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Quick Release seat pins: home made

18K views 43 replies 22 participants last post by  SlickWill 
#1 · (Edited)
So I saw a forum member recently sold his Evoluzione Quick Release Seat Pins and I decided to see if I could create my own for much less than the $25 price to buy them from Evoluzione. I'm not even sure Evoluzione is still in business since the website link in their thread http://www.s1000rrforum.com/forum/evoluzione-cyclesports/3766-quick-release-seat-pins.html doesn't seem to work and their last post was about a year ago.

So off I went to Lowes (hardware store chain in the US) with my seat in hand to make sure I get the correct diameter pin. I go to the specialty fastener section where they have drawers of all types of nuts, bolts, pins, etc. I looked in the "pins and hitches" drawer



and found this pin


Also found online here: Shop The Hillman Group 1/4 x 1-3/4" Zinc-Plated Cotterless Hitch Pin at Lowes.com that fit in the hole of the seat pan just fine.

I bought two for just a little more than $6 (tax included).

Back at home, I got out my tap and die kit Shop Kobalt 26-Piece Tap and Die Metric Set at Lowes.com and found the hex die 5m x 0.8 was the same thread/pitch as the screws that hold down the seat. I cut the pin to the same length as the seat screw (about 1”) and proceeded to grind down the shaft where I needed to make the threads since it was too thick as is. After grinding as smooth as I could around the pin shaft, I got to where it was just a little larger than the die to make the threads.



I clamped the pin in the holder and put the 5M die in its holder and began making threads.


In no time I had it done for both pins



and checked for fitment on the bike subframe. I put some locktite on threads and hand tightened them down with making a few turns to adjust them so the ball would clear the plastic tab of the seat pan when pushing the seat down firmly.



All for less than $7 (not including the cost of tap and die set which I already had).
 
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#4 ·
It takes a little work to pull the seat off the pins. When researching for pins, I was hoping to find a pin with spring loaded balls on each side of the pin to ensure a firmer "lock" but I'm actually surprised at how firm the seat is secured even with the one spring loaded ball on each pin. It takes a good firm pull on the seat to get it over the pins. If I had to guess, probably 2-4lbs of force to pull up the seat over the pins. A casual bump or brush on the seat won't cause it to pull over the spring loaded ball in each pin.

The only minor issue is fitting the seat down on the pins since there's not much room for wiggling the seat down over the pins. You have to apply some force to push the seat foward towards the tank to get the plastic tabs on the seat pan to line up to push down on the pins. It's a minor nusiance in my opinion and worth it.

If I get a chance in the next few days, I may go buy another set of pins and do another set and take photos of my progress along the way. At the time, I wasn't thinking about the Do it Yourself Mod, but now realize it would benefit the rest of the forum to have more detailed pics of the process.
 
#7 ·
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Great Post, and great idea.

If your really going to sell them.. at least make a few bucks for your time.

The Cutting and grinding and tap and die has to got to take you at least 20-30 min ?

Or even better, find a local machine shop to do like 100 of these for you.

If you do enough of them, they probably cut you a deal.



.
 
#10 ·
Optional, more secure seat pin idea.

So I get to thinking about the ends of the pins I cut off that have the holes in them from the ring attached to the pin, and think those ends could be used for an optional, more secure seat pin that requires a cotter pin to push through the hole once the seat is fitted over the post of the pin. So, I grind down those ends and create the same 5M x 0.8 threads as I did on the spring loaded ball ends. I check for fitment to make sure the holes through the pin clear the plastic tab on the seat pan. I didn’t have any cotter pins on hand to actually test it out, but think it’s doable. As you all know, it’s challenging enough to push the seat pad foam out of the way to get to the OEM screw, so this option probably will require using needle nose pliers to get the cotter pin behind the seat pad foam and through the holes. However, I do think this will be easier than getting the OEM screws in/out of the seat pan. Here’s a pic of the ends with the holes and threads I created:



All you need to get in addition to this mod is a cotter pin from a hardware store like this:
Shop The Hillman Group 2-Count 1/8 x 1-1/2" Zinc-Plated Cotter Pin at Lowes.com

Or even one of these pins:
Shop The Hillman Group 4-Count .035 x 5/8" Zinc-Plated Hair Pin Clips at Lowes.com
 
#11 ·
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LOL.. you're a lot like us. Always looking to make better design
Wife calls it BASF, like the company... "we don't make the product .. we make it better"

your original idea is better. the point is to be able to easily install and remove the seat
when you add into the equation cotter pins and pliers you go away from the KISS factor.

 
#14 ·
Too funny! That's something 007 would want should Mr Bond own the S1000RR! I could "dumb it down" and go with a miniture manual garage door latch that you turn a handle on the top of the seat and it pulls the pins! Then again, where would that said handle be? Ummmm...probably in a place that wouldn't be too comfortable!

In all seriousness, it would likely be prudent to connect both cotter pins together with a small tie (string, wire, cable) to prevent loosing a pin into the depths of the battery tray should you loose grip.
 
#26 ·
I've since learned the 2012 seat has a smaller diameter hole in the seat pan for the screw. So any of you 2012 owners that want to do this should take your seat pan to the hardware store and find the correct diameter pin that'll work for your seat.
 
#29 ·
dang it. I want this sooooooo bad. Motovation doesn't sell it anymore. I don't have a drill press, or a vice for drilling. I would buy one for $25 so fast, just because it irritates me so much to take the seat on and off.
 
#31 ·
what's taking so long? just kidding, excited because I'm cleared hot, for VIR South course Sunday, ANNNNND I getz to do North Course Monday!

Then NCBike Aug 23rd, such a great wife, caring, considerate and easygoing. "Sure, go, that's why you bought all those parts for it, what's stopping you?" - you, "no I'm not, go have fun, it's great weather for it"

Must remember all camera accessories, this time!!!!!

With 4 track days booked and paid with TPM, I only need 1-2 more by the end of the year to break even on 2015 Membership. Whoooooop-

I had forgotten all about this thread, it was from back in the days when I lurked, and it was going to be one of the first things I was going to do when I got the 2014, in 2013. Need the Kindergarten directions, when you git 'er dun, SRO, please.
 
#35 ·
I fully agree that the seat screws are awkward. But why are you routinely taking off the seat so that quick release is needed? I have taken the seat off twice; to install battery charger leads and to install the connector for a tank bag. Just curious.
 
#37 ·
Agree that these are a pain and I've had my seat of probably 8-10 times in the first 4 months....finally replaced mine with stainless Allen heads. Not ideal, but now I can get a long T handled Allen Key in there and get it seated (OEM pieces were nearly stripped) and not have to worry about pulling back on the seat foam with my free hand. It's not as good as the quick release solution, but far better than OEM
 
#43 ·
Pics in OP thread are not showing.

Any ideas what pins to use for 2015? I remove the seat often and the OEM screws are a PITA.
 
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