some questions about suspension settings for newbie - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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some questions about suspension settings for newbie

Hey all.
I'm coming from the car racing world where we deal with camber, swaybar settings, toe and rake.

So I had a few questions without getting too much into it perhaps someone can answer for me being specific to a 2012 S1000RR

Sag questions:
1) What is the recommended sag front and back for street riding?
2) What is the recommended sag front and back for track days?
3) If I have 40mm sag in the front and shooting for 30mm which way do I turn the knob?
4) If I have 40mm sag in the rear and shooting for 30mm which should I turn the adjuster (looking from the left side of the bike) left or right?


Rebound / Compression questions:
1) What adjustments are common for the bike to dive in (tip in) more easily into corners?
2) what adjustments are common to make the bike "stand up" after a corner more easily?
3) What adjustments make the bike "flick" from side to side more easily?
4) what settings are common if I want my bike to be very stable in a straight line like highway riding?
5) are there any settings that help the bike be more stable in the mid corner stage?

I noticed that the motorcycle likes to stand up when applying the brakes. In the car world, we trail brake often. On the motorcycle I find that trying to turn the bike in while still on the brakes proves a difficult task. Any suspension adjustments that help in this?

Unfortunately everything with suspension is give and take I assume just like with cars. My ideal bike would be very stable and comfortable in a straight line, tip in nicely even under braking, be very stable mid corner, and won't be too eager to stand back up on corner exit under throttle.


Thank you!

Last edited by noamkrief; 11-28-2012 at 09:20 PM.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 09:33 PM
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This will get you going.... Suspension Guide? - 13x Forums

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 09:36 PM
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As for trail braking... Trail braking will allow the bike to tip in easier because you're changing the geometry of the bike (w/the brakes on)... With the nose compressed down, the bike will tip easier.

My guess is that the reason you're finding it difficult to tip in has more to do with your technique (body position, vision, etc.).

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 10:07 PM
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From your post I have a feeling you have been racing on four wheels but are new to two. If you brake through a turn your bike will stand up. A very dangerous thing to do if you are starting to go wide. Very common to squids and rookies. If u brake before you turn and modulate your braking throught the turn then you trail brake. As 1000RR states trail braking will reduce axle distance and help turn in. Getting on the gas as soon as possible will then plant the bike and stabilize the bike as you exit the turn. My I suggest you take it easy until you know the ropes. Drive safe.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. My technique indeed is flawed since i'm so new I'm sure.

One thing i'm having a huge issue with is reading in the manual so confused i won't be able to fall asleep tonight:
"to reduce the difference, increase spring pre-load" page 49

So they say to adjust the ring in direction "A" (to the right).
Looking at my bike, this would move the ring UP, and thus would UNCOMPRESS the spring providing the spring more room to expand.

This would also seem to decrease spring preload no?
It also looks as if turning in direction "A" would lower the rear end of the bike which would INCREASE the sag difference.

So I got 3 contradictions here and i'm sure i'm just not getting it.... Can anyone explain it to me in a way I can understand? Maybe everything with bikes is backwards - starting with countersteering hahaha
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 11:29 PM
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For Preload... righty tighty, lefty loosy. (tighty = stiffer). So if you turn your preload clockwise (righty), you will be increasing the preload thereby making the bike sag less.

Think of the rebound and compression adjustments like a water spigot. If you turn the spigot to the right you are shutting down the flow (slower rebound, slower compression), if you turn the spigot to the left, you are increasing flow, faster rebound, faster compression.

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