Is this the "new" crankshaft?

edchung · 12-24-2011, 09:16 PM

I remember seeing a thread last year or earlier this year regarding the changes in the crankshaft - and that no one was really sure what changed.

Well, back in March I spun a bearing. I got a new-used crankshaft from a crashed S1000RR of unknown VIN/date. I finally got the engine apart, and was looking at pictures to figure out which-color rod bearings I need, when I noticed this very significant difference between the two crankshafts.

First, is this the "new" crankshaft part? If so, it looks like they replaced one balancing weight with a symmetric disk. The bearing colors on the old crankshaft are mostly red and green - the new one uses blue or purple bearings. The new crankshaft "wiggles" if I place it into the bottom-half, which indicates that the crankshaft must be a little bit thinner in these spots.

Second, is there a way I can determine if the old crankshaft is repairable? 18 new rod bearings is something like $400; repairing the old crankshaft might actually be cheaper if it means not replacing all the bearings.

-E

(There are some better pictures on my Facebook if you want a better look.)

DrIoannis · 12-25-2011, 02:12 AM

The simplest way is to hold them both in your hand and the heaviest is the newest.

H-2 CHARLIE · 12-25-2011, 03:19 AM

wow that great to know ,im sure at # 847 im a early one . So thay wont inter-change ? HOW MANY MILES AND HOW MANY OIL CHANGES WITH WHAT ?

redninja · 12-25-2011, 08:49 AM

heavier crank later, but should be interchangeable plastiguage? I have not had good results with repairing cranks, but maybe it was just my machine shop. (spun the same bearing again a little while after) good luck

**viperclaw** · 12-25-2011, 10:06 AM

That new crank won't fit in the old cases without a bit of modification to the engine cases. Not sure if it is the top or bottom case but the new crank web will prevent putting the halves together. You will need to grind a bit of one of the case dividers is what had to be modified (if I remember correctly).

If you don't put the correct bearing shells in the bike you might as well not put the engine back together. If they are too tight you will burn the crank. If they are too loose you will bleed a lot of oil pressure off, possibly spin another bearing, or damage top end from low oil pressure. In other words suck it up and pay for the correct ones.

Pretty sure repairing the crank would be more expensive than the $400 dollars in new bearings. If it is at all possible. They would have to weld metal onto the crank and then machine it off perfectly. Not sure who you can trust to do it correctly or if it is even cost effective. I'm sure you can find someone to attempt it but do or can they do it correctly.

**HOG SLYR** · 12-26-2011, 02:38 PM

Call APE (661) 256-7309 if they can't fix it they can probably point you to someone that can.

jhanshaw · 12-26-2011, 07:58 PM

Thanks for posting pics of the new crank, I have been wondering what it looks like. The best crank repair people in the business are the guys at Falicon (727) 797-2468. They can repair your spun bearing, no problem. It will be much cheaper then buying a new crank but it's standard practice to install new rod and main bearings when rebuilding a engine.
Good luck.

edchung · 12-26-2011, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by viperclaw

That new crank won't fit in the old cases without a bit of modification to the engine cases.

The new crankshaft butts against this spot on the bottom half of the case. I'm going to grind it down using a Dremel and hope that I don't regret it!

Regarding weight - I don't know the difference between the two. I put them on a box-scale and they both register 19.0 lbs - presumably because the scale isn't accurate enough to identify the difference.

I was hoping that I could reuse most of the bearings if I reuse the crankshaft, but if I need to replace them all then I definitely won't bother repairing the older crank. Now to find a dealer who won't charge me full price on parts... I'll post who I wind up buying from.

edchung · 12-26-2011, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by H-2 CHARLIE

wow that great to know ,im sure at # 847 im a early one . So thay wont inter-change ? HOW MANY MILES AND HOW MANY OIL CHANGES WITH WHAT ?

The red/green/yellow crankshaft has about 3000 miles on it - probably somewhere between 10-15 oil changes, always 5W40 synthetic.

**HOG SLYR** · 12-26-2011, 09:48 PM

Just thinking out loud here but is the extra disk on the new crank just a flywheel to add a little rotating mass to change some of the low end power characteristics of the engine? If so and depending on your needs couldn't it be cut down to lighten the crank and add a little acceleration to the engine on the top end at the same time give you the needed case clearance?