What it takes to install an Akrapovic Exhaust, or Most Any Full System... - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
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Old 07-15-2010, 05:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default What it takes to install an Akrapovic Exhaust, or Most Any Full System...

.
We did This install a little while ago.

And Since there are a lot of DIY kinda of guys on here, we thought we share the experience.

Our choice for a full System was the Akrapovic Evolution Full Titanium w/ Carbon Hex.
Some guys like the Baby CZ shorty canister.
But, we prefer the Traditional Hex Shorty Canister.
Plus, you can ONLY get the Carbon Fiber Canister in This option.
So that secured our decision.

.

.

Some Quick Facts:

Stock Exhaust: 25 lbs 2oz
vs
Akrapovic Complete Evolution Titanium System - 8 lbs 9oz.

So, you get a nice 16 lb 5oz weight savings by retiring the Stock Exhaust.


First off, make sure you have some time. It's going to take the better part of an afternoon.

But, when your done, it's soooo rewarding.

If you have a work bench, that will make the job soo much easier having the bike about 2' off the ground.

We built our own Work benches many years back for racing, with about $25 worth of 2x6" 's and 1/2 Sheet of 3/4" plywood. Solid as a rock.

To start off, It's best to put your bike on a stand.
We like the VORTEX Stands, since they are Super Solid, have built in Axle Holders, Removable Handles.... and easy disassembly for convenient Travel and storage.


.

Then Remove your Canister. Simple Nut/Bolt Combo for the canister bracket, and torx bolt on the clamp.
You can remove the exhaust all at once, but it's a little easier this way.



Our Bike has Attack rear Sets, and like most rear sets it has the adapter bracket for the stock exhaust.
We of course removed that.



.Next you have to remove the side Panels and bellypan.

You can either:
a) remove all the 30 + bolts, and each panel one at a time.
or
b) Remove just 4 bolts on each side near the badge holder, and 2 on each side under the nose ... , and remove all the panels in one clean sweep.


.


.
Note there is ONE plug on each side that connects your front signals.
Be sure to release those before you go walking off with your panels.

It should now look like this.


.




............... TO BE CONTINUED

.
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Old 07-15-2010, 05:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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....

Now, remove the Tank Panels and Front and Rear Seats.

There are 2 Servo motors on the bike.
One that is located just below the back of the tank. Shown here:


And One that sits on the FRONT Left side of the Frame.
Shown Here:


.

These motors pull the cables that open and close the exhaust valves. You need to remove the cables from the servo wheels.. WITHOUT Turning the wheels. As many members have said before... do NOT Turn the wheels, or you will get an FI Light.
All you have to do is pop the cables out of the holders, which will give you enough slack to easily remove the cable. NO Tools needed for this step. Promise.

Then route the cables away from the bike, so when you lower the exhaust, they don't get hung up.

Next Remove both o2 sensors, from the stock exhaust.
Since we are installing a Dyno Jet PCV, we also unclipped them from the wire harness, as they will not be retained.
GOOD news... NO Warning light by doing this.
Keep them around just in case you want them later on.

Then remove the Radiator Bracket. (2 Clips, 1 screw)

Now remove all 8 of the Exhaust header bolts.
A long socket extension makes this much easier.

Once they are lose, you can remove them by hand.

Last step to take off the stock exhaust, is remove the 2 Exhaust bolts in the back, right above the Cat.

See Photo below:



.

Now the Stock Exhaust is ready to be removed.

Take your time and slowly wiggle it free from the Motor.

After that is will pretty much just fall off.

Since it's 25 lbs, make sure you have a good hold on it.

Now that you have the stock exhaust removed and hanging on the wall out of the way, we can move to the new exhaust.

We highly recommend getting some new OEM Exhaust Gaskets like these. Sure you may not need them. But, It's Cheap insurance to make sure you don't have an exhaust leak.

.


.

Coat One side of each gasket with some Exhaust Sealant, or Grease This is a little trick to keep them from falling out of the exhaust port once you remove your hand and begin to install the headers.



.

This is where they may be a small variation from exhaust brand to exhaust brand.

Our Akrapovic Exhaust has separate manifold flanges, that you mount FIRST, and then slide the headers into the flanges and attach springs. This makes removing the exhaust very quick and easy. No Need to remove the exhaust header bolts.

So for the Akrapovic you install these flanges, and supplied springs as shown here:

Make sure you install the springs on the Flanges, BEFORE you screw them into the motor. Makes it much easier.

.


.
..

To Be Continued....


.
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Old 07-15-2010, 05:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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.....


.....
The manufacture says to use their tube of gray exhaust compound for all the joints. This stuff is major messy. And gets all over everything.

For the past 25 years, we have always used teflon tape on our Exhausts, to prevent leaking. (yes, the same thing plumbers use to prevent leaking)..
And so far never had any issues. This also makes it very easy to slide apart if you ever have to in the future.

NOTE: This is Only OUR Personal preference. Nothing more.

.




.

Since we are installing a PCV, and Auto tune, we took this time to screw in the WIDE BAND o2 Sensor into one of the bungs.
Dyno Jet swears they did a LOT of testing and found Both left exhaust bank and Right Exhaust bank are nearly identical, so no need to worry which one you choose

We chose the Right Side, because it was easier to route the cable along the right side of the bike.



.

Next remove the cotter pin on back side of your REAR Passenger peg. and pull out the dowel, which will release your Passenger peg.

The peg has a Spring loaded ball detent. So make sure you also remove the metal sleeve with the Peg, to keep the ball in check.

.




.

Kinda strange and cool, that BMW has a Built in HEX Pocket in the Stock Rear Passenger pegs, so you can install a Bracket to hold the aftermarket exhaust.


.

Now, this is where WE vary from the directions.

Akrapovic says, install one header at a time. Then install the Collector, then the Link Pipe, then the canister.

We have installed over 100 Exhausts in our 25 + years of doing this.

And a majority have been Akrapovic.

WE prefer to pre-assemble the headers and collector, FIRST.
Then slowly, gingerly, install them on the motor.
For us, it's much easier that way.

That's just our opinion. You can try either way, to see what works best for you.


.

TO BE Continued..............


.
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Old 07-15-2010, 05:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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,.....



.


So, once you have the headers attached to the Motor, You take the Springs, and Clip them onto each header pipe, as shown.

.

.



.



.

Next, take your canister, and slide it onto the end of the link pipe.

Now, carefully, look over the exhaust and make sure everything is straight and even.

Once you have confirmed all looks good, take your canister band, and SLIDE it from the end can forward. It's carbon Fiber, so do NOT Try and open it big enough to come from the bottom. You WILL Snap it.
Start from the end, and just slide it forward. Use a tissue or paper towel to make sure you don't scratch your canister as you slide it forward.

Align the canister band with your bracket, and install the screw/Bolt Combo to secure your canister to the bracket.



.


.

The exhaust fits great, and sounds awesome.

It has a db Killer Insert that can be removed with one small little bolt, if you prefer some more db's.

Overall it took us about 4 1/2 hrs. But, as always you learn so much about your bike, and how it works, and where everything is, makes it all worth while.

Stay tuned, We will have follow up soon, with some Sound clips, and of Course Dyno Charts.

.
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Old 07-15-2010, 05:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Great write up!

but if the Akro and the BST don't help you get the chicken strips off the tires nothing will!


J/p very nicely done!
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Old 07-15-2010, 06:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You guys rock!

Please PM me price for that exhaust system.

You write up is greatly appreciated!

Michael
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Old 07-19-2010, 12:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMRRA#12 View Post
Great write up!

but if the Akro and the BST don't help you get the chicken strips off the tires nothing will!


J/p very nicely done!
.


We are working on those.


.
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Old 08-08-2010, 04:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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After installing the full Akra system with the PC V and Autotune do you end up with any warning lights that remain on? I understand the servo issue but wanted to confirm that if you don't move the servos and install the full system that it will result in no lights? thanks
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ping191504 View Post
After installing the full Akra system with the PC V and Autotune do you end up with any warning lights that remain on? I understand the servo issue but wanted to confirm that if you don't move the servos and install the full system that it will result in no lights? thanks
.
No warning light.

The ONLY reason you would get that, is if you Turn the Servo Wheel. (popular mistake).

When you disconnect the cables you just pop them out of the holders to release the tension.
A lot of guys think you have to turn the wheel to release the cable.

If you do that, then the light will come on.




.
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Old 08-08-2010, 10:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Great thanks. Do you have to do the PC Autotune? Can you just do a Power Commander V with a map?
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