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Old 05-04-2010, 07:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default help with rear spring preload

i am the 195 pound guy bouncing off the seat. just checked rear sag (with my wife measuring, and me gently holding onto a shelf,wish me luck) and i got exactly one inch of sag in the back. will not attempt the front, until i get my buddies to help me. anyway when i put the spanner wrench on, and grab the first hook onto the ring, the 3rd hook on the wrench falls a little short of dropping in the appropriate slot on the ring. i can see the middle hook is lined up to drop in the slot on the ring but cant as the 3rd hook will not drop. at first i thought that was happening as the wrench was spanning the locking screw. but even if i move a spot not spanning the screw it wont drop in. as a consequence i am chewing up the ring. also i had to put a 15 inch copper pipe on the wrench to move the ring. the supplied tool kit extension was not enough leverage. the bike is on a rear stand. i was going to spray the ring and try again, but i will still chew the ring up. i used to use a punch on my other bikes, so i am not sure how much torque is normal. still have to pull awful hard with the 15 inch pipe on the wrench. by the way, i was going to add some more sag. will this decrease my bouncing?,or do i want less sag. advice appreciated.
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Old 05-04-2010, 07:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I personally think you're bottoming out, so yes, I think you'll be happy with more preload. Find a little circuit you can run - I used a 200-yard stretch of waterfront with a lot of bumps; and start changing things bit by bit. If this is true, what you really want is more spring rate, but without changing springs you'll have to add more preload and live with *less* sag. Downside is the bike will top out over potholes, but that's better than bottoming out over bumps, usually.

The stock spanner needs to be fitted on from *above* the collar to get it to fit in all the grooves properly, you can't just hook it on from the middle. Yes that's a PITA, but it keeps it from coming off. I personally use a more standard shock spanner wrench without the middle bit, because I have one laying around. Makes it a lot easier. If you go in from the left side of the bike, access really isn't that bad, and mine is actually quite easy to turn with a reasonable (8-10") long handle.

KeS

Last edited by kevin_stevens; 05-04-2010 at 07:38 PM.
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Old 05-04-2010, 07:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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TDA was having the same problem.

Here is what he did

" Shock adjustment
Dan,
I gave the collar a shot of teflon based lube and got a universal spanner so I could avoid using the tool from the tool kit. It made a HUGE difference. I was able to turn it with no issues whatsoever. Thank you for all of your help."

As far as a sag number I would start with 30 MM.
30 mm is measured from the bike topped out, (The shock fully extended) to you sitting on the bike.
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Old 05-04-2010, 07:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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When i unlocked the collar nut it moves with little pressure from the tool kit extenion wrench spanner tool... Then lock the nut .
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Old 05-04-2010, 09:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default thanks guys

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin_stevens View Post
I personally think you're bottoming out, so yes, I think you'll be happy with more preload. Find a little circuit you can run - I used a 200-yard stretch of waterfront with a lot of bumps; and start changing things bit by bit. If this is true, what you really want is more spring rate, but without changing springs you'll have to add more preload and live with *less* sag. Downside is the bike will top out over potholes, but that's better than bottoming out over bumps, usually.

The stock spanner needs to be fitted on from *above* the collar to get it to fit in all the grooves properly, you can't just hook it on from the middle. Yes that's a PITA, but it keeps it from coming off. I personally use a more standard shock spanner wrench without the middle bit, because I have one laying around. Makes it a lot easier. If you go in from the left side of the bike, access really isn't that bad, and mine is actually quite easy to turn with a reasonable (8-10") long handle.

KeS
never thought about sliding wrench in from the top. guess i am losing my touch. will squirt with lube and will add some preload. thanks for the help guys!
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Old 05-04-2010, 10:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Right on kevin-more preload, no bouncing

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin_stevens View Post
i personally think you're bottoming out, so yes, i think you'll be happy with more preload. Find a little circuit you can run - i used a 200-yard stretch of waterfront with a lot of bumps; and start changing things bit by bit. If this is true, what you really want is more spring rate, but without changing springs you'll have to add more preload and live with *less* sag. Downside is the bike will top out over potholes, but that's better than bottoming out over bumps, usually.

The stock spanner needs to be fitted on from *above* the collar to get it to fit in all the grooves properly, you can't just hook it on from the middle. Yes that's a pita, but it keeps it from coming off. I personally use a more standard shock spanner wrench without the middle bit, because i have one laying around. Makes it a lot easier. If you go in from the left side of the bike, access really isn't that bad, and mine is actually quite easy to turn with a reasonable (8-10") long handle.

Kes
good call kevin. Gave it one turn of more preload and just went around my neighborhood, and felt much more compliant. Looked for the manholes and broken pavement and it is a huge improvement.
Its 10:00pm now so i will try one more turn and see how it feels tomorrow. If good will reset compression and rebound more toward the middle range. Right now they are set soft. Can't remember who also said he went counterclock two turns and had big change. Thanks to all for the help. Did not think preload could have that much effect.
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Old 05-10-2010, 04:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Is it me, or is the Owners Manual incorrect re: rear preload. It says that you turn from left to right to INCREASE preload. Seems like that would be DECREASING preload. Are the threads reversed? Anyone? Thanks.
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Old 05-10-2010, 04:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zx9rmal View Post
Is it me, or is the Owners Manual incorrect re: rear preload. It says that you turn from left to right to INCREASE preload. Seems like that would be DECREASING preload. Are the threads reversed? Anyone? Thanks.
The threads are standard. Clockwise to add preload, widdershins to reduce preload, as viewed from the top of the shock. I don't know what the manual says. Left/right is meaningless to me on a circular collar.

KeS

Last edited by kevin_stevens; 05-10-2010 at 04:39 PM.
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Old 05-10-2010, 09:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin_stevens View Post
The threads are standard. Clockwise to add preload, widdershins to reduce preload, as viewed from the top of the shock. I don't know what the manual says. Left/right is meaningless to me on a circular collar.

KeS
That's what I thought. Every shock I've ever adjusted was clockwise + and counterclockwise -. I used "left to right" because the manual shows that on page 48. I also checked another bike, and my adjustment went the right way.
Thanks for the confirm.
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin_stevens View Post
The threads are standard. Clockwise to add preload, widdershins to reduce preload, as viewed from the top of the shock. I don't know what the manual says. Left/right is meaningless to me on a circular collar.

KeS
Thanks for clearing that up! I followed the manual to reduce preload and ended up decreasing the sag. I thought I was losing my mind.
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