I May Have Hit the Stoopit Button - AP Rearsets Install

**blazer** · 05-02-2011, 05:31 PM

My AP rearsets just landed and I was going through the instructions before I started wrenching. Everything looks straightforward until I get to the part about AP not having a provision for the rear brake light switch. Supposedly I am to disconnect it and tie it off to the bike, or buy an new pressure switch banjo bolt.

OK.

But now comes the stoopit part.

Where is this switch? I was looking all over the stock setup, and haven't found it. I also haven't found said banjo bolt.

Either the instructions are wrong, or I can't see what is obviously right in front of my face. Obviously I need to figure this out, as I am not going to be riding around without a properly functioning brake light.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks!

B-

npinto · 05-02-2011, 06:19 PM

If you abs don't worry about it. There is a pressure switch that is not at any of the masters cyclinders(front of back)

Noel

War-Eagle · 05-02-2011, 07:37 PM

+1 on the abs. Brake light works as oem without modification. Non-abs bike I have no idea.

**blazer** · 05-02-2011, 07:45 PM

OK, thanks guys. Interestingly, the instructions make no reference to ABS at all.

Am I correct to assume that you all are attaching the return spring of the brake lever to one of the 2 machined slots on the lever arm?

Thanks again!

B-

War-Eagle · 05-02-2011, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazer

OK, thanks guys. Interestingly, the instructions make no reference to ABS at all.

Am I correct to assume that you all are attaching the return spring of the brake lever to one of the 2 machined slots on the lever arm?

Thanks again!

B-

I left the spring off as have many other users. I have tracked the bike both on a road course and drag strip and have never had a problem. The lever will return to rest on the stop block on the ap rearsets. I've been using mine for over 6 months with no issues.

**blazer** · 05-02-2011, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by War-Eagle

I left the spring off as have many other users. I have tracked the bike both on a road course and drag strip and have never had a problem. The lever will return to rest on the stop block on the ap rearsets. I've been using mine for over 6 months with no issues.

Thanks!

What is causing the pedal to return and hold in place then? Is it the cylinder pressure?

B-

War-Eagle · 05-02-2011, 08:20 PM

Yes, just pressure on the back of the lever from the brake system pressure.

**blazer** · 05-02-2011, 09:36 PM

I appreciate the replies.

Thanks!

B-

**blazer** · 05-03-2011, 09:27 PM

Thanks for all the replies. I got everything installed tonight and am excited to go riding with them tomorrow. I can't believe the knurling on those pegs - its almost as aggressive as my GSA!

One thing, I do have some slop in the brake pedal. While it does return to its "resting" position, it doesn't have enough to hold it there. There is about 1/4" of play from the stop until it engages the master cylinder. It sort of just floats along freely in that space. I did drop the stop down as far as it goes, but that didn't seem to correct anything. After riding tomorrow, I'll see if it is banging around or otherwise bothering me and see what I can come up with for a fix.

Other than that, I have to say that these are some really well thought out and manufactured with great quality. I would not hesitate to recommend them to others.

B-

**viperclaw** · 05-04-2011, 10:38 AM

Put the return spring on. It will keep it from being possibly weighted down which could cause it to use the rear brake--possibly but probably not.

You can change the length of the plunger rod--the thing that pushes the piston of the master cylinder up when you apply the brake. There is a little lock nut near the bottom where pin holds it to the brake lever arm. Loosen the nut and you should be able to turn the rod which will take up slack or add slack depending on which way you are going. Leave some slack--a couple of mm in travel up/down for the rod (not pedal travel)--to compensate for heat build up. If the brake is used or when the disc simply passes the pads it seems to decrease that freeplay and if you don't leave any the rear brake may drag or even lock up. A few mm is enough. Lock the nut and your slop should be pretty much gone.