HeliBars -- just buy em!

[crgrbrts]

I'm 65 years old, but not ready to give up sportbikes -- or track days --quite yet. Naturally, being a Beemer fan, I was among the first in line for an S1000RR. I have loved the machine intensely for the past year and a half but have always found the riding position a bit tedious on extended journeys. I long toyed with the idea of installing risers or aftermarket bars to ease the minor but annoying strain, but balked at actually doing so for fear that I would "ruin" the aesthetics of the bike or would convert this thoroughbred into a hack or -- and this is probably closer to the truth than anything -- I would be viewed as a silly, arthritic old codger posing as racer boy but being betrayed by a set of "sit up and beg" bars.

I needn't have feared. I installed my long awaited HeliBars today -- a terrific Christmas gift from my lovely bride -- and I couldn't be happier. The visual difference in the riding position is nearly imperceptible. I doubt seriously that a fellow S1KRR owner would even detect the slightly altered posture. However, the improvement in comfort is VERY noticeable and very welcome -- well worth the investment in time and money (especially since my wife paid for them).

Do not fear the installation. I am hardly an expert wrench, but HeliBars fitting is a straightforward hour-long process and not at all difficult. Fitment is perfect with no modifications whatsoever to bike or bars needed. Just follow the instructions step-step and make sure you have all the requisite tools at hand. They are listed on the installation sheets which are handily downloadable from the HeliBars website.

I would recommend two tools specifically to help with the removal and replacement of the tightly torqued steering stem nut atop the triple tree. One is a common 1/2" drive breaker bar. A 15-inch one will do nicely. To this you will attach a 1/2" drive 36 mm socket. While any such auto parts store socket will do, I HIGHLY endorse a special one available from a great guy in Wisconsin named Jeff Trapp. Jeff offers "a 36 mm 1/2" drive socket that has been faced to allow better purchase on thin nuts." His socket, which is very reasonably priced, has had the outer lip ground down and polished to eliminate the socket's inside chamfer. This keeps the socket from rocking on the nut and thus minimizes the chance of damage and makes removal of the steering stem nut FAR easier. You can purchase this item directly from Jeff through his website: Northwoods Airheads specializes services BMW airhead motorcycles. (click on "Tools"). It's also a great place to visit if you're restoring an old /2 or /5 Beemer.

Anyway, if you've been hesitating about installing a set of HeliBars because you think you'll be branded a sissy, or you'll have to pay some tech $200 to bolt them on, worry no more. Just buy 'em!

[Vidaeis]

thanks for the advice. I've never used heli bars on a bike but a more comfortable ride definitely isn't a bad thing.

[clworkma]

Have any Pics?

[shavkatsi12]

+1 for pictures

[skapan]

+1 on Helibars. It's difficult to see the difference, even on the Heli website pictures. I took one shot of a stock bar (front)and the Heli replacement (rear) sitting on the shelf of my workbench. It clearly shows the difference in angle, and the fact that the actual bar position at the fork is unchanged. As the OP said, people will probably never notice that the bars are changed, unlike the LSL kit. Helis make a world of difference.

[crgrbrts]

Here some photos, as requested. A three-hour test ride today confirmed my feeling that the HeliBars are a terrific boon to those of us who find the stock riding position a bit wearying on longer trips. The bars are beautifully crafted, too -- at least the equal of the OEM pair. They bear a "Made in Maine" hang tag as packaged; a mark of well-earned pride.

[AMPforE]

Do you feel any less vibration?


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app

[markjenn]

Originally Posted by crgrbrts

I would recommend two tools specifically to help with the removal and replacement of the tightly torqued steering stem nut atop the triple tree. One is a common 1/2" drive breaker bar. A 15-inch one will do nicely. To this you will attach a 1/2" drive 36 mm socket. While any such auto parts store socket will do, I HIGHLY endorse a special one available from a great guy in Wisconsin named Jeff Trapp. Jeff offers "a 36 mm 1/2" drive socket that has been faced to allow better purchase on thin nuts." His socket, which is very reasonably priced, has had the outer lip ground down and polished to eliminate the socket's inside chamfer. This keeps the socket from rocking on the nut and thus minimizes the chance of damage and makes removal of the steering stem nut FAR easier. You can purchase this item directly from Jeff through his website: Northwoods Airheads specializes services BMW airhead motorcycles. (click on "Tools"). It's also a great place to visit if you're restoring an old /2 or /5 Beemer.

I'm a sucker for buying tools and certainly this one sounds like it would be that cat's pajamas, but I had no issue removing and re-torquing this nut with a common socket, long rachet, and torque wrench. At 88 ft-lb, it is tight, but not ungodly tight. As I recall, I did face the nut with a little tape just to make sure I didn't mar the nut at all. It came off and went back on with no sweat whatsoever.

- Mark

[crgrbrts]

Good tip (taping the nut). My steering head nut would not budge at all using a long rachet, though mine was a collapsible type and flexed quite a bit. The breaker bar did the trick, however. I, too, torqued it down correctly upon reassembly. I found out the hard way about improper tightening many years ago when using the old Brit bike repair adage "torque it down until it strips, then back off 1/4 turn".

As for vibration, or lessening of same, I really can't say. I was so enamored of the new riding position that I wasn't paying attention to the "tinglies." I ride Triumph and Norton parallel twins regularly, so my S1KRR seems silky smooth by comparison, anyway.

[martins]

I just tried out my newly installed helibars. They look gr8 and I´m sure they would make everyday riding more comfortable. But I think the bar angle is just too straight for me. It feels heavier to steer . Either its just in my head or the changed leverage & ridingposition causes it somehow...

With the positioning pin locked in the upper clamp it didn´t work at all for me. Felt awkward... I moved them down the fork tubes, turning them a few degrees forwards which helped, but still feels strange...

Are there any other clip ons fitting as nice but with an angle somewhere between stock & helibars? Seems like most others either have fairing clearance problems since they´re raised outside/in front of the top triple clamp. Or the bars gets mounted under the top clamp giving a much lower initial bar position.