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Old 10-23-2012, 07:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Strange issue

Hello all,
Recently came across an issue with my '11 S1000RR.
Took it down to the Phillip Island GP Circuit in Victoria, Australia for a ride day.
Early into my 4th session (of 6) for the day, i rounded Siberia, ducked into the kink at the hayshed and suddenly the TC light comes hard on, i hadnt lost traction, the bike then sputlered and refused to react to the throttle.
I was forced to pull off the circuit onto the grass and the bike stalled.
I was then unable to start the bike.
No response from the start button, the bike did not even turn over in anyway.
Managed to get the bike back to the pits. The marshals werent happy with me as they believed i had run out of fuel, which of course i hadnt.
Inspected the bike back at the pits, was again unable to start the bike. No response from the start button.
The battery was not flat, as the screen was still lit up as normal.
So unfortunately, i was unable to complete the day, so loaded up the bike and headed home.
For the rest of the day i was unable to start the bike. Figured id call BMW roadside assist in the morning.
The tech comes out, the bike starts on first go (to my embarassment) and acted as normal.
Decided to take the bike into BMW to check it out. On the way there ,again the TC light comes on, this time only flashed a few times and didnt reappear, again this was in a situation where i was not losing any traction. The bike still continued to run this time.
Took bike to dealer and they have come back with no fault found. The boys updated the software and tested the bike and were unable to fault it.
Has anyone come across a similiar before?
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deano View Post
Hello all,
Recently came across an issue with my '11 S1000RR.
Took it down to the Phillip Island GP Circuit in Victoria, Australia for a ride day.
Early into my 4th session (of 6) for the day, i rounded Siberia, ducked into the kink at the hayshed and suddenly the TC light comes hard on, i hadnt lost traction, the bike then sputlered and refused to react to the throttle.
I was forced to pull off the circuit onto the grass and the bike stalled.
I was then unable to start the bike.
No response from the start button, the bike did not even turn over in anyway.
Managed to get the bike back to the pits. The marshals werent happy with me as they believed i had run out of fuel, which of course i hadnt.
Inspected the bike back at the pits, was again unable to start the bike. No response from the start button.
The battery was not flat, as the screen was still lit up as normal.
So unfortunately, i was unable to complete the day, so loaded up the bike and headed home.
For the rest of the day i was unable to start the bike. Figured id call BMW roadside assist in the morning.
The tech comes out, the bike starts on first go (to my embarassment) and acted as normal.
Decided to take the bike into BMW to check it out. On the way there ,again the TC light comes on, this time only flashed a few times and didnt reappear, again this was in a situation where i was not losing any traction. The bike still continued to run this time.
Took bike to dealer and they have come back with no fault found. The boys updated the software and tested the bike and were unable to fault it.
Has anyone come across a similiar before?
Did they check the battery. These bike are very sensetive to voltage drop. Even though your bike is a 2011 the battery could be bad. Just a slight voltage drop could do it.
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BruceV View Post
Did they check the battery. These bike are very sensetive to voltage drop. Even though your bike is a 2011 the battery could be bad. Just a slight voltage drop could do it.
Not sure if they checked the battery or not
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Deano View Post
Not sure if they checked the battery or not
If you have a good mutimeter check the voltage yourself. Test the standing voltage - bike off - check voltage at idle - check voltage around 3K rpm's and see what you have. I don't have the service CD so I can't tell you what the voltage numbers should be at those readings. Call your dealer's service dept. and ask them for them. I can tell you that you are better off getting the numbers from the dealer. We all can tell you what they would be normally but we are talking BMW. My F800GS eats batteries - known problem - the bike can't actually charge it to the correct voltage and over time the battery just dies. The voltage regulator does not put out enough juice.
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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First thing I would check, is battery cables and voltage drop. Use a good DVOM to test it during cranking from the battery LUG. Not the cable attached to the battery. If you have a poor connection at the cable from the lug, you'll miss it by testing attached to the cable end. Run the positive lead to the lug on the battery and the other lead to the positive on the starter post. Again. Not the cable end. Set the meter to peak voltage and crank/start it. Read the captured voltage peak and see if it's over 900 M/A or more. It could go as high as 1.2 volts. Anything beyond that is an excessive voltage drop. Do the same thing on the ground side. Just switch the leads. Neg. on battery lug and positive on the ground strap bolt. Not the cable ends. It should read below 1.2 volts while cranking also I would shoot for 900 M/A or less, myself.

The most overlooked problem is loose battery cables at the battery. People just don't understand the value of properly tightened battery cables. Check them with a 10mm socket. Not just looking or wiggling. Use a socket and ratchet to tighten them down. Heat and vibration makes the contact of the cable change. After it cools off, the bike will have enough contact to start again. Don't be fooled by a simple loose battery cable. Most dealers will never check the basics and you'll keep having this problem.
Start with properly checking the cables and move to the voltage drop test, if necessary.

You also want to make sure your battery voltage isn't dropping below 9 volts with the starter engaged. Anything under 9 volts is a problem and I like to see at least 9 to 9.5 volts while cranking.


I'm a geek and use my Pico DSO to check this stuff. Here's an idea of what I'm doing. Voltage drop tests are quick an easy with a DSO, but a DVOM works too.

This is a VDT and a current draw test on my truck. It's the same thing on a bike, just lower current usage from the starter. The red line represents amperage/current draw. The blue line represents battery voltage. Battery voltage at key on, then to crank/start mode and back to run mode after the engine starts. You can see the voltage rise as the alternator starts charging. This voltage drop is critical for the onboard electronics to function properly while cranking the engine. It shows the battery voltage dropped to 9.27 volts. That's OK. This isn't the same type of voltage drop as described when check the battery cables. This is a battery test and you should test yours the same, if the cables aren't found to be the problem.

Do you maintain your battery with a battery tender ? My battery cables were loose from day one. If the tech who prepped the bike isn't paying attention to this, you'll have nightmares until it corrected
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Last edited by DrD; 10-24-2012 at 03:36 AM.
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Old 10-24-2012, 01:48 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Deano View Post
Not sure if they checked the battery or not
Keep us posted on your status. I know the 12 models have the starter button issue when it gets too hot but that does not account for the TC light.
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deano View Post
Hello all,
Recently came across an issue with my '11 S1000RR.
Took it down to the Phillip Island GP Circuit in Victoria, Australia for a ride day.
Early into my 4th session (of 6) for the day, i rounded Siberia, ducked into the kink at the hayshed and suddenly the TC light comes hard on, i hadnt lost traction, the bike then sputlered and refused to react to the throttle.
I was forced to pull off the circuit onto the grass and the bike stalled.
I was then unable to start the bike.
No response from the start button, the bike did not even turn over in anyway.
Managed to get the bike back to the pits. The marshals werent happy with me as they believed i had run out of fuel, which of course i hadnt.
Inspected the bike back at the pits, was again unable to start the bike. No response from the start button.
The battery was not flat, as the screen was still lit up as normal.
So unfortunately, i was unable to complete the day, so loaded up the bike and headed home.
For the rest of the day i was unable to start the bike. Figured id call BMW roadside assist in the morning.
The tech comes out, the bike starts on first go (to my embarassment) and acted as normal.
Decided to take the bike into BMW to check it out. On the way there ,again the TC light comes on, this time only flashed a few times and didnt reappear, again this was in a situation where i was not losing any traction. The bike still continued to run this time.
Took bike to dealer and they have come back with no fault found. The boys updated the software and tested the bike and were unable to fault it.
Has anyone come across a similiar before?
I had that problem in the beginning of the season. The weird thing is it happend after I removed the servo motors...The bike would turn on but when trying to start it doesnt do anything...What I did is turned the bike on let it roll faster then 5km and then try(worked for me a few times) or reset the battery? anyway i reinstalled the servo motors after that i had no problems what so ever..So maybe this could help you

Ps . and the tc land came on to with mine while riding i should have it on video somewhere if people are curious enough to see whats going on ill post it up

greg

Last edited by GregSKRR; 10-24-2012 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Havent experienced this with my bike but we had a honda accord if i remember correctly it was an 06 but the point is when we were driving it the exact same thing would happen as you described traction control came on and everything. But then later after a start up everything would be fine. we took it too multiple dealers and car max and they couldn't find anything. Then another person we ran into with an accord same problem just got a new battery and no problems after but we had gotten rid of the car by then lol

Not saying its your battery but I would investigate it first as others said. Be sure to keep us updated on what you find/fix
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Right hand switch block mate. Known problem and your dealer is taking the micky, mine fessed up right off the bat and replaced same under warranty.
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Old 10-25-2012, 02:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Right hand switch block mate. Known problem and your dealer is taking the micky, mine fessed up right off the bat and replaced same under warranty.
Did that fix the TC light too ?
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