HP ECU help

[senator8]

I have just bought a 2010 race bike with HP ECU.
The traction control is not working and the light is staying constant.
Just wondering if anyone has come across this or if I am missing something obvious.
The previous owner had it to several dealerships to try and fix but met with dead ends. Most dealers here in Aus know little to nothing about race bikes or the HP ECU.

On another note what clutch or plates are any other racers using?

Cheers

Rick

[antonn]

to alter settings you need the hp calibration kit did you get this when you purchased the bike? this is a separate purchase to the hp ecu, but fitting the ecu shouldnt cause any problems with the traction control.
this may sound obvious but check the following:
make sure wheel sensor rings are fitted and not damaged, make sure the front wheel is fitted the righ way (sensor ring should be on the left side) has the abs block been disconnected? this is under the seat near the battery, lastly and most obvious is the traction control swithched of using the switch on the left handlebar?

we use standard clutch plates with an stm slipper clutch, the stm allows for smoother race starts, never had any problem with the standard clutch plates

[Jimmyc.]

Also might check for a short circuit in the hand control for traction control

[evildrag]

as i understand since the ligth is solid state on, maybe the dtc is deativated unless at the begining of the cycle flash with the abs ligth?
more info needed to diagnose the fail.
did you try to long press the dtc button

[George Villar]

The ECU has a base map in it from whomever the ECU was purchased from. The DTC function is can be ON, OFF or modified - but to get to the bottom of this, you need to find out who did the base MAP.

The sensors may be malfunctioning too.

[antonn]

Originally Posted by George Villar

The ECU has a base map in it from whomever the ECU was purchased from. The DTC function is can be ON, OFF or modified - but to get to the bottom of this, you need to find out who did the base MAP.

The sensors may be malfunctioning too.

you cant actually turn the dtc off using the calibration sotware, but you can change when it starts to cut in, but that isnt the problem, if the light is staying on then the dtc is de-activated either by the on/off switch on the handlebar or other things may have been unplugged, start with the simple things first, wheel sensors fitted? or fitted correctly, trace wire loom from front sensor to make sure it is plugged in (it plugs in through the frame hole on the l/h side), the rear one is under the seat, try all the small things first if that leads nowhere send me a mesage and i will give you my number (i live in perth) and we will get it sorted

[MasterTommy NL]

Try holding the ABS/DTC button till both turn off. If the TC light stays on, get a dealer to read the fault memory.

Warning light = fault code.

[senator8]

Thanks very much guys for your replies.

I will check the things you guys have mentioned.

Yes I have the calibration kit. Yes the abs is bypassed and the module still connected.

Pressing and holding the abs/tc button does nothing. I might try the switch block off my road bike just to make sure it's not the problem, but the previuos owner said they had checked that.

Antonn, re the clutch. Exactly what I wanted to know. Do you find the stm hard on plates?

Again, thank you guys

[antonn]

Originally Posted by senator8

Thanks very much guys for your replies.

I will check the things you guys have mentioned.

Yes I have the calibration kit. Yes the abs is bypassed and the module still connected.

Pressing and holding the abs/tc button does nothing. I might try the switch block off my road bike just to make sure it's not the problem, but the previuos owner said they had checked that.

Antonn, re the clutch. Exactly what I wanted to know. Do you find the stm hard on plates?

Again, thank you guys

the stm is easier o the plates than the std clutch, there is no bunny-hopping on the starts so no need to slip it as much. (if you are looking at buying one try motodex germany very good pricing and fast shipping)

one more thing with your dtc, it may be worth investing in a gs911 that way you can read and reset fault codes, an example of this is if you put in a rear wheel without a sensor ring then the quickshift will stop working and wont work until you have cleared the fault.

[senator8]

Originally Posted by antonn

the stm is easier o the plates than the std clutch, there is no bunny-hopping on the starts so no need to slip it as much. (if you are looking at buying one try motodex germany very good pricing and fast shipping)

one more thing with your dtc, it may be worth investing in a gs911 that way you can read and reset fault codes, an example of this is if you put in a rear wheel without a sensor ring then the quickshift will stop working and wont work until you have cleared the fault.

Thanks a lot Antonn. I think motodex does suter slippers.
A low use stm out of Allerton's bike was for sale not long ago. Might check out if it's still around. The one in the new bike is done anyway so may as well replace with something better.
I will invest in gs911 at your advice.