Factory Chain Replacement Options

[jkleinha]

Hey Gents,

I'd like to replace my factory chain with one that is painted to prevent rust. What chain options do I have? Obviously I want to put a better chain on it than came from factory that is black in color.

Guess I don't know what size/strength/options I need out of a chain and just need to figure out what to take with me to the shop and have them put on

Thanks,

Jon

[Steve Evil]

Why not just buy a Tsubaki Sigma gold chain, they're pretty corrosion proof. I don't know why you'd want to have a bespoke one made.

[jkleinha]

That looks like a nice chain you recommended. I guess I could get over the gold color if that was the best chain you could buy.

Now I guess my next question is, how do I size it for a stock replacement? How many links (hope I don't need to count them), etc?

[1000RR]

Originally Posted by jkleinha

That looks like a nice chain you recommended. I guess I could get over the gold color if that was the best chain you could buy.

Now I guess my next question is, how do I size it for a stock replacement? How many links (hope I don't need to count them), etc?

The stock chain is a 525. Many liter bikes come with a 530... and many folks convert their bike to a 520. Each size basically has to do with the width of the chain... the lower the number, the skinnier the chain (not by much, but a little). So the lower the number, the less it weighs, the less it weighs, the less unsprung mass, the less unsprung mass, the better the acceleration. Now the question is will you notice a difference (in acceleration) between a 525 and a 520... and do you want to change your sprockets too (from a 525 to a 520). As a general rule, the bigger the number, the more strength the chain has too... but some of the 520's out there are pretty darn good! You will also hear about Pitch... that is the distance between rollers... it's the same for a 520, 525, and 530... Basically if you put the first number in the three digit string over 8... that is the distance between rollers. So a 530 chain is 5/8" between rollers. A 630 chain is 3/4" (6/8ths) between rollers.

Here's some further info on the pitch and widths of chains:

520 5/8 inch pitch, 1/4 inch wide
525 5/8 inch pitch, 5/16 inch wide
530 5/8 inch pitch, 3/8 inch wide

As for sizing the chain... you can simply start at some location on the chain and either count the rivets (number of links) or count the number of side/outer plates. If you do the latter, just multiply that by 2 and you come up w/the number of links you need (the number of links you need should always be an even number). Remember to buy a new master link and a chain tool to put it together... having an extra master isn't a bad idea either.

[jkleinha]

Wow, that was very informative!

Onto the sproket conversation. Are they expensive and/or hard to change out on the S1k? No sense in paying for hours and hours of labor to change out a chain and convert sprokets. Also, can I do this myself? I like DIY projects that aren't too insane and have a few tools but minimal mechanical aptitude.

That 520 route sounds ideal, providing it has the right price point. I don't want to go modding the bike electonically or with exhaust, but little things like this I wouldn't mind providing I have a chain with adequate strength.

Jon

[1000RR]

The sprockets will cost you somewhere around $100-$130 for a front and rear (total). The chain is gonna cost you a bit more... Chain tool is about $80-ish. I just picked up the DID chain tool and an DID ERV3 chain from Rider's Discount... Tool makes putting on a new chain darn near fool proof (almost). And the ERV3 is a GREAT chain.

As for changing the sprockets... if you can remove/reinstall the rear wheel, you can do a sprocket change. It's not that bad at all. I had always been apprehensive about doing my own chain, but after getting the DID Chain Tool it was simple and easy... no worries at all.

[Sal_R1]

Curiously enough its the rollers on a chain that seem to attract rust before other parts in an improperly serviced or kept chain!

Originally Posted by jkleinha

Hey Gents,

I'd like to replace my factory chain with one that is painted to prevent rust. What chain options do I have? Obviously I want to put a better chain on it than came from factory that is black in color.

Guess I don't know what size/strength/options I need out of a chain and just need to figure out what to take with me to the shop and have them put on

Thanks,

Jon

[DrIoannis]

You loose 1kgr if you switch to 520 with ERV3 DID and Renthal.
The 525 kit for the almost original S1000RR weights 3360gr
Front sprocket 16 201gr
Rear 525 sprocket 774gr
525 chain 2385gr
The 520 kit that TJ sent me is 2348gr (17-46)
Front 17 191gr
Rear 46 308gr(more than half weigh the original)
DID 520 ERV3 chain 1849g

[A.B.]

check out Sprocket Center - for some good prices, I've used them in the past.

[jkleinha]

Hey Gents,

Thanks for the replies. I talked with my BMW dealer about the conversion recently and although he understands this is a typical race modification, I mainly use my bike for some spirited riding (and no racing). He was concerned that I would have to spend more time maintaining my bike, as I put on around 10k miles a year.

So the stock chain is a 525, if I go to a 520, I have about 30% less chain...does that mean my chain maintenance interval would increase by 30%? (that's the conclusion he drew for me) Honestly, I don't think it is such a bad deal to have to replace chain/sprockets every 2-3 years. If that is really the case (a 2-3 year interval) then I'd be all about moving to a 520.

The weight I'm going to save from this upgrade, will it make a notable difference? Given the chain is skinnier, is there an increased likelyhood of it breaking?

I'm typically really good about lubing up my chain but was an idiot and rode the bike on some salty roads (this is the Western New York February itch!) and it ended up rusting up.