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What it takes to install an Akrapovic Exhaust, or Most Any Full System...

110K views 149 replies 70 participants last post by  bennymx 
#1 ·
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We did This install a little while ago.

And Since there are a lot of DIY kinda of guys on here, we thought we share the experience.

Our choice for a full System was the Akrapovic Evolution Full Titanium w/ Carbon Hex.
Some guys like the Baby CZ shorty canister.
But, we prefer the Traditional Hex Shorty Canister.
Plus, you can ONLY get the Carbon Fiber Canister in This option.
So that secured our decision.

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Some Quick Facts:

Stock Exhaust: 25 lbs 2oz
vs
Akrapovic Complete Evolution Titanium System - 8 lbs 9oz.

So, you get a nice 16 lb 5oz weight savings by retiring the Stock Exhaust.


First off, make sure you have some time. It's going to take the better part of an afternoon. :)

But, when your done, it's soooo rewarding.

If you have a work bench, that will make the job soo much easier having the bike about 2' off the ground.

We built our own Work benches many years back for racing, with about $25 worth of 2x6" 's and 1/2 Sheet of 3/4" plywood. Solid as a rock.

To start off, It's best to put your bike on a stand.
We like the VORTEX Stands, since they are Super Solid, have built in Axle Holders, Removable Handles.... and easy disassembly for convenient Travel and storage.


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Then Remove your Canister. Simple Nut/Bolt Combo for the canister bracket, and torx bolt on the clamp.
You can remove the exhaust all at once, but it's a little easier this way.



Our Bike has Attack rear Sets, and like most rear sets it has the adapter bracket for the stock exhaust.
We of course removed that.



.Next you have to remove the side Panels and bellypan.

You can either:
a) remove all the 30 + bolts, and each panel one at a time.
or
b) Remove just 4 bolts on each side near the badge holder, and 2 on each side under the nose ... , and remove all the panels in one clean sweep.


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Note there is ONE plug on each side that connects your front signals.
Be sure to release those before you go walking off with your panels.

It should now look like this.


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............... TO BE CONTINUED

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#2 ·
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Now, remove the Tank Panels and Front and Rear Seats.

There are 2 Servo motors on the bike.
One that is located just below the back of the tank. Shown here:


And One that sits on the FRONT Left side of the Frame.
Shown Here:


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These motors pull the cables that open and close the exhaust valves. You need to remove the cables from the servo wheels.. WITHOUT Turning the wheels. As many members have said before... do NOT Turn the wheels, or you will get an FI Light.
All you have to do is pop the cables out of the holders, which will give you enough slack to easily remove the cable. NO Tools needed for this step. Promise.

Then route the cables away from the bike, so when you lower the exhaust, they don't get hung up.

Next Remove both o2 sensors, from the stock exhaust.
Since we are installing a Dyno Jet PCV, we also unclipped them from the wire harness, as they will not be retained.
GOOD news... NO Warning light by doing this. :)
Keep them around just in case you want them later on.

Then remove the Radiator Bracket. (2 Clips, 1 screw)

Now remove all 8 of the Exhaust header bolts.
A long socket extension makes this much easier.

Once they are lose, you can remove them by hand.

Last step to take off the stock exhaust, is remove the 2 Exhaust bolts in the back, right above the Cat.

See Photo below:



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Now the Stock Exhaust is ready to be removed.

Take your time and slowly wiggle it free from the Motor.

After that is will pretty much just fall off.

Since it's 25 lbs, make sure you have a good hold on it.

Now that you have the stock exhaust removed and hanging on the wall out of the way, we can move to the new exhaust.

We highly recommend getting some new OEM Exhaust Gaskets like these. Sure you may not need them. But, It's Cheap insurance to make sure you don't have an exhaust leak. :mad:

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Coat One side of each gasket with some Exhaust Sealant, or Grease This is a little trick to keep them from falling out of the exhaust port once you remove your hand and begin to install the headers.



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This is where they may be a small variation from exhaust brand to exhaust brand.

Our Akrapovic Exhaust has separate manifold flanges, that you mount FIRST, and then slide the headers into the flanges and attach springs. This makes removing the exhaust very quick and easy. No Need to remove the exhaust header bolts.

So for the Akrapovic you install these flanges, and supplied springs as shown here:

Make sure you install the springs on the Flanges, BEFORE you screw them into the motor. Makes it much easier.

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To Be Continued....


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#3 ·
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The manufacture says to use their tube of gray exhaust compound for all the joints. This stuff is major messy. And gets all over everything.

For the past 25 years, we have always used teflon tape on our Exhausts, to prevent leaking. (yes, the same thing plumbers use to prevent leaking)..
And so far never had any issues. This also makes it very easy to slide apart if you ever have to in the future.

NOTE: This is Only OUR Personal preference. Nothing more.;)

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Since we are installing a PCV, and Auto tune, we took this time to screw in the WIDE BAND o2 Sensor into one of the bungs.
Dyno Jet swears they did a LOT of testing and found Both left exhaust bank and Right Exhaust bank are nearly identical, so no need to worry which one you choose

We chose the Right Side, because it was easier to route the cable along the right side of the bike.



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Next remove the cotter pin on back side of your REAR Passenger peg. and pull out the dowel, which will release your Passenger peg.

The peg has a Spring loaded ball detent. So make sure you also remove the metal sleeve with the Peg, to keep the ball in check.

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Kinda strange and cool, that BMW has a Built in HEX Pocket in the Stock Rear Passenger pegs, so you can install a Bracket to hold the aftermarket exhaust.


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Now, this is where WE vary from the directions.

Akrapovic says, install one header at a time. Then install the Collector, then the Link Pipe, then the canister.

We have installed over 100 Exhausts in our 25 + years of doing this.

And a majority have been Akrapovic.

WE prefer to pre-assemble the headers and collector, FIRST.
Then slowly, gingerly, install them on the motor.
For us, it's much easier that way.

That's just our opinion. You can try either way, to see what works best for you.


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TO BE Continued..............


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#4 ·
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So, once you have the headers attached to the Motor, You take the Springs, and Clip them onto each header pipe, as shown.

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Next, take your canister, and slide it onto the end of the link pipe.

Now, carefully, look over the exhaust and make sure everything is straight and even.

Once you have confirmed all looks good, take your canister band, and SLIDE it from the end can forward. It's carbon Fiber, so do NOT Try and open it big enough to come from the bottom. You WILL Snap it.
Start from the end, and just slide it forward. Use a tissue or paper towel to make sure you don't scratch your canister as you slide it forward.

Align the canister band with your bracket, and install the screw/Bolt Combo to secure your canister to the bracket.



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The exhaust fits great, and sounds awesome.

It has a db Killer Insert that can be removed with one small little bolt, if you prefer some more db's. :D

Overall it took us about 4 1/2 hrs. But, as always you learn so much about your bike, and how it works, and where everything is, makes it all worth while.

Stay tuned, We will have follow up soon, with some Sound clips, and of Course Dyno Charts.

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#5 ·
Great write up!

but if the Akro and the BST don't help you get the chicken strips off the tires nothing will! :p


J/p very nicely done!
 
#8 ·
After installing the full Akra system with the PC V and Autotune do you end up with any warning lights that remain on? I understand the servo issue but wanted to confirm that if you don't move the servos and install the full system that it will result in no lights? thanks
 
#9 ·
After installing the full Akra system with the PC V and Autotune do you end up with any warning lights that remain on? I understand the servo issue but wanted to confirm that if you don't move the servos and install the full system that it will result in no lights? thanks
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No warning light.

The ONLY reason you would get that, is if you Turn the Servo Wheel. (popular mistake).

When you disconnect the cables you just pop them out of the holders to release the tension.
A lot of guys think you have to turn the wheel to release the cable.

If you do that, then the light will come on.




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#12 ·
I have a full Leo Vince system, PCV and Autotune. After starting with an arrow full system map as a "baseline", I haven't seen the dramatic fueling reductions in the top end when I review the autotune trim tables that seem to be the case with the Akra, arrow etc. system maps.

My target AFR is set at 13.2 across the board and riding is exclusively at track days where the full power-band is being utilized

My question is how much of a factor ram-air plays in this...

I.e. are the big top end fueling reductions on dyno-derived custom maps possibly due to their inability to simulate effect of ram-air (something that the autotune can compensate for?) or is it just an artifact of difference in design between Akra, Arrow and my Leo system.

I haven't done a full custom map on my bike yet, but thought I'd ask anyway.

cheers
bryan
 
#13 ·
I have a full Leo Vince system, PCV and Autotune. After starting with an arrow full system map as a "baseline", I haven't seen the dramatic fueling reductions in the top end when I review the autotune trim tables that seem to be the case with the Akra, arrow etc. system maps.

My target AFR is set at 13.2 across the board and riding is exclusively at track days where the full power-band is being utilized

My question is how much of a factor ram-air plays in this...

I.e. are the big top end fueling reductions on dyno-derived custom maps possibly due to their inability to simulate effect of ram-air (something that the autotune can compensate for?) or is it just an artifact of difference in design between Akra, Arrow and my Leo system.

I haven't done a full custom map on my bike yet, but thought I'd ask anyway.

cheers
bryan
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Could be.

Ram Air will have an effect on the fuel mapping at high speeds.
Most Dyno Rooms only have a blower fan for cooling. Not to simulate 120mph speeds.


THat's another nice bonus of the Autotune. REAL WORLD MAPPING.


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#14 ·
I read through the write up a few times and decided I like the quiet, stealth version of the stock exhaust, till I heard "you need an exhaust" about the 15th time while riding with GSXR's, CBR...etc. I overcompensated and got the Akro shorty titanium from Hard Racing. The only thing I would add is to install the collector and the y-pipe together, then connect them to the header pipes even if they are already together(take apart and do it again), better fitment. HR did a great job on instructions and the Akro system is an amazing setup! The system is loud and completely against my stealth mode goal, but love it and would not change it ever! The blue flame a night is an added bonus:) Everything I have on the bike is from HR and they have exceeded my expectations, great support, great service and quick shipping.
 
#16 ·
I read through the write up a few times and decided I like the quiet, stealth version of the stock exhaust, till I heard "you need an exhaust" about the 15th time while riding with GSXR's, CBR...etc. I overcompensated and got the Akro shorty titanium from Hard Racing. The only thing I would add is to install the collector and the y-pipe together, then connect them to the header pipes even if they are already together(take apart and do it again), better fitment. HR did a great job on instructions and the Akro system is an amazing setup! The system is loud and completely against my stealth mode goal, but love it and would not change it ever! The blue flame a night is an added bonus:) Everything I have on the bike is from HR and they have exceeded my expectations, great support, great service and quick shipping.
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Thank you.

Greatly appreciate the Positive feedback. :)

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#15 ·
Good write up.

Having recently swapped out my system, I would make one suggestion to help those considering the project.
When you remove the 2 mounting bolts holding the converter up, you should also remove the 2 attached oval plates that hold the support bushings, too.
They are held on by two serated head screws /side.
This will allow you the extra room to push the converter body and headers forward so that the header pipes will clear the exhaust port/ studs more readily. This is even more critical if you did not remove the radiator/forks/wheel assembly as did Hard Racing on this installation. No point in struggling any more than you have too, IMHO.
 

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#17 ·
I installed a Taylor Racing setup on my bike. I noted you did not mention loosening the radiator. I did not think it would be necessary on mine, but those exhaust nuts are hard to remove with any wrench based on the proximity of the radiator. The other thing I want to mention was my greatest disappointment of the installation. When I planned to order the system, I checked the web sites about Autotune regarding installation, etc. I even called them, told them what I was doing and asked questions. The selling dealer also did NOT provide me with a key bit of information. The wide band sensor supplied with the Autotune will NOT fit the Taylor system. Apparently, this is made to replace the original diameter sensors which come stock. Autotune folks gave me ZERO satisfaction when I described what was going on. They told me an F1 sensor would work but would cost me $20K. A simple application note like the bung is supplied to allow use of the wide band sensor on some exhaust systems would be clear and helpful. Personally, I think this is a clear form of consumer fraud. As for the selling dealer, they won't take the parts back. I really don't know if I want to remove the system and weld the bung on. I think the whole situation is really stupid. I am sorry I purchased the Autotune. The people are arrogant and do not want to deal with weekend do it your selfers. It looks like they think everyone out there has significant apriori knowledge as to what it takes to make their system work. This was a nice post with the photos and I hope this writing states in black and white. Autotune will not work on all systems as easily as shown here. The people there are difficult to communicate with and offered me no satisfaction.
 
#18 ·
I installed a Taylor Racing setup on my bike. ........... The people there are difficult to communicate with and offered me no satisfaction.
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When you refer to "Them" or "Autotune" are you meaning... Dyno Jet.?

or the company that sold you the Autotune.

Because, the Autotune, is UNIVERSAL.
I don't think Dyno Jet advertises it will PERFECTLY FIT EVERY BIKE on the planet, with no mods. That would be Called "Plug-n-Play" .

Indeed, it would be nice if every Exhaust Manufacture, and OEM Manufacturer ALL used the EXACT Same size O2 Sensor.
Unfortunately, that's not the case.

While we understand your frustration. We don't think it's Dyno Jets fault, that their Universal Autotune, doesn't fit plug-n-play on all models.

Unless you saw them advertising that somewhere.?


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#20 ·
You are 100% Correct.

It would be a very good idea if they had a "Master List" of bikes / Exhaust they know it will fit.

Unfortunately, many of the Manufacturer have running changes, and don't tell anyone.

S1000RR is perfect example. Half the Bikes have the larger o2 Sensor hole, and half do not.

Akrapovic for example took that into account when they made their exhaust for the S1000RR, and their exhaust has BOTH a the Larger Hole welded onto the system and a smaller adapter for those whose bike didn't have the larger o2 Sensor.

It's a shame that Taylormade did not do the same. Then you would have no problem. :(

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#21 ·
that's why Dynojet supplies a sensor bung with every Autotune. Most exhausts do NOT come fitted with a bung to take a standard wideband sensor; you have to weld one in, and you have to weld it at a proper distance from the exhaust ports and it has to be at a certain angle.

question: is it really necessary to have a female torx socket to remove the headers, or can this be done with a 12-point 12mm wrench?

I'm taking my headers off tomorrow morning; just want to be prepared, and I hope that radiator wire holder thing doesn't take up too much time. Also hope that my stock O2 sensors are the type that have an adaptor; I can then just plug them up as I've got wideband plugs on hand. I've got a narrow window of time to do this job, and hunting around for screw plugs that will fit the stock narrowband thread and pitch isn't what I want to spend an afternoon doing.
 
#22 ·
that's why Dynojet supplies a sensor bung with every Autotune. Most exhausts do NOT come fitted with a bung to take a standard wideband sensor; you have to weld one in, and you have to weld it at a proper distance from the exhaust ports and it has to be at a certain angle.

question: is it really necessary to have a female torx socket to remove the headers, or can this be done with a 12-point 12mm wrench?

I'm taking my headers off tomorrow morning; just want to be prepared, and I hope that radiator wire holder thing doesn't take up too much time. Also hope that my stock O2 sensors are the type that have an adaptor; I can then just plug them up as I've got wideband plugs on hand. I've got a narrow window of time to do this job, and hunting around for screw plugs that will fit the stock narrowband thread and pitch isn't what I want to spend an afternoon doing.
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That's what D did on his headers.

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#32 ·
If you're installing the full Akra, you will likely be installing a PCV too. That being the case, you'll unplug the O2 sensor (electrical connection), and remove them all together... stock header goes, the stock O2 sensors go too. The Akra full system has accommodations for the stock O2 sensors. So if you weren't using the PCV, you could plug them (O2 sensors) back into the Akra and leave them hooked up.

Hopefully that makes sense.
 
#31 ·
I have an Austin Racing midpipe, which came with an extra wideband bung. Stock exhaust doesn't have one.
 
#39 ·
I'm about to tackle an Akra install this weekend. Have a few questions...

- What size female torx socket for header bolts?
- Can I remove the stock O2 sensors completely? (I am installing a PCV at same time as exhaust) or should I re-install O2 sensors into Akra headers?

Thanks!
 
#40 · (Edited)
I'm about to tackle an Akra install this weekend. Have a few questions...

- What size female torx socket for header bolts?
I used a closed end 10mm wrench to get them off... just cracked them loose, then spun them w/my fingers. You could do a 12pt. 10mm socket too.

If you want the actual socket designed for the nuts, it is a Female Torx, size E16.

- Can I remove the stock O2 sensors completely? (I am installing a PCV at same time as exhaust) or should I re-install O2 sensors into Akra headers?
Yes - remove the factory O2 sensors
 
#46 ·
Where do the 3 drain/vent hoses go when reinstalling the bodywork? I routed them down the sides and tucked them in between 2 fairing pieces, and routed them out the bottom of the belly pan. Is that right? I didn't pay any attention to them when taking it all apart.

Also... When I took the passenger peg off, mine is solid. There's no spot for the exhaust to bolt onto. Has anyone else run into this?
 
#47 ·
Where do the 3 drain/vent hoses go when reinstalling the bodywork? I routed them down the sides and tucked them in between 2 fairing pieces, and routed them out the bottom of the belly pan. Is that right? I didn't pay any attention to them when taking it all apart.

Also... When I took the passenger peg off, mine is solid. There's no spot for the exhaust to bolt onto. Has anyone else run into this?
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The hoses go out the bottom of the belly pan along the side, through the boxed off section, which keep them together from flopping around and touching the head pipes.

As for the Rear exhaust hanger... there is a Hiden Bolt hole with a nut capture behind the foot peg.

Pretty slick design.


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