Gearing

[fullthrottle189]

I just changed the sprockets today. I went 16t front and 45t rear. In 6th gear at the rev limit it does 180 indicated. For the street the stock sprocket combo IMO is very good. The gearing mentioned above allows the bike to pull much harder sooner and definately reaches the top of each gear a lot faster. I did a roll on at 70 miles an hour in 6th gear. The result was 180miles an hour indicated at about a half a mile + or - a few feet. At 70 the bike is turning a little over 5300 RPMs a little much if your going to ride long distances. I'm going to go with the 17t front and going to leave the 45t rear just because its on there and put the 16t front on when the bike hits the track otherwise the gearing that the bike comes with is more than adequate to do the job on the street.

[1000RR]

A gearing change is a great mod for little money... one of the best bangs for the buck.

I'm running a 16/46 (-1,+2) and am fine at highway speeds. Sure the RPMs are up there a little more, but makes for good responsiveness when needed... and still get just shy of 40mpg with a PCV and AutoTuner going.

[everyones.uh.critic]

Originally Posted by 1000RR

A gearing change is a great mod for little money... one of the best bangs for the buck.

I'm running a 16/46 (-1,+2) and am fine at highway speeds. Sure the RPMs are up there a little more, but makes for good responsiveness when needed... and still get just shy of 40mpg with a PCV and AutoTuner going.

Would you mind offering up some more detailed info on gearing down the way you have it?

I'm interested in doing some minimal gearing down for a little more low end/mid range on the street. Already ditched the stock exhaust and went for a PCV.. now looking for the next project. Pictures or a link to a good set of instructions would be much appreciated. thx.

[mik1000rr]

i found that +2 rear is perfect for me at the track :-D more engine braking and better acceleration in all gears but you will notice that the second gear is more tendance to wheeli up
and i saw some guys setup at the track putting a 18 tooth front for more usable first gear !

[1000RR]

Originally Posted by mik1000rr

i found that +2 rear is perfect for me at the track :-D more engine braking and better acceleration in all gears but you will notice that the second gear is more tendance to wheeli up
and i saw some guys setup at the track putting a 18 tooth front for more usable first gear !

If you had a bike setup with an 18 and then went +2 in the rear, that would come close to negating the +2 in the rear. Not saying you did that, but if the other guy at the track did

[1000RR]

Originally Posted by everyones.uh.critic

Would you mind offering up some more detailed info on gearing down the way you have it?

I'm interested in doing some minimal gearing down for a little more low end/mid range on the street. Already ditched the stock exhaust and went for a PCV.. now looking for the next project. Pictures or a link to a good set of instructions would be much appreciated. thx.

Front: Front Sprocket Install

Rear: For the rear, just remove the rear wheel, then remove the 5 nuts on the sprocket. Swap sprockets, tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 110Nm. Reinstall wheel. Manual says you should replace the nuts. I reused mine and they did fine.

As for the actual gearing of -1, +2... still loven it. I see you live in NM so we're at similar altitudes more than likely. You will gain back some of that acceleration that is lost due to the thin air where you live. You loose some top end, you can use a gear calculator to figure out pretty closely where you'll end up. Gear Calculator

[mik1000rr]

Originally Posted by 1000RR

If you had a bike setup with an 18 and then went +2 in the rear, that would come close to negating the +2 in the rear. Not saying you did that, but if the other guy at the track did

thats a misunderstanding!i said ME +2 rear (shorter ratio gear)and the other setup guy +1 in front for longer ratio gears

[everyones.uh.critic]

Originally Posted by 1000RR

Front: Front Sprocket Install

Rear: For the rear, just remove the rear wheel, then remove the 5 nuts on the sprocket. Swap sprockets, tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 110Nm. Reinstall wheel. Manual says you should replace the nuts. I reused mine and they did fine.

As for the actual gearing of -1, +2... still loven it. I see you live in NM so we're at similar altitudes more than likely. You will gain back some of that acceleration that is lost due to the thin air where you live. You loose some top end, you can use a gear calculator to figure out pretty closely where you'll end up. Gear Calculator

You're awesome, thanks! I searched the forum and google but didn't see you're previous writeup on the other thread. Starting anything mechanical without detailed instructions just doesn't turn out well for me.

I'm actually in CO at a relatively high altitude. I'd say low end torque is a necessity when going 180+ isn't (especially for mountain riding).

Looking forward to this mod. I'll take you're word that this doesn't make highway speeds unbearable in 6th with high RPMs and the engine begging to be slowed down. That's my one concern with this already loud exhaust.

[RansomT]

Where is everyone getting there sprockets? If I do decide to LSR this bike I would want a 18 up front ... as a second choice just going -2 down in the back. However, +1 in front gives me more choices for a quick change while I am at the track. I then could carry +2, +1, OEM, -1 and never pull the front one off.

[1000RR]

Originally Posted by RansomT

Where is everyone getting there sprockets? If I do decide to LSR this bike I would want a 18 up front ... as a second choice just going -2 down in the back. However, +1 in front gives me more choices for a quick change while I am at the track. I then could carry +2, +1, OEM, -1 and never pull the front one off.

My front I got direct from AFAM. The rear is a Vortex.