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Old 04-25-2011, 04:08 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Apex Bars write up with pics

Here is my write up/eval on the Apex bars.
Picked them up for $189, they are now $219.

Needed a 36 mm socket $15 for the center steering nut
need a Torx 55 $4, for the bar end weights
You will also need a torx 25, 15 and 8, and a variety of others so a complete set of torx bits should be in your repetoire

Overall the Apex bars are very well manufactured. They are nice and solid and very adjustable, but they do have some fitment issues on the s1k which are noted below.

Removal of the stock clip ons is not that bad. You have to remove the top triple tree with the 36 mm socket. Torque to 88 ft/lbs, 120 nm when you put it back on.


Loosen the pinch bolts that hold the triple tree to the fork tubes, clip ons and the bolt for the brake reservoir


The clutch and throttle sides are both held on with screws that go through the bar. These are Torx 15 (I think)


The throttle housing has small screws like the one shown (this is the clutch side - don't loosen this side) that are hard to get to. You need a torx 8 with a long narrow shaft.



I would recommend removing the top triple tree and then each clip on before trying to access the undersided torx 8 screws. Once you get the clip ons off getting to these small screws is much much easier.

Take note of the hole positions in the clip ons. They are in different locations.


You will need to reroute the throttle and wires (pics below) before putting on the Apex bars.

Once the Apex bars are on, I encountered a little problem with the fork tubes raking forward and I couldn't line up the center nut. This problem was solved by bumping the front tire up against a wall to slightly push the fork back in place. A friend helps here.




Here is where the fitmet issues were noticed, continued....

Last edited by ThePod; 04-27-2011 at 02:15 AM.
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Old 04-25-2011, 04:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
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In this pic the downtube just clears the side of the triple tree and the brake line comes up against it so you can't rotate down any further. I was happy with the placement of the brake so that wasn't a big issue, but did take me some time to figure out.



If you position the right angle of the Apex bars at the level of the top triple tree you can't rotate the bars



The throttle cables need to be routed to the outside of the fork tubes


I had to reroute the left sided wiring as well


Here is the position I chose for the bars


The right and left sides just clear the fairing at full lock





Overall I'm quite happy with the position, the bars are raised about 1 inch and back about 1/2 inch, they are probably about 15 degrees flatter. I can move them down for the track, but I doubt that I will do that as I like the position and thing it is good for both street and track.

Once positioned there are no issues with how they work after my 70 mile test ride, but as I said there was a bit of fiddle factor to get things in the right spot.

Keep in mind that you have to drill out the Apex bars to get the fastening screws through. Measure twice and cut once. If you want to change the position of the switch gears you will have to redrill both sides. I ended up having to redrill twice. Where I put the bars the left sided screw was drilled through the hollow part of the bar while on the right it was solid aluminum. Not a big deal but if you don't take your time and do it right you will snap a few drill bits (ask me how I know).

Also unless you want to glue or epoxy a big nut inside the end of each bar the stock bar end weights will not work. Either get some aftermarket ones or figure out how to epoxy a nut in there. I may do this, but haven't yet.

Last edited by ThePod; 04-27-2011 at 02:26 AM.
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:18 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I just install mine this weekend also. If you look at my pictures in the post below I put the bars in a different orientation (closer to the LSL's I had). No rerouting of cables necessary if you go that route.
Heli v apex v lsl?
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:54 AM   #4 (permalink)
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DO NOT take the switch gear housings apart to remove them from the bars. It voids the warranty on them. Just remove the long screw that secures them to the bar and then turn it a little bit to access the small cover on the back side--the one that covers the wire looms. Remove that cover and then remove the wire looms from the plug-ins. There are no tabs to push/pull just gently pull them--they may need a little more than gently. The whole switch gear housing can now be removed. Slide it off the bar. It may feel a little tight at first but that is because there may be some tape under the switch gear on the bar to make the switch gear "fit" better on the bar--no slop.
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That is for the clutch side, you have to take apart the throttle side housing because the screw holding it to the bar is inside.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePod View Post
That is for the clutch side, you have to take apart the throttle side housing because the screw holding it to the bar is inside.
+1 that is correct
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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My bad.
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Old 04-26-2011, 05:37 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Nice writeup i tried fitting the Driven Clipons but found they would not allow full left to right movement with std fairing,i will try them again when i fit my race glass
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Good install guide, and very detailed, thanks.

It looks to me that the position you chose (or were limited too), looks very similar to the Helibars position. Therefore negating any further adjustment benefit gained from the Apex's. Though the Apex's are less expensive.

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Old 04-27-2011, 02:06 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Partially true, I lower them, but the bar has to be at a 90 degree angle to the clip on. I can push them back and forward by rotating the clip on. Additionally the Apex bars allow for angle adjustment of the bar itself. Kinda hard to explain, but it's shown well here.
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Last edited by ThePod; 04-27-2011 at 02:09 AM.
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