Help With Attack Rearsets and CRG Levers

[Dshred]

I installed the levers and rearsets today and for some reason my quick shift won't work and my bike won't start in gear with the stand up and clutch in. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[chipset]

Did you adjust the rear bolts on your quickshifter?

That would explain the QS not working.

As for your levers, did you remove the parts from the stock unit and put them on the new ones?

[Dshred]

Originally Posted by chipset

Did you adjust the rear bolts on your quickshifter?

That would explain the QS not working.

As for your levers, did you remove the parts from the stock unit and put them on the new ones?

This is easy, no and no.

Are you supposed to adjust the bolts?

There were no instructions with the levers for anything like that.

[HyperM3]

Originally Posted by Dshred

This is easy, no and no.

Are you supposed to adjust the bolts?

There were no instructions with the levers for anything like that.

The levers are a quick swap and very easy. Only part you needed to re-use was the washer from the clutch lever. The brake lever should have come with an extra one in the package.

As for the attacks, I just installed those the other day as well. I kept everything at the "as delivered" locations and just bolted them up. However, there was a good suggestion by TJ and others was to install the shifter rod at the LOWEST setting of the top holes(not the bottom one for GP). Apparently at the topmost setting people were having some issues with shifter feel/engagement.

Now, if you have the rod installed at the lowest setting, then we need to come back to the drawing board.

[viperclaw]

If your clutch lever switch is not working it will/can cause both of these issues.

When you pull the lever in it should "click". It is not very loud so get your head up close to it and pull the lever back. Put the lever in the furthest out setting. This will let you see if it working at all. Move it to the setting you like and see if it is still clicking or not. If not you will have to look below and find the switch and possibly bend the tab so that it contacts the actuator on your lever.

The clutch switch may be the cause of the QS not working so get that sorted first. Make sure the quick shifter assembly is free and not binding. It should wobble quite a bit with your fingers twisting it on its axis. Probably 20-30 degrees of rotation. If it feels stiff the mounting point in the back is probably the problem. Make sure the arm of the rear set is not binding against the QS. If it is install a washer or spacer to free it up.

[Dshred]

Originally Posted by viperclaw

If your clutch lever switch is not working it will/can cause both of these issues.

When you pull the lever in it should "click". It is not very loud so get your head up close to it and pull the lever back. Put the lever in the furthest out setting. This will let you see if it working at all. Move it to the setting you like and see if it is still clicking or not. If not you will have to look below and find the switch and possibly bend the tab so that it contacts the actuator on your lever.

The clutch switch may be the cause of the QS not working so get that sorted first. Make sure the quick shifter assembly is free and not binding. It should wobble quite a bit with your fingers twisting it on its axis. Probably 20-30 degrees of rotation. If it feels stiff the mounting point in the back is probably the problem. Make sure the arm of the rear set is not binding against the QS. If it is install a washer or spacer to free it up.

You are correct, my switch was not clicking unless it was in the furthest position. The bike now starts in gear. I will see tomorrow if that is also the cause of the Quick Shifter failure.

And that's why this forum rocks, people with knowledge.

Thanks.


HyperM3, my rod is in the top position because it was stated in the instructions that this would be a more responsive shift. As far as the clutch lever, there was nothing to switch over. As mentioned above I am going to to try it tomorrow and see if the click was the issue for both. Thanks

[cesarb]

Originally Posted by Dshred

You are correct, my switch was not clicking unless it was in the furthest position. The bike now starts in gear. I will see tomorrow if that is also the cause of the Quick Shifter failure.

And that's why this forum rocks, people with knowledge.

Thanks.


HyperM3, my rod is in the top position because it was stated in the instructions that this would be a more responsive shift. As far as the clutch lever, there was nothing to switch over. As mentioned above I am going to to try it tomorrow and see if the click was the issue for both. Thanks

I just did my levers with CRG and there certainly is a bushing that has to be transferred to the CRG clutch lever from the stock lever. Looks at your stock lever and where it pivots, there is a bushing there shake it loose and apply some lithium grease and transfer to the same location on the CRG clutch lever. Make sure the clutch cable is inserted into the groove snugly and seated well.

[Dshred]

Originally Posted by cesarb

I just did my levers with CRG and there certainly is a bushing that has to be transferred to the CRG clutch lever from the stock lever. Looks at your stock lever and where it pivots, there is a bushing there shake it loose and apply some lithium grease and transfer to the same location on the CRG clutch lever. Make sure the clutch cable is inserted into the groove snugly and seated well.

Do you have a picture of this. Mine came with no instructions and I see no piece to exchange.

My brake lever had a bushing to add but that's it.

Nevermind, I posted, went to the garage and figured it out. You are correct and I owe you a beer sir. Thank you very much, all works perfect in any position.

It would have been nice for CRG to include some instructions with the clutch though.

Big thanks again.

[viperclaw]

The "more responsive" shift means that it takes less of a distance for your foot to shift the bike but it will be more difficult to actually move it through that distance. It's physics--the longer a lever-arm the less force is needed to do the same amount of work. But you have to move it through a greater distance. Then opposite will be the case in the "more responsive" position. Less distance but more force required.
You may need to move it to the "stock" position. I feel that the "stock" position takes more force to shift than the actual stock lever does. I have mine in the lowest position. It is a long throw but very easy to shift.
Try different locations and see what you prefer.
Don't change the length of the quick-shifter!! It can cause it to malfunction if you adjust the wrong components.

[cesarb]

Originally Posted by Dshred

Do you have a picture of this. Mine came with no instructions and I see no piece to exchange.

My brake lever had a bushing to add but that's it.

Nevermind, I posted, went to the garage and figured it out. You are correct and I owe you a beer sir. Thank you very much, all works perfect in any position.

It would have been nice for CRG to include some instructions with the clutch though.

Big thanks again.

Welcome, glad it all worked out. I actually got all I needed from You Tube! Levers feel great right? I love them. Got the shorty.