Installing Ohlins Forks, Removing Stock Forks, Frt Wheel, and Setting SAG, all in one - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
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Old 07-23-2010, 06:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Installing Ohlins Forks, Removing Stock Forks, Frt Wheel, and Setting SAG, all in one

Removing, and Installing Forks.

This writeup kinda covers a few different things.
Removing and re-installing your front wheel (most of us know this)
Removing and re-installing Forks (if you want to work on them, change fork seals...do any valving, or whatever)
And of course, Installing Ohlins Forks if you decide to upgrade. (often intimidating to some, but actually very easy)

Whatever you take from it, we hope it helps.


So after finally filling all our Customer back orders, we were able to get a set of Ohlins Forks for ourselves ( Customers always come first, even before our project bike)

We get a lot of calls from customers asking.. “Do I need to bring my bike to local dealer, if I want to get Ohlins Forks”

For sure…. If you have a Front and Rear Set of Race Stands….. and a decent tool kit…… then NO. You don’t.
You can easily do it yourself.

Here’s how.

First, put your bike on REAR Race Stand.




.
Since your removing your forks, you will need the Front Stand that goes into your Triple Tree Hole.
We prefer the VORTEX. It’s Rock Solid, easy to use, has Built in Axle Holders, and Easy disassembly for Convenient Travel and storage. Once you use a stand that has REMOVABLE Handles, and Axle Holders, you’ll wonder how you managed without them.
So nice, and so convenient.

The only trick on the S1000RR, Is you have to remove 3 small bolts. (2) that hold the plastic cover on. And one that holds your Brake Line T-Junction. This takes about 1 min.
Then you have clear access to the Triple Tree Hole.



.

Once you have that done, you can raise the front of your bike, so the forks/wheel are dangling there.

Now, loosen and remove your Caliper Bolts, once they are removed, slide your calipers back off the disc.
(Tip: Before you completely slide them off the discs, Slowly and gingerly, twist the calipers on the disc from side to side. (NOT Push and Pull). You want to use the Disc to leverage the pads apart. Just a little bit is all it takes. This will push your pads/pistons back into the caliper a little and make install a LOT easier. Plus, it makes Pad alignment MORE accurate. We will explain that a little later. This will give you the same result as stuffing a screw driver in there and prying the pads apart. Except you don’t have the worry about gouging a chunk of your pad out.



Now your calipers are dangling there. You can get a piece of string to hang them off your clip-ons out of the way, or just be slow and careful when you remove your wheel as not to scratch it.

Next remove your ABS/TC Pickup… located on your Left Fork Leg. One small Bolt. Slide the Sensor away from your forks. It can just dangle there for now.



So, next you loosen your Right Side Fork Axle Pinch bolts. (RIGHT SIDE… NOT left)
Then, remove your Axle with 24mm allen socket. What.. you don’t have one of those sitting in your tool box? ;-)
A little trick we learned, is find a 24mm nut, and put that halfway into the axle, and a 24mm socket onto the other half. All good.
We tried it, and it works.

Remove your axle and put it in your Race Stands Axle Holder. If your stand doesn’t have an Axle holder, put it somewhere out of the way, so you don’t get grease all over the place, and sand & crud all over your axle.


Slowly lower your wheel down, and set it aside out of the way.

Now you have officially removed your front wheel.
Quick and easy and your about ¼ of the way there.

Next remove your front fender (2 little screws on each side). Set your fender OUT of the WAY. You don’t want to scratch it up.


Now if your swapping out your forks, here are the Next Steps.
On the inside of your Left Fork leg, there is a small plate that holds your ABC/TC Wire. Remove that plate from the Fork to Free your wire.
Once the wire is free, put the plate back so it stays with your stock forks.


.


Now loosen the LEFT Fork Leg pinch bolts, and remove the “Quick Install” Threaded Axle Capture/Sleeve”
Then take that sleeve and install it on the Ohlins LEFT Fork leg..

Now, take the Ohlins Fender brackets, and put some Locktite blue on the bolts, and mount the fender brackets.
That’s the ENTIRE “Assembly required” for the forks. They are 100% OEM Fit.







To be Continued........

.

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Old 07-23-2010, 06:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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..

Now your ready to drop your stock fork legs.

Loosen the Lower Triple Tree Pinch Bolts (2) on each side .





Then loosen your Upper Triple Tree Pinch Bolts, and Clip-on Pinch Bolts.
Because of the Tight Tolerance, they should not just fall out. But, still take your time, and keep an eye on them if they start to slide.



Once you have all your pinch bolts removed, slowly lower ONLY one of the Fork Tubes. Do NOT remove them Both.
It helps keep everything in alignment having one in there at all times.



.

Now that you have lowered one of your fork legs, take the Ohlins Leg, and install it back in.
There IS a left and a Right. The ABS/TC holder is built into the LEFT fork leg, so make sure you have them on the proper side.

Another cool design with the Ohlins is they have Fluted Fork Legs.





.
This design reduces weight, and claimed to increase forward/backward rigidity, while allowing some side to side flex.
You get a stiffer fork for braking characteristics, and a more compliant fork when your leaned over in the corner.
Kinda best of both worlds.

Because they are fluted, you need to make sure you have them aligned parallel with the bike, so the machined sides, are on the side. This is eyeballing. You don’t need to pull out a laser sight, or micrometer, or anything like that. It’s pretty straight forward.
It sounds weird, but when you have them in your hands, you will say.. “Ahh.. ok, this is easy enough.”

Slide the Fork Leg all the way to the top of the Triple Tree. Unlike the STOCK Forks that stick out about 1/2” the Ohlins are nearly flush with the Top Triple Tree.



Once you have one side in, tighten all (3) of the Triple Tree Pinch Bolts, and Clip-on Pinch Bolt (Torque: 19-20 N/mm)
(Note your clip-on has a small dowel pin that seats into the underside of your triple tree for proper alignment. ).





.


TO BE CONTINUED............
.




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Old 07-23-2010, 06:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Now remove the Other Stock Fork Leg and do the same thing.
Before you crank down the 2nd Fork Leg, make sure the forks are EXACTLY the same height. You can do this by placing the axle in the fork bottoms and slide it all the way over. There should be No resistance as you slide it back and forth. This will confirm if your forks are square.
Once this is done, you can tighten the other Triple Tree Pinch Bolts, and Clip-on Pinch Bolt.


.
We put loctite blue on the Axle pinch bolts, simply because we are anal, and the bolts are upside down.


You should already have the Left Side Pinch bolts tight, when you installed the “Quick Install” Threaded Axle Capture/Sleeve”
If not, tighten it now.

Then slowly put your wheel in and slide your axle through and tighten your axle 50 N/mm.
Now tighten your right side pinch bolts.

Take your calipers and re-install them on your rotors, and tighten down your caliper bolts 38 N/mm.


Take your ABS/TC Sensor and re-install it on the new forks using stock bolt. (recommend loctite blue)



.


If you followed our tip earlier, your pads should be spread and your wheel should easily spin freely, with almost no resistance.


To Properly seat your Front Pads, Spin your front wheel has fast as you can (FORWARD) while on your race stand, and Grab HARD your Front brake Lever.
This Motion will Seat your pads in the best “Centered” alignment on your discs, for least amount of drag on your rotors.
You can do it more then once, if you like. But, it usually only takes one time.

You do NOT have to do this procedure. But after 1000 + wheel changes over the past 20 years of racing…….. This works best.
At least it does for us. ;-)

Next put the bolt back in that holds your Front Brake Line T-Juntion, and re-install the plastic cover.


Now install your front fender back on.

That’s it. Your all done. See that wasn’t so bad.

BEFORE you lower your bike To the ground take a minute and measure your sag.
Pick a point on your fork leg and take a measurement. We use the bottom lip of the fork dust seal To the Top edge of the fork bottom. Ours came out to 127mm or 5”
Then lower your bike down to the ground. And Bounce up and down on the forks.
Then have someone hold your bike upright, while you are sitting on the bike, feet off the ground.
Take that measurement AGAIN. Ours was 3.375” or 85mm
The Difference between the Two measurements is how far your forks travel from Fully UNLOADED, to LOADED with RIDER on the bike. Also called SAG. It should be about 40-42mm give or take.
This will be a good starting point to know your springs are set for your rider weight.

Now, go out and ride, and enjoy your new forks.


.



.
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Old 10-21-2010, 06:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for info, i have 2 questions why are new forks set level with tripple clamps, are they different lenths? and do the have to drill the nickel calipers to fit on guides were the caliper mounts to fork?
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Old 10-21-2010, 07:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubbo0 View Post
Thanks for info, i have 2 questions why are new forks set level with tripple clamps,
have another look I see 4 lines showing in pic #10 ?
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Old 10-21-2010, 11:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Great write up!!! Thanks!!

Put a copy over in the DIY area --> http://www.s1000rrforum.com/forum/s1...g-all-one.html
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Old 10-22-2010, 04:25 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WISKEY TANGO FOXTROT OVER View Post
have another look I see 4 lines showing in pic #10 ?
I think those are the stock forks in the picture.
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Old 10-22-2010, 08:43 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Godzilla View Post
I think those are the stock forks in the picture.

DAMN you could be right there, sorry.
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Old 10-22-2010, 08:52 AM   #9 (permalink)
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what camera are you using for these photos?
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Old 10-22-2010, 10:43 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubbo0 View Post
Thanks for info, i have 2 questions why are new forks set level with tripple clamps, are they different lenths? and do the have to drill the nickel calipers to fit on guides were the caliper mounts to fork?
.

The Ohlins are slightly shorter then the stock ones, in that they don't need to stick out of the top of the triple clap 1/2" like the stock ones.

The Nickel Calipers, are OEM Fit on the Stock Forks... and/or the Ohlins Forks.

The Only difference was you remove the inserts, before you install the calipers.



.
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