fairing
- how do I disconnect the lights the easy way? front signals you pretty much have to unbolt the fairing... or just tape them up
- is it easy just to remove the rear fender or leave it... easy to remove it... three bolts and a plug
- should I leave rear pegs to help me strap the bike? Leave em on... strapping to them is good.
- what suspension setup do you recommend that I start with I'm 200LBS, your book has some recommendations but that is for a ~185lb person. When I went, the biggest issue I had was the drive out of the corners.. I kept going high on the track when throttling out and would have to feather back on the throttle... put some more preload in the rear and she was like a razor... you'll likely just have to see what happens when you get out there... but I would at least start w/what your manual says for aggressive riding and maybe go slightly more than that.
- should I ride in sport or race mode? Depends on how smooth you are with the throttle. In race mode, if you're not smooth, the bike will definitely let you know... if you find the bike to be jerky (i.e. you aren't being smooth w/the throttle) put it in sport mode and it will be smooth for you.

And most of all... have fun out there!

[ElDiablo]

Thank you

Do I leave the headlights on or should I pull a fuse? I don't know how the computer will react to it.

[1000RR]

Originally Posted by ElDiablo

Thank you

Do I leave the headlights on or should I pull a fuse? I don't know how the computer will react to it.

Just tape them, leave em plugged in. The computer will throw a code if you unplug them. I believe if you're in slick mode, you won't get an error. When/if you unplug your signals, just don't try out your turn signal switch, or you'll get a little error on the dash that covers up the area where your temp readout is... to get rid of it, you just have to turn the bike off and back on again.

[DrIoannis]

Even in slick mode the light error will appear.The above instructions are very good but in my opinion install also the slick plug.Have fun...

[1000RR]

Originally Posted by DrIoannis

Even in slick mode the light error will appear.The above instructions are very good but in my opinion install also the slick plug.Have fun...

I could have swore that someone posted that if you get the latest flash from BMW, that having the slick plug installed along with being in slick mode would prevent those errors?! I know they were planning on rolling that "patch" out, but thought they already did.

[edchung]

Regarding headlights, Keigwin doesn't require you to tape them, and I think the "tape rule" is a relic of glass headlights on cars. Just make sure you pull the fuse so the headlights don't come on. You shouldn't get a code if you pull the fuse.

[Thugsfatboy]

Just be careful if you do tape the headlights as have seen some damaged from heat and the type of tape used

Ride to your level of confidence and have fun,beware the red mist

[Betelgeuzed]

First observation and recommendation, spend $200 and get frame, fork, and swingarm sliders/protectors! Best money you can spend that can save you thousands of $$$ in repairs if/when you go down! I went down on turn 11 last year at Laguna, slowest turn on the track, and had it not been for swingarm and frame sliders, I would have been a very sad man...end result, not a scratch on my bike, a little jarred, and glad to have had the first one out of the way, could not have been a better circumstance.

I'm assuming you are a novice also, per your questions. Thus, even if you are an experienced track rider, the best $40 you could spend at the track is toward suspension tuning with Dave Moss of Catalyst Reaction...he will be there, and he is incredibly knowledgeable, articulate in a way that is very easy to understand a complex system (riding), and just a really good guy. Initially he will adjust your sag which is imperative, and then adjust your rebound and compression per evaluating your tire wear...he's freakin' amazing at this!
Other advice, do not listen to others advice regarding suspension! Your weight certainly can be used as a starting point, however there is no standard for suspension setting. Everyone rides differently, and until one is able to discern how their riding style affects the feel of the bike and can adjust accordingly, which may take years, "hire" a professional while at the track. Your bike will be much more fun, controlled, and safer, all allowing you to eventually ride faster.
Some folks on here may disagree, and that's ok. Many people will want to help and give you their opinion on suspension settings, but unless they are there watching you ride or seeing your tread patterne, advice is just about useless.

My other recommendations you asked about:

-remove your mirrors, period! It's easy, unobstructed view helps, use zip ties for the hole to secure the fairing.

-I would not worry about taping the lights, I ran and will run with lights on until I get my race bodywork, it is allowed with Keigwins.

-rear fender (mud guard?), no need to remove, if so, you will just have dirty underseat and rear shock.

- it is quite easy to remove the turn signals, and again not really necessary

- rear light, not sure of an easy switch removal, black or blue tape will suffice

- Sport or race? - they are two different bikes in these modes, in my opinion. Stick with sport mode in the beginning, much smoother throttle response, will help you ride smoother and quicker as a beginning track rider. The bike feels like it's on steroids in Race and Slick, and until one hones their skills, not recommended.

And as others have posted, ride to your comfort level and have fun! And relax!! Relaxed body position, let the bike do the work. I will be out there also, thunder grey s1k, #8, riding in the A group. Oh yeah, they will require a # on the front right and rear side of your bike.

Cheers!

[ElDiablo]

Originally Posted by Betelgeuzed

First observation and recommendation, spend $200 and get frame, fork, and swingarm sliders/protectors! Best money you can spend that can save you thousands of $$$ in repairs if/when you go down! I went down on turn 11 last year at Laguna, slowest turn on the track, and had it not been for swingarm and frame sliders, I would have been a very sad man...end result, not a scratch on my bike, a little jarred, and glad to have had the first one out of the way, could not have been a better circumstance.

I'm assuming you are a novice also, per your questions. Thus, even if you are an experienced track rider, the best $40 you could spend at the track is toward suspension tuning with Dave Moss of Catalyst Reaction...he will be there, and he is incredibly knowledgeable, articulate in a way that is very easy to understand a complex system (riding), and just a really good guy. Initially he will adjust your sag which is imperative, and then adjust your rebound and compression per evaluating your tire wear...he's freakin' amazing at this!
Other advice, do not listen to others advice regarding suspension! Your weight certainly can be used as a starting point, however there is no standard for suspension setting. Everyone rides differently, and until one is able to discern how their riding style affects the feel of the bike and can adjust accordingly, which may take years, "hire" a professional while at the track. Your bike will be much more fun, controlled, and safer, all allowing you to eventually ride faster.
Some folks on here may disagree, and that's ok. Many people will want to help and give you their opinion on suspension settings, but unless they are there watching you ride or seeing your tread patterne, advice is just about useless.

My other recommendations you asked about:

-remove your mirrors, period! It's easy, unobstructed view helps, use zip ties for the hole to secure the fairing.

-I would not worry about taping the lights, I ran and will run with lights on until I get my race bodywork, it is allowed with Keigwins.

-rear fender (mud guard?), no need to remove, if so, you will just have dirty underseat and rear shock.

- it is quite easy to remove the turn signals, and again not really necessary

- rear light, not sure of an easy switch removal, black or blue tape will suffice

- Sport or race? - they are two different bikes in these modes, in my opinion. Stick with sport mode in the beginning, much smoother throttle response, will help you ride smoother and quicker as a beginning track rider. The bike feels like it's on steroids in Race and Slick, and until one hones their skills, not recommended.

And as others have posted, ride to your comfort level and have fun! And relax!! Relaxed body position, let the bike do the work. I will be out there also, thunder grey s1k, #8, riding in the A group. Oh yeah, they will require a # on the front right and rear side of your bike.

Cheers!

Thanks for your feedback and I'll see you there.