Head Stem Bolt

wattsy_rules · 12-12-2011, 03:27 AM

OK, so I received an Ohlins TTX36 shock, Ohlins FGRT Forks, Steering Damper and Kyle Triple Clamp (28mm) last week. I had them installed by one of the local M/Cycle shops as I wanted the job done properly. Got the bike back from them Saturday just gone and decided to go for a ride yesterday.

I must be honest, after about 30 minutes I was starting to think that I had done the wrong thing by instaling Ohlins...The bike was handling like a pile of crap, enough that it was worrying. I backed off and tried to analyse the feeling. The main issue was the really loose feeling in the handle bars followed by the bars occassionally 'pulsing'.

I eventually decided the main issue was the bars mostly pulsing under braking. I worked the issue down to the Head Stem bolt not being properly tensioned. I rode slowly back home, being careful not to stress the head stem.

I took the bike back to the shop today and told them of my concerns. They were pretty shocked at first but then took the triple top off and sure enough the lock nut somehow had come loose.

They tightened it all up and I got outa there for another ride. Only 45 minutes this time but the bike felt dramatically better. I still haven't ridden it enough to say that the new suspention is dramatically better that the Sachs, but I am hopeful given he short ride I have had.

A question for you all, has anyone else had any issues with the Head Stem nuts coming loose on their 2011 S1RR? If so, have you been able to fix it?

antonn · 12-12-2011, 07:07 AM

i have worked on motorcycles for over 30 years and i have never had a stem nut work loose, i assume they pressed your old stem out of your standard triple clamps and re-fitted the bearings on the new one? they may not have fully seated the lower race and when the bike was ridden the bearing seated itself causing the nut to appear to have come loose.

**1000RR** · 12-12-2011, 09:21 AM

I have heard of this on bikes fresh from the line... and is why BMW does a check/tighten/torque at the 600 mile service of the head stem. Haven't heard of it happening after that though. If you're interested in doing it yourself, it's pretty simple, just need the socket to do it --> Adjusting/Torquing the Steering Head

wattsy_rules · 12-13-2011, 03:44 AM

OK just spoke with the head of Motorad Service for Aus and he tells me that the S1RR nuts have to be torqued to the correct specs or they will come loose.

S1000RR you ARE correct as usual.

antonn · 12-14-2011, 12:05 AM

all bolts need to be torqued to correct specs or they come loose! (or break/strip). the reason the stem bolt is checked at the first service is because the bearings will seat slightly when installed, exactly what happened with yours when you swapped the clamps over, the correct method to fit the stem to the clamps invoves heating the bearing race in hot oil and freezing the steel stem then push on the bearing race until it seats, the bearing should then be gently pressed after they reach room temp to ensure the race is seated and square, same for fitting the stem to the clamps, freeze the stem and heat the clamps (in oven)

wattsy_rules · 12-14-2011, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by antonn

all bolts need to be torqued to correct specs or they come loose! (or break/strip). the reason the stem bolt is checked at the first service is because the bearings will seat slightly when installed, exactly what happened with yours when you swapped the clamps over, the correct method to fit the stem to the clamps invoves heating the bearing race in hot oil and freezing the steel stem then push on the bearing race until it seats, the bearing should then be gently pressed after they reach room temp to ensure the race is seated and square, same for fitting the stem to the clamps, freeze the stem and heat the clamps (in oven)

Damn!! It used to be pretty simple. Thanks for the feedback.