Did you do a search? This has been addressed numerous times in old HP4 threads.

Did you turn the bike on?? The bike must be on.

 

Summary: I searched the forum after trying to set mine. Not only does the bike need to be on, but needs to be broken in (1k miles) and "warm" (30 min ride) per this post

Thinking things felt a little stiff from my one and only 2.5hr ride so far (90 total miles on bike) and knowing I'm a lightweight compared to the factory expectations (155lbs), I tried to set the sag on my 2015 DDC on a 40 degF winter day. It didn't go well.

Rather than start the bike, I found a 4amp charger kept the battery around 13v. Note the manual doesn't specify the bike needs to be ON for the front fork tests, but it does for the rear. But trust me, it must be on -- try bouncing the front forks when it's off vs on -- it's a huge difference...grab the front brake and push/pull.

Measured 3-5mm front, 12mm rear.

Manual says:
frnt 10-15mm / .40" - .60"
rear 8-12mm / .31" - .47"

So rear is in the ballpark, made no adjustment there. Forks seem to have a bit of stiction too, so measurements were not very repeatable, but I'm clearly far short of where I need to be. But grabbing the socket wrench, I found the adjuster bound up after just half a turn (loosen direction)... preload was only 1/2 turn from full soft. I essentially had nowhere to go but into the DDC menus and set the front to -7 for Rain, -5 for Sport and Race. I'm just streeting it, so softer will be fine for break-in.

Hope that helps!

 

Measured 3-5mm front, 12mm rear.

Manual says:
frnt 10-15mm / .40" - .60"
rear 8-12mm / .31" - .47"

So rear is in the ballpark, made no adjustment there. Forks seem to have a bit of stiction too, so measurements were not very repeatable, but I'm clearly far short of where I need to be. But grabbing the socket wrench, I found the adjuster bound up after just half a turn (loosen direction)... preload was only 1/2 turn from full soft. I essentially had nowhere to go but into the DDC menus and set the front to -7 for Rain, -5 for Sport and Race. I'm just streeting it, so softer will be fine for break-in.

Hope that helps!

so with preload basically full soft you had 3-5mm sag at the front with the bike on and warm ?

 

Thanks for the help bratburner! I'm going to check my preload setting..hopefully I have some more adjustment there

 

I think those numbers refer to static sag, not rider sag. The manual has numbers for both.

 

I think those numbers refer to static sag, not rider sag.

nope, those numbers are what bmw call "negative spring displacement" and it's the difference between the static sag and rider sag numbers.

 

Hey everyone, I'm all new to all of this. I have a basic idea of how it all works but have no good idea for my suspension settings because I'm around 145lbs.

My question is, does anyone know of any good suspension/ tuners in the Los Angeles area that could measure me and suggest the right spring for front and rear and if need be?

Thanks in advance.
-Vlad

 

If your read through this guide, you will find at least 3 maybe 4 in SoCal.

Suspension Buyer’s Guide

 

Does the data logger output suspension travel?
If you could graph suspension travel, you could find out what your sag REALLY is, by determining the average ride height while riding. Sort of an active sag, if you will.
This would be way more accurate then trying to set it in the garage.
Just wondering if this is possible, it would definitely be the best way.
Of course, you would need the 2D sensor to do the front.

 

The data logger is awesome .. What this video by Motorrad

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94KAn5TgWMc&feature=youtu.be

It does record suspension, and add that 2D front sensor and really get it all working together.

 

That's awesome!
Why does it say you have to go to a dealer to program?
You can't change settings (like suspension) in the pits?

 

Did a little search, first topic to pop-up

thought i would let it here, no biggie

Motorcycle Suspension Set-up

tldr

 

DON'T ADJUST SAG UNLESS KEY IS ON AND KILL SWITCH IN 'ENGINE ON' POSITION

you'll fark the rear adjuster real good and then you'll be stuck with the preload you are at! hope you weren't planning on gaining / losing any weight!!!

 

oh snap

good to know

:grin2:

 

alright so i did measure the sag today. rear measures are taken from 90degrees, swingarm to tail
feel free to post your results as well

here are my results

Free travel
Front 115mm
Rear 580mm

Static Sag (Bike weight 204kg)
Front 93mm (22)
Rear 566mm (14)

Rider Sag (85KG)
Front 82mm (11)
Rear 556mm (10)

Total Preload travel
33mm Front
24mm Rear

 

I like this method, it takes an average of the sag to account for friction...

PS I know it's an R1, but it's the principle.

 

Hopped on the old scale...... 84 kg. Thanks!

 

Compression can't be adjusted unless the key is on. The gauges have to be powered up.

 

He is talking about the issue where the rear preload adjuster breaks and just spins. Not sure that the valving closed off causes this but plausible.

Couple of members had issues with failed rear preload adjuster.

 

You can crank on the rear spring adjustment all you want to with the key off.

However, you need to do a CALIB with the new spring SAG setting. The BMW manual does indicate you can do this on the side stand, but I have found there is a little difference with the actual measurement with the bike setting on the side stand vs using a rear stand to support the rear tire off the ground and the bike level standing upright.

The DDC electronic adjustments require the key on, engine off, engine kill switch in the RUN position. You go into the cluster settings and find DDC calibration and do the CALIB. if you get an error see this posting http://www.s1000rrforum.com/forum/s...-hp4-suspension-setup-mods/120530-2015-suspension-ddc-sys-setup-calib-fail.html

 

The owner's manual clearly states that the ignition must be on to adjust rear preload. Whether it's necessary or not, I don't know.

 

I'm one of the guys that had the mechanical spring preload adjuster break and just spin. The shop broke that for me....Think of it as 2 different systems. The preload is that collar on the shock, top of it, and is strictly mechanical. There is nothing electronic about that part of the shock. There is a wire that goes into the shock on the bottom but that is for the internal valving only, not the mechanical preload. While the two systems are independent from each other, they work together. The top preload portion can be completely removed from the shock once the spring is removed. It fits in the palm of your hand and is not sold separately at the dealer in the parts fiche.

The wiring going into the shock is to raise and lower a (for lack of better words as I don't know what to call it exactly) needle and seat type setup like you'd find on any carb. This change in height allows for more or less flow through an orifice, as the needle raises more flow, as it lowers into the seat less flow. That changes the rate of compression or rebound, maybe both. I'm sorry I just don't know that.

So my opinion on this is for you to accurately set sag the key has to be on so the valving is not set in the closed position. If in fact that is what happens, I don't know where it "sits" key off but you do want to know it can flow through that orifice when you are on the bike making those sag adjustments. Key doesn't have to be on to mechanically change the height of the collar which in turn raises and lowers the bike, but why would you want to do that and fight against the "possibly" closed internal valving system to get an erroneous reading on sag?

I am not an engineer, I'm a parts guy for Audi/Porsche parts so I am familiar with parts diagrams and like many of you here have worked on carbs, suspension and engines as a hobby for a long time. I've never seen a blow up of the internals of this shock, but from taking it apart and from what I know about suspension and front fork valving, carbs, etc, this is how I understand our electronic DDC system to work. I have put it into terms that I'm familiar with using to describe the system as I know it.

So when the dealer says the key has to be on or things will break in the rear suspension, I think that's incorrect. If they say it should be on to accurately set sag adjustments, they'd be correct. The strange thing is when I've jounced the rear of my bike key on and key off, I don't really notice much difference other than it's stiff either way. Or I'm a lightweight!
I hope this helps describe the system a bit better for those that have never dealt with it at all. Suspension tuners that read my description will probably laugh at how I did it but hopefully shed light on it to make it better!