Flipped the eccentric washer

[chopt]

I tallied over 11k miles without making this adjustment. The ride height was the main reason why I selecetd this bike over the others. So, initially I didn't want'a raise it none. At my weight setting my SAG #'s and dialing in the front and rear compression and rebound damper's. I settled in on how it handled and got used to the input's it required to get it to rail the twisties. Being this bike serves street duty only, the only suspension mod I was considering is straight rate springs.

Fast forward to yesterday, I flipped the wahser's and with D's advice I dropped the tubes giving me 8mm's above the upper triple clamp. When I left the driveway I noticed the difference instantly. It felt more agile, the slightest input to the bars resulted in an effortless turn in. I then got to put 120+miles on it thru some of the twistier roads around my area. It was a noticeable positive difference. Although it raised the RH slighly, the benefits out way that minor personal set-back. Only making this adjustment, single rate springs maybe the only mod I'll make. Unless I run across a deal on fork valves that I just can't pass up.

[bmwian]

I was told to flip the rear suspension washer, and have the top of the front suspension level with the top of the triple tree, by a suspension guru in California!

Who is your advice coming from?

I am trying to get the best balance out of the stock suspension!

[1000RR]

Originally Posted by bmwian

I was told to flip the rear suspension washer, and have the top of the front suspension level with the top of the triple tree, by a suspension guru in California!

Who is your advice coming from?

I am trying to get the best balance out of the stock suspension!

I put that info in another thread for Chopt... The info was provided to me through some AMA racing guys running superstock or the like. I was originally running the front close to flush and then took the advice and dropped the front... I only needed to drop 4mm in the front, but it was immediately noticeable. Prior to that I was running with the rear insert flipped and the forks almost flush.

[AMPforE]

What are your suspension settings? And how much did you seat height increase, I don't have an issue but would like to know. I may flip the washer to see if I get the same effect.

My settings are:

Sag:
Front 39
Rear 30

Front
Rebound 10
Compression 5

Rear
Rebound 8
Compression Low 6
Compression High 5

[S1RR]

Originally Posted by AMPforE

What are your suspension settings? And how much did you seat height increase, I don't have an issue but would like to know. I may flip the washer to see if I get the same effect.

My settings are:

Sag:
Front 39
Rear 30

Front
Rebound 10
Compression 5

Rear
Rebound 8
Compression Low 6
Compression High 5

But the important question is, How heavy are you?

A 150lb rider will need completely different settings to 250lb rider.

[AMRRA12]

Originally Posted by S1RR

But the important question is, How heavy are you?

A 150lb rider will need completely different settings to 250lb rider.

Settings (other then sag) for the most part have very little to do with weight and more to do with how you ride I.e.riding Style ,skill, surface and so on it's a very bad idea to post or even run someone elses setting unless you ride exactly like them and have the same skill level. there are no magic numbers

[DrIoannis]

I did flip the rear eccentric some months ago with stock front.On my weight (98kgr with gear) the front just collapsed on breaks and at the same time I was loosing my rear.I returned to stock and just lowered my front 1 line.The bike became a bit more agile without the previews problems.Now with the Ohlins TTX (2-3mm higher) and the 1 line lower front (revalved,springs for my weigh) the bike fells really nice and agile.

[chopt]

I did flip the rear eccentric some months ago with stock front.On my weight (98kgr with gear) the front just collapsed on breaks and at the same time I was loosing my rear.I returned to stock and just lowered my front 1 line.The bike became a bit more agile without the previews problems.Now with the Ohlins TTX (2-3mm higher) and the 1 line lower front (revalved,springs for my weigh) the bike fells really nice and agile

Raising the rear(flipping the washer) requires you to raise the front also. Not raising the front when you flipped the washer reduced the rake causing a quicker turn-in. The tucked feeling you felt causing the rear to get squirrely. For ****'s and giggles flip the washer again and raise the forks 8mm. That is 8mm from the top of the tube cap to the upper clamp.

What are your suspension settings? And how much did you seat height increase, I don't have an issue but would like to know. I may flip the washer to see if I get the same effect.

My seat height did increase. But the performance gain made that null and void. To be exact, I'd say it lifted it half an inch to an inch.

[djhartm]

Originally Posted by chopt

Raising the rear(flipping the washer) requires you to raise the front also. Not raising the front when you flipped the washer reduced the rake causing a quicker turn-in. The tucked feeling you felt causing the rear to get squirrely. For ****'s and giggles flip the washer again and raise the forks 8mm. That is 8mm from the top of the tube cap to the upper clamp.



My seat height did increase. But the performance gain made that null and void. To be exact, I'd say it lifted it half an inch to an inch.

Why exactly would you want to raise both the front & rear of the bike?



Assuming they are raised equally, all you are doing then is raising the CoG.

[awelch85]

Any chance someone can do a pictorial walk through of flipping the washer?