Starter clutch problem, spun bearing, or worse? - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
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Old 12-26-2011, 06:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Starter clutch problem, spun bearing, or worse?

I appreciate any feedback, but am also trying to document for future reference.

In October I high-sided this BMW at Infineon Raceway; the rain stopped in the mid-afternoon and I went out in the wet. I was running in "rain mode", but the Dunlop GP211A's just didn't have any sticky - it went down hard on its left side with most of the impact force going in through a Woodcraft frame slider and Woodcraft clutch cover. The tip-over sensor didn't turn off the bike; it was idling in 2nd gear for about 45 seconds before I got to it and turned it off.

It hasn't started since then. I suspect one of the bearings spun and the crankshaft is seized, but I'm hoping it's something easier.

It sounds like this when I try to start it: (youtube link). When pressing the starter button, I can hear a single "knock" from the engine, but it doesn't go further.
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Old 12-26-2011, 06:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I drained the oil pan as a first-step towards disassembly.

This is Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 5w-40. It was just changed, so this oil only had about 30 miles on it. I'm also using a K&N [model] filter. I only swap the filter once per two oil changes, so the filter had something like 300 miles on it.

The magnetic drain plug was scary to see - lots of metal bits here.


But, even scarier, there were flakes of (non-magnetic) aluminum in the bottom of the oil pan when I was done.


What does it mean? I guess I'll have to wonder, for now...

Last edited by edchung; 12-26-2011 at 06:47 PM. Reason: Embedded Images
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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have you tried turning the motor over by hand, with out using the starter motor? also check the alluminium flakes to make sure they are alluminium, could be some of your crank bearing material, either way if you cant turn the motor by hand it need to be stripped down

good luck
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antonn View Post
have you tried turning the motor over by hand, with out using the starter motor?
When I put it into 2nd gear, I can put a 32mm socket on the front sprocket nut and turn the engine with some effort. It feels "unsmooth", but that could just be me being wimpy.

I don't know how to test that the flakes are aluminum. I just know they're thin, metallic, and non-magnetic.

My current goal is to get the left-case-cover off and look inside before cracking open the bottom-end.

-E
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Old 12-26-2011, 10:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Take the spark plugs out. Put it in 6th. Then turn it over at the sprocket. Does it go all the way through a revolution--the motor not the sprocket.
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Old 12-27-2011, 07:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I know it unrelated to what you asked but why "Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 5w-40"
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You'll have to take the spark plugs out and make sure the cylinders are free of liquids. Tip overs tend to do that.
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarpSpeed View Post
I know it unrelated to what you asked but why "Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 5w-40"
Thinking about this more, I actually switch between "Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40" and "Shell Rotella T6 5W-40". But it was Mobil1 at time of failure.

My interpretation is that the "Turbo Diesel Truck" part of the name is a description of the most common application that Mobil1 thinks you'll use it for. That is, the "Turbo Diesel Truck" is just marketing - it's not an indication of a specific formula in this case. As far as I'm aware, Mobil1 does not make a "Mobil 1 [Regular] 5W-40".

However... I'm the one who blows BMW engines like they're made of plastic, so I wouldn't tell my friends to bet money on my oil analysis. Maybe there really is something different about this oil or something special about the expensive Motorcycle-specific oil the dealer sells (but I haven't given up on using $25/gal synthetic 5W-40 out of Walmart just yet...).

-E
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Although this isn't an oil thread... motorcycle oil generally does have additives that make for a better wet clutch application. Diesel oils also have additives specific to their application too especially due to the diesels using the same motor oil to lubricate the high pressure injectors. I tried to use something different one time in my 97 Ford Diesel, and it (the truck) did not like it one bit. Changed back to a diesel specific oil and ran like a champ again.
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I would like to polish my clutch plates with moly powder and fill up with moly additives. For science. Clutch plates are cheap and it would make a good story. Unfortunately, a track is not within a gas tank of my house to go and burn stuff up.
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