Request Another Eccentric Bolt Question. - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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Request Another Eccentric Bolt Question.

I've seen plenty of posts saying to flip the rear eccentric washers..... Right? Right!

I finally got to it about 5 mins ago. I Rode it around the block but for haven't really tested the bike out with the new change.

Here's where I got confused..

Can someone who HASN'T flip them yet take a pic of how the washers are installed via oem/stock. Better yet, someone with a 2016 DDC setup.

Reason why I ask.... I was looking at the thread back and his pics are completely backwards from mine.

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Originally Posted by Nobby_Mike View Post
take this out



and switch it round to this position on both sides



My Washer flipped is what his bike was STOCK. Can someone verify the directions of the "fat" portion of the washers? I bought my bike BRAND NEW so I just want to make sure I'm not going backwards lol.

Did BMW do this on the 2016 "stock"? Or was that guys bike used and the previous owner swapped and he just swapped back to OEM?

To me it would make sense for the Fat part to be down which would be putting the rear end UP right?

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Last edited by AlphaKennyBody; 04-23-2017 at 11:52 PM.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 02:09 AM
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I'm going to subscribe to this because i've got a 2011 and i don't have a clue which way those are supposed to be, which is better top or bottom, and what they do to the bike. My 2011 is race only and i've got an Ohlins rear so i have even more reason than street guys (no offence) to want to get this sorted out properly.

Sorry i can't help OP! haha
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 02:44 AM
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Request Another Eccentric Bolt Question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaKennyBody View Post

To me it would make sense for the Fat part to be down which would be putting the rear end UP right?

If the hole is higher in the eccentric it means the shock mount is higher and the rear of the bike is LOWER.

So you put it like the first pic to lower the rear and like the second pic to raise the rear.

When you raise the rear you decrease trail - which makes the bike turn quicker but also makes it less stable at speed.

HP4s actually came stock with an eccentric with the hole dead centre.

I think over the years they have raised he rear to make the bikes turn a bit faster, so the 2016 might have the rear raised.


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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 03:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oz14 View Post
If the hole is higher in the eccentric it means the shock mount is higher and the rear of the bike is LOWER.

So you put it like the first pic to lower the rear and like the second pic to raise the rear.

When you raise the rear you decrease trail - which makes the bike turn quicker but also makes it less stable at speed.

HP4s actually came stock with an eccentric with the hole dead centre.

I think over the years they have raised he rear to make the bikes turn a bit faster, so the 2016 might have the rear raised.


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Okay so then on a 2016, should I got back to stock/oem "raising" the rear which means the Fat part On top as shown in Pic 2?

Or does that mean on 2016's we should be flipping them to lower the rear? I was going to say The bike felt a little lower which is nice for my short self lol.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 08:18 AM
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The 2016 came in the higher position, the opposite to the earlier bikes. Flip it and then ride it. Which position do you like better?

Last edited by skapan; 04-24-2017 at 08:34 AM.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 04:59 PM
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How are you guys supporting the bike to flip the shock eccentric washers?
I used a rear stand on the swing arm spools and I put a rod though the swing arm bolt and on jack stands, but the rod is pretty small diameter because of the SA bolt hole size on the drive chain side (left side). The rod I used was bending so I stopped. Do I just need to get a stronger rod or???
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 05:07 PM
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3rd gen bikes with eccentric wash comes with raised rear OEM, flip it to lower it by 5mm.

I used a central stand. If you don't have one, you can always use jacks under each peg. If you have foldable pegs, you can flip them so they don't fold.

Torque is 56nm for rear shock bolt, which is not mentioned in service manual.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 08:48 PM
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Strap thrown over a ceiling joist, rear stand to steady the bike.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 09:55 PM
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I have a swingarm pivot stand. It's from Anderson Stands in Australia but I've seen similar ones here.
Left (Clutch) side needs a 10mm diameter straight for 35mm long.
Right (Brake) side needs a 17mm for 8mm then a 13mm diameter stem for a further 25-30mm.
Made from tool steel - could hold up a harley + gang banger rider!

I did rear shock service (new spring) and dog bone bearing service this way.

There are threaded holes in the engine for a special BMW adapter that you can use with a scissor jack.
I made a bracket using 2 shelving angles and a 2x4 and lifted the front with a regular fork stand, put it on my bracket and then it stayed put while I removed the forks and greased the steering bearings. Cost under $15.
If you made one for the rear bolt holes, you could probably hold the bike at the rear.

Last but no least, 2 jack stands on the footpegs - easy if you have fixed peg rearsets, not so sure about stock pegs.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 11:03 PM
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put the bike on a rear stand and take a scissor jack under the oil drain bolt. loosen the eccentric bolt and raise the scissor jack till the pressure is off of the bolt, then remove, flip and tighten. the whole event took 6 minutes to do on my '15.
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