Installing Ohlins Forks, Removing Stock Forks, Frt Wheel, and Setting SAG, all in one - Page 2

RIQUE · 11-29-2012, 07:38 PM

ITS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT THE UNITS LISTED IN THIS PROCEDURE SHOULD READ N/m and not N/mm. Make sure you get this right or maybe the original poster should correct.

RIQUE · 05-12-2013, 11:27 AM

Hey Folks, This weekend I re installed my front shocks. I decided to fine tune the position and after talking to Dan Kyle, reading on the net, cross referencing pictures etc. I have come to the conclusion that the correct fork position for the FGRT 202 is the one that aligns the fork flute edge to the bottom of the lower triple. 5mm should protrude beyond the beveled angle on the top of the fork head. My pictures and some from the net. Hope this helps others reduce their labor time. Riq

**1000RR** · 05-12-2013, 11:39 AM

Great post Rique, having a good starting point will definitely save time. But for those reading and you as well. Keep in mind, this is a geometry setup that will be good for some and not as good for others. And depending on the application (what track, conditions, etc.) is just that - a starting point. Geometry fine tuning is VERY much a personal preference although there are certainly some things that most everyone would agree - just don't work well!

Suspension is a never ending mission. You're always chasing something. I'm definitely learning that a lot these days trying to chase tenths. The trick is to know just what to change

RIQUE · 05-12-2013, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1000RR

Great post Rique, having a good starting point will definitely save time. But for those reading and you as well. Keep in mind, this is a geometry setup that will be good for some and not as good for others. And depending on the application (what track, conditions, etc.) is just that - a starting point. Geometry fine tuning is VERY much a personal preference although there are certainly some things that most everyone would agree - just don't work well!

Suspension is a never ending mission. You're always chasing something. I'm definitely learning that a lot these days trying to chase tenths. The trick is to know just what to change

I certainly agree that you need to fine tune to your rideing application and style. However, my point is that if you start with the top regulators flush as can be seen on the right side fork the setup is incorrect and bike will not turn as also reported by other users on this forum.

**1000RR** · 05-12-2013, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RIQUE

I certainly agree that you need to fine tune to your rideing application and style. However, my point is that if you start with the top regulators flush as can be seen on the right side fork the setup is incorrect and bike will not turn as also reported by other users on this forum.

True (for some, maybe many). But there are some riders that don't mind that little battle to obtain more stability (which is the trade-off). For example, Taylor Knapp is known for preferring a front end high because that battle we're talking about doesn't affect him as much - he's a tall lanky guy that can use that leverage to tip it in all day. The other thing noteworth of mentioning is tires and their impact (height/width). Which can result in further changes to geometry.

Bottom line is to start w/a known geometry for a particular tire and then your life has been made easier. That said, maybe I missed it, what rear ride height did Dan Kyle recommend for the front end geometry you've gone with?

**HardRacing** · 05-12-2013, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RIQUE

... 5mm should protrude beyond the beveled angle on the top of the fork head. My pictures and some from the net. Hope this helps others reduce their labor time. Riq

.

LOL.. Hey that's our bike in the 2nd Pic.

We came to same conclusion you did when we installed the Forks back a couple years ago... before that Sport Rider Photo Shoot.

.

RIQUE · 05-12-2013, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1000RR

True (for some, maybe many). But there are some riders that don't mind that little battle to obtain more stability (which is the trade-off). For example, Taylor Knapp is known for preferring a front end high because that battle we're talking about doesn't affect him as much - he's a tall lanky guy that can use that leverage to tip it in all day. The other thing noteworth of mentioning is tires and their impact (height/width). Which can result in further changes to geometry.

Bottom line is to start w/a known geometry for a particular tire and then your life has been made easier. That said, maybe I missed it, what rear ride height did Dan Kyle recommend for the front end geometry you've gone with?

He suggested I flip the rear shock top bolt holder. That gives you around 2cm extention in the rear...not really sure I should do that though..,

RIQUE · 05-12-2013, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HardRacing

.

LOL.. Hey that's our bike in the 2nd Pic.

We came to same conclusion you did when we installed the Forks back a couple years ago... before that Sport Rider Photo Shoot.

.

LOL...I just figured that out. It is your awsome bike. Have you tried rotating the rear top mount bolt for the shock thingy?

**HardRacing** · 05-12-2013, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RIQUE

LOL...I just figured that out. It is your awsome bike. Have you tried rotating the rear top mount bolt for the shock thingy?

.

It is a setup that BMW specifically designed as an Option.

But, we never go around to trying it.

.

**1000RR** · 05-12-2013, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RIQUE

He suggested I flip the rear shock top bolt holder. That gives you around 2cm extention in the rear...not really sure I should do that though..,

My guess is it gives you 2X that, right?! So 4mm... I imagine it's a 2mm offset so flipping it would give you two times that.

If Dan said to do it, I'd go with his advice. He knows his suspension stuff! It will tip in better too.