Shift Assistant Rod Adjustment - Ooops

[RyanITV]

I installed a new set of Attack rearsets and decided, trackside, before heading out, to adjust the toe peg a bit lower on the shifter. I did like I've always done on every bike before - loosened the bolts, rotated the rod and voila - the QS is now non-functional after 4th gear at full throttle.

In reading some posts from Nigel now, I should have just adjusted the front of the rod. Who knew...?

Is there any way of getting the thing adjusted back again - maybe by checking output voltage or do I need to just order a replacement shift sensor (~ $500)?

Ryan

[Nigel]

Originally Posted by RyanITV

I installed a new set of Attack rearsets and decided, trackside, before heading out, to adjust the toe peg a bit lower on the shifter. I did like I've always done on every bike before - loosened the bolts, rotated the rod and voila - the QS is now non-functional after 4th gear at full throttle.

In reading some posts from Nigel now, I should have just adjusted the front of the rod. Who knew...?

Is there any way of getting the thing adjusted back again - maybe by checking output voltage or do I need to just order a replacement shift sensor (~ $500)?

Ryan

Speak to the dealer first (I think it can be claibrated on the Moss, but I am not sure. Otherwise, try and go back to where you think it was and fiddle from there. Remember though, the lever position is also critical to how the thing functions. If it is not a firm kick or you hold the lever too long bla bla, it may also shift poorly so try and get the lever into the right postion too when you are testing the thing. But try go back, there must be a working 'range' surely.

N.

[RyanITV]

Originally Posted by Nigel

Speak to the dealer first (I think it can be claibrated on the Moss, but I am not sure. Otherwise, try and go back to where you think it was and fiddle from there. Remember though, the lever position is also critical to how the thing functions. If it is not a firm kick or you hold the lever too long bla bla, it may also shift poorly so try and get the lever into the right postion too when you are testing the thing. But try go back, there must be a working 'range' surely.

N.

I think the PO adjusted it before me - I've always had issues with the QS going from 5th -> 6th. When I went from Woodcraft rearsets to Attacks and adjusted the rod, it got worse.

I don't have a dealer - I think the closest is 3-4 hours away. It's probably more cost-effective to source a new sensor, then unless it's something I can adjust myself with a meter on the leads coming off the sensor.

Sucks, as I need one here by tomorrow to ride on Sunday. Bike is horrid to ride above 4th with the problems - you need to roll off or clutch it, and then the QS engages and the shift is clunky.

Ryan

[Reaper]

Hi Ryan

I've got attacks on my bike and I found that changing the linkage
mounting point (of the four aval.) to second lowest improved shifting greatly.
By doing this you increase the travel of the gearlever at your foot slightly
and slow the selector linkage down a bit + a greater mech advantage.
Play with it, it could help.
I can't see how adj. the length of the linkage would have any effect on the QS,
unless it so much that it affected the geometry.
I looked up the manual, the std length from the center of the eye to the other eye center is 305.5mm
and that the QS wire should be vertical.
There is no mention of calibration req.ed

Hope this helps you.

Rodney

[RyanITV]

I found the same mounting point seemed to work the best. In the top one, I could hardly find neutral.

I think the issue is that I loosened and adjusted the 12mm nut that holds the rod into the quickshifter when I first adjusted the rearsets. I fiddled with it most of yesterday afternoon, not knowing that was a pre-set tension from the factory. At one point, it wouldn't shift out of 3rd... I've got it in 4th now (most of the time), but 5th and 6th are still problematic.

It's hard to test, as it shifts fine at lower RPMs/loads... it's only at full-throttle, above 10krpm that it has issues with the upper gears. The HM unit I just ordered should be plug and play - plus I can adjust the timing as needed. It'll arrive tomorrow; we'll put it on when I stop at the shop to change the rear tire on the way to the track tomorrow afternoon.

Ryan

Originally Posted by Reaper

Hi Ryan

I've got attacks on my bike and I found that changing the linkage
mounting point (of the four aval.) to second lowest improved shifting greatly.
By doing this you increase the travel of the gearlever at your foot slightly
and slow the selector linkage down a bit + a greater mech advantage.
Play with it, it could help.
I can't see how adj. the length of the linkage would have any effect on the QS,
unless it so much that it affected the geometry.
I looked up the manual, the std length from the center of the eye to the other eye center is 305.5mm
and that the QS wire should be vertical.
There is no mention of calibration req.ed

Hope this helps you.

Rodney

[Nigel]

Originally Posted by RyanITV

I found the same mounting point seemed to work the best. In the top one, I could hardly find neutral.

I think the issue is that I loosened and adjusted the 12mm nut that holds the rod into the quickshifter when I first adjusted the rearsets. I fiddled with it most of yesterday afternoon, not knowing that was a pre-set tension from the factory. At one point, it wouldn't shift out of 3rd... I've got it in 4th now (most of the time), but 5th and 6th are still problematic.

It's hard to test, as it shifts fine at lower RPMs/loads... it's only at full-throttle, above 10krpm that it has issues with the upper gears. The HM unit I just ordered should be plug and play - plus I can adjust the timing as needed. It'll arrive tomorrow; we'll put it on when I stop at the shop to change the rear tire on the way to the track tomorrow afternoon.

Ryan

Ryan, are you sure your clutch switch is set properly? Cab you change modes while the bike is running and save the new mode? Please check before you spend any money.

N.

[Nismo400rgtr]

Hey Nigel, where should the clutch switch be set? Would it affect normal gear changes without QS use? I thought it would only be used for starting the bike.

[Nigel]

No it's only for the electronics, as and mode selector etc.

N.

[Reaper]

"I think the issue is that I loosened and adjusted the 12mm nut that holds the rod into the quickshifter when I first adjusted the rearsets. I fiddled with it most of yesterday afternoon, not knowing that was a pre-set tension from the factory. At one point, it wouldn't shift out of 3rd... I've got it in 4th now (most of the time), but 5th and 6th are still problematic."

Aaahh, OK I understand now, so the amount preload applied by the spring in the QS body to the selector arm before it signals for a engine cut.
So I assume the oem is basically a switch and the HM one is load cell based
with an adjustable amp.
Sounds a much better way of doing it, hope it solves you problem.

[Thruxton1]

Originally Posted by Reaper

"I think the issue is that I loosened and adjusted the 12mm nut that holds the rod into the quickshifter when I first adjusted the rearsets. I fiddled with it most of yesterday afternoon, not knowing that was a pre-set tension from the factory. At one point, it wouldn't shift out of 3rd... I've got it in 4th now (most of the time), but 5th and 6th are still problematic."

Aaahh, OK I understand now, so the amount preload applied by the spring in the QS body to the selector arm before it signals for a engine cut.
So I assume the oem is basically a switch and the HM one is load cell based
with an adjustable amp.
Sounds a much better way of doing it, hope it solves you problem.

The QS Rod at the front end of the QS goes into a blind tapped hole, so adjusting the total rod length as was done should not affect any calibration. Same is true if you make a minor length adjustment at the back end by spinning the rod end. Only question is if the QS rod itself is rotated within the unit, does this cause a calibration issue. Maybe a BMW tech can answer this for us. Other comments relative to the clutch switch are also confusing. This switch is so that the bike will not start in gear clutch out. When the clutch is pulled in the bike will start in gear. Any further insight on the QS would be appreciated.-T1