My '11 S1K beats me to death! - Page 2 - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 04:42 PM
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At 140 lbs, you will have to re-spring the Bike.. even if you CAN get your sag figure close with the stock springs, they will be at their very limit of softness to get you there, with almost ALL preload backed off and as soon as you start to compress them, they are still too stiff and your weight cannot possibly allow them to use the full travel (compression) of the spring and therefore you cannot use all of the travel of the forks or shocks to soak up the bumps.

Your compression and rebound seem WAAAAAY off.. even if you are tracking the bike on a super smooth track, those settings are just not right.

What type of roads are you riding on mostly? That's a good place to start. Really bumpy, broken surfaces require softer setups in terms of compression damping.

Write down all your present settings:

Then back your fork compression off to 2 or 3; do the same with your rear shock. Ride the bike.. does it feel better/less rough? Does it allow you to use ALL of the travel in forks and shocks? I can almost guarantee you it doesn't because of the spring rate, but it SHOULD make the Bike better and less harsh.

Because you are now allowing the forks and shock to compress more fully and faster, you will need to adjust your rebound accordingly.

The real answer is to re-spring and re-valve your bike. My Wife (at 130 lbs) is riding a Triumph Daytona 675R on the street and on the track (she's in the intermediate race groups) even with the best Ohlins stuff on the Bike (TTX36 and NIX 30) it ws WAAAAAY too rough for her.. I would follow her on our Sunday rides and she would be getting bucked out of the seat and the bike was actually leaving the ground. We took it to Dan Kyle Racing and had it re-sprung, re-valved and new oil with different level. She immediately went 4 seconds a lap quicker at Thunderhill Raceway and the bike soaks up all the bumps on the back roads.. She's 100% happier with the bike now and also considerably faster.

Last edited by sbs; 12-07-2012 at 04:50 PM.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Dogged View Post

He still suggests re-springing and re-valving the front at about $700. He said the best solution would be Ohlin cartridges at about $ 1600, but the best bang for the buck is the cheaper re-valving.

Any thoughts?
Whats your SAG #s front and rear in mm? This is a good starting point (see note below). I'm out of adjustment at the front at 42.5mm and 30mm at the rear (rear is pretty good at stock setting for me). I weigh approx 175 with gear.

Revalving and re-springing your front forks should be justified on the basis of what you plan on doing with the bike? Track, canyons, street ride?

If you can justify getting the Ohlins cart kit for what you plan on doing with your ride, then go for it.

Note: Also, spoke with many Susp guys, locally, and Ohlins reps throughout the US. For the BMW, optimum SAG for the S1000rr is 40mm at the front and 30mm at the rear. If you can't get these SAG numbers on stock settings, you might as well upgrade your susp
Hope this helps!

1986 BMW 316i (1st bimmer) sold
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-ZGravity corsa w/s, Yoshi sliders, RG mirror blk offs, GB case svrs, CRG lvrs, Andreani Group 30mm kit, XBK5 pads, Woodcraft spools, stompgrips, Attack rearsets, Ohlins damper, Renthal sprockets, DIDERV3 chain 520 Conv, Full race Akrapovic SS w carbon hanger, BrenTuned
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhockey18aa View Post
Whats your SAG #s front and rear in mm? This is a good starting point (see note below). I'm out of adjustment at the front at 42.5mm and 30mm at the rear (rear is pretty good at stock setting for me). I weigh approx 175 with gear.

Revalving and re-springing your front forks should be justified on the basis of what you plan on doing with the bike? Track, canyons, street ride?

If you can justify getting the Ohlins cart kit for what you plan on doing with your ride, then go for it.

Note: Also, spoke with many Susp guys, locally, and Ohlins reps throughout the US. For the BMW, optimum SAG for the S1000rr is 40mm at the front and 30mm at the rear. If you can't get these SAG numbers on stock settings, you might as well upgrade your susp
Hope this helps!
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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I had it set way softer when I first came to the track. When we bounced the bike with me on it, it had a lot of oscillation on the softer settings. That's why the front had to get harder. It's probably a combination of my light weight and the spring's preload not being in their sweet spot. They are not at their limit, but they are certantly close.

Do you guys think I can get by with just reworking the front?
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbs View Post
At 140 lbs, you will have to re-spring the Bike.. even if you CAN get your sag figure close with the stock springs, they will be at their very limit of softness to get you there, with almost ALL preload backed off and as soon as you start to compress them, they are still too stiff and your weight cannot possibly allow them to use the full travel (compression) of the spring and therefore you cannot use all of the travel of the forks or shocks to soak up the bumps.

Your compression and rebound seem WAAAAAY off.. even if you are tracking the bike on a super smooth track, those settings are just not right.

What type of roads are you riding on mostly? That's a good place to start. Really bumpy, broken surfaces require softer setups in terms of compression damping.
...
The real answer is to re-spring and re-valve your bike. My Wife is riding a Triumph Daytona 675R on the street and on the track (she's in the intermediate race groups) even with the best Ohlins stuff on the Bike (TTX36 and NIX 30) it ws WAAAAAY too rough for her.. I would follow her on our Sunday rides and she would be getting bucked out of the seat and the bike was actually leaving the ground. We took it to Dan Kyle Racing and had it re-sprung, re-valved and new oil with different level. She immediately went 4 seconds a lap quicker at Thunderhill Raceway and the bike soaks up all the bumps on the back roads.. She's 100% happier with the bike now and also considerably faster.
Valid points sbs! And yup, my forks are getting shipped to Dan Kyle for Christmas, 30mm cart kit for me!
Wow 4 sec difference! Definitely an improvement with plush susp settings, thats awesome man! Money well spent!

1986 BMW 316i (1st bimmer) sold
1993 BMW 318i (Euro spec) sold
2003 BMW 325i sold
2006 Kawi ZX6R (my first love) sold
2010 Kawi BruteForce 750i sold
2011 BMW 328XI
2011 BMW S1K Yellow
-ZGravity corsa w/s, Yoshi sliders, RG mirror blk offs, GB case svrs, CRG lvrs, Andreani Group 30mm kit, XBK5 pads, Woodcraft spools, stompgrips, Attack rearsets, Ohlins damper, Renthal sprockets, DIDERV3 chain 520 Conv, Full race Akrapovic SS w carbon hanger, BrenTuned
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dogged View Post
I had it set way softer when I first came to the track. When we bounced the bike with me on it, it had a lot of oscillation on the softer settings. That's why the front had to get harder. It's probably a combination of my light weight and the spring's preload not being in their sweet spot. They are not at their limit, but they are certantly close.

Do you guys think I can get by with just reworking the front?
There are a lot of ways to half-ass this, but only a couple to get it correct. Respring/revalve both ends, get the Ohlins inserts, or Spend $4K on full Ohlins shock and Forks.

Depends on your budget, how good/fast you are, where you will ride mostly.

If you are budget limited, then I would start with the rear shock. It's progressively sprung and set to work for a 180lb person, all the way up to two people weighing 300+ lbs.. A new spring is $40-$80, VERY cheap way to get a ton of bang for your buck. Revalving would also help, as would putting a different weight oil in it.

The forks can be resprung for around $80-$150... while they are apart, new valves would be a good idea and again thinner weight oil (it flows faster than thicker weight oil and works better for lighter people).

Do it in steps, with the knowledge that in a few months you will have a Bike that's at least got the correct springs for your weight and should be considerably better than what you have right now, for not a lot of cash.

Of course, you could do all that work and spend money and not like it still, at which point your only options are Ohlins inserts or full Ohlins (or some combo of Penke/Ohlins/other 3rd party shock vendor) and you will have wasted money on the stock suspension that could have gone to the full Ohlins.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhockey18aa View Post
Valid points sbs! And yup, my forks are getting shipped to Dan Kyle for Christmas, 30mm cart kit for me!
Wow 4 sec difference! Definitely an improvement with plush susp settings, thats awesome man! Money well spent!
As you know, confidence in your Bike is worth a ton; the 4 seconds is a combination of actual mechanical differences and the suspension working better + her improved confidence in the Bike.
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